New RGS owner. Thankyou!

[darmahsd]

Good morning folks,

I'd like to introduce myself. I have been a long time Italian bike lover and lurker on this forum. I have had quite a few Ducatis, Moto Guzzis and a Benelli Tnt 1130 triple at one time. I have always wanted to try a Laverda triple as I also love my old Triumph Trident triple. I live in Portland Oregon and recently traveled up to Bellingham Washington and met forum member Galen. I purchased his lovely silver RGS and it was a great pleasure meeting him and his wife. I wish to thank all of the members of this forum for all the great info and insight into all the different laverda models that you folks discuss. The bike is in wonderful shape and I have been riding it a bit and I think I am going to commence on a few upgrades and maintainence items. The RGS has all the same running gear as my 82 Ducati Darmah such as wheels, brakes, suspension and switch gear. I have made up a list at the moment of the following:
-new Avon tires.
-rebuild brake calipers and install steel braided lines.
-remove exhaust and get headers and Y pipe ceramic coated.
-new fork seals and progressive fork springs.
-clean up sandcastings and polish alloy cases.
-change spark plugs and oil.

It is quite amazing as all the wiring looks brand new and Galen already upgraded the ignition and coils. These bikes are quite the beasts when you are puttering around but once up to 80 miles and hour and above it all makes great sense! I'll keep you updated on my progress and thanks very much to all. Paul Gustavson

 

[Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond]

Looks great in Silver

 

[Eurocycleguy]

Welcome Paul.

 

[piranha-bro2]

Very clean and tidy looking RGS, Paul. Welcome to the breed (the missing link?)

 

[Reunited Chris]

Welcome Paul,
It's always good to see new members and Laverda's on the list.
I've never been keen on progressive springs on Laverda's due to their weight. I find the progressive section of the spring is too weak and and is used up in setting the ride height. My preference to achieve progressive springing is by controlling the amount of oil in the front forks.
For what it's worth, I would invest in a set of Race Tech springs and then set the oil height in the forks.
Springs out and forks fully compressed oil level from the top 150mm for a plush feeling and down to 120mm for a firmer sporting setting.
The air gap over the oil acts as a secondary spring and as it decreases due to fork compression its pressure increases creating a progressive spring rate.
Others may disagree but at the end of the day it's your choice.

 

[TeddyG]

Looks great Paul- where are you in Portland as I am also and bought a 750SF a few months ago on BAT

 

[Andy]

Nice work Paul.
I agree with Chris above about progressive springs. I actually still run my original springs and spent my money on emulators instead, “Sports Valves” in my case, although RaceTech also do some that are highly regarded. Transformed the front end, can’t recommend it enough.

P.S., don’t mention your tyre choice, unless you want your thread hijacked

 

[darmahsd]

Thanks very much folks for your input and suggestions. Yes, Andy and Chris I will give the stock springs with the oil levels you suggest a try. I did convert to the race tech emulators with my Darmah front end but it was pretty involved as some parts had to be fabricated to make it work. Which were the emulators that you used Andy? Wolfgang has suggested springs that he sells manufactured in Germany. I live in Northwest Portland Teddy; right off the 405. Congrats on your purchase!

I was hopeful someone could give me insight into the removal of the right side alloy front sprocket/hydraulic clutch cover? I want to take it off to inspect the front sprocket but I don't know if various loose parts may be in there upon removal to actuate the clutch pushrod, etc.? The service manual doesn't seem to have any steps on this.
Thanks!

 

[Andy]

Thanks very much folks for your input and suggestions. Yes, Andy and Chris I will give the stock springs with the oil levels you suggest a try. I did convert to the race tech emulators with my Darmah front end but it was pretty involved as some parts had to be fabricated to make it work. Which were the emulators that you used Andy? Wolfgang has suggested springs that he sells manufactured in Germany. I live in Northwest Portland Teddy; right off the 405. Congrats on your purchase!

I was hopeful someone could give me insight into the removal of the right side alloy front sprocket/hydraulic clutch cover? I want to take it off to inspect the front sprocket but I don't know if various loose parts may be in there upon removal to actuate the clutch pushrod, etc.? The service manual doesn't seem to have any steps on this.
Thanks!

You can whip the sprocket cover off, no problem. If you replace the sprocket and the new one is tight, use heat, not a hammer
I got the 38mm Marzo kit (and fork caps so you can adjust the damping without disassembly) from here: https://sportsvalve.com/
They supply replacement damper rods so no drilling/soldering required, just chuck’em in with some 5w oil and enjoy
You may need to adjust your spring rate (I.e. cut a coil or two off your springs) or adjust the length of the spring spacers for sag, depending on your measurements, although it was all about right for me without changing anything else (80kg).
http://www.racingsuspensionproducts.com/ have a spring calculator that is useful.
If you want to know more about setting up the suspension check this out: https://www.fastbikegear.co.nz
Cheap guide that I still find invaluable as a novice

 

[Ventodue]

Good stuff there, Andy - thanks.

 

[darmahsd]

Hey, thanks much Andy, I'm going to remove that cover today. I looked up your link for the sport valves and I think that is in my future. I was disappointed in the racetech set up as it turned out not to be plug and play on my Darmah.
I have taken apart a bit of the bike and have been working on stripping and repainting the center of the brake rotors back to the original black and rebuilding the calipers. Have removed the fork stanchions and replaced the fork seals . I have also removed the headers and y pipe and sent it all out to be ceramic coated. I was wondering if anyone would recommend trying to replace/convert the heavy drive chain to a smaller gauge? Thankyou very much for the help.

 

[TeddyG]

Nice looking Darmah Paul,

Ronnie gave me the name of a private tire changer I'll try today for my BT46s. I'm looking into replacing the heavy solid rotors w/ lighter stainless.
Considering new shocks and fork valving.

 

[henrywillms]

Many convert the chain to 530, some to 520. Wolfgang sold 530 sprockets and chain, still may. A search should give you the info you need.

 

[The Sock]

I was wondering if anyone would recommend trying to replace/convert the heavy drive chain to a smaller gauge? Thankyou very much for the help

Definitely!
The 630 chains are horrible, IMO, and unnecessary.
A modern 520 is more than up to the job, but a bit of a fiddle to get/make the sprockets.
530 sprockets are available off the shelf and with an O-ring chain a vast improvement on the 630.

 

[darmahsd]

Yes, it looks like a new chain/gearset is on my list; I soaked it in kerosene and it looks like new but yes it does seem like overkill!

I took off the fairing and gas tank and was hopeful Andy or any other RGS members of the forum could give me some info concerning fuel fill ups. There is a breather tube that comes out of a fitting at the top front of the tank and goes to a reservoir in the fairing. I replaced this line as it was previously spliced with two pieces of hose. I am a bit concerned looking at this whole arrangement as the fitting from the tank to the breather tube is almost directly over the ignition components; yikes!
If that fitting were ever to leak while you're riding; man flame on......anyway; when you're filling up at the gas station with the gas nozzle on automatic shut off, I am wondering how high of a level the tank gets filled to? Does the fuel go partly up the filler neck so also into the breather tube and towards the expansion tank in the fairing? or does it only fill to the top of the tank itself with some air space left over?
I know this is an odd question but it would help to know if this has been ever an issue for an RGS owner.?? thanks much.











1

 

[Vince]

I don't think you will get an answer from Oz owners, our Petrol Station hoses have an auto cutoff when the tank is full but they also require a hand squeeze to flow all the time. Release your hand squeeze and it stops the flow immediately so you cannot just stick it in and walk away while it fills automatically. But it's still a good question as to where that cutout happens. If you think about a car fuel tank they have maybe a mitre of thick hose connecting between the actual tank and the filler connection and I guess that's also full after you fill their tanks. Just as a comment I have seen pumps where you can set a Dollar amount there the pump stops but I have never used it. Another comment, every now and then I see videos of people in the USA driving around with ripped-off Fuel Station hoses danging out of their car after auto filling and driving off forgetting to take that hose out, that is pretty impossible to happen in Oz. We fill, then pay after but if you don't put the hose back they won't let you pay till you do that, but never say never.

 

[Andy]

Yes, it looks like a new chain/gearset is on my list; I soaked it in kerosene and it looks like new but yes it does seem like overkill!

I took off the fairing and gas tank and was hopeful Andy or any other RGS members of the forum could give me some info concerning fuel fill ups. There is a breather tube that comes out of a fitting at the top front of the tank and goes to a reservoir in the fairing. I replaced this line as it was previously spliced with two pieces of hose. I am a bit concerned looking at this whole arrangement as the fitting from the tank to the breather tube is almost directly over the ignition components; yikes!
If that fitting were ever to leak while you're riding; man flame on......anyway; when you're filling up at the gas station with the gas nozzle on automatic shut off, I am wondering how high of a level the tank gets filled to? Does the fuel go partly up the filler neck so also into the breather tube and towards the expansion tank in the fairing? or does it only fill to the top of the tank itself with some air space left over?
I know this is an odd question but it would help to know if this has been ever an issue for an RGS owner.?? thanks much.











1

Yes, fuel goes up the long filler neck, more so if you’re on side stand. I wouldn’t be too worried about fuel leaking onto the ignition coils, unless your HV insulation is broken, especially now that you’ve replaced the hose to the expansion tank. Don’t make that hose too long, by the way, otherwise it’ll kink.
Oh and you’ll find the filler cap leaks, I haven’t arranged a solution for that yet, I just try not to go around right hand corners or use the brakes until the tank’s half empty

 

[Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond]

That piece of hose is clear on my bike so that I can see when the tank is full - I filled it one morning and the bike sat in the sun for a couple of hours ( bearing in mind it’s black ) the fuel started to piss out of the fuel filler so now I never fill it any further once I see fuel in the clear pipe

 

[darmahsd]

Thanks for the replies; it is appreciated. I see now that I should have replaced the vent tube with clear; that is a good way to check what is going on there. And I will remember to only make left turns after a fill up!

 

[1200ts]

The chain conversion to 520 is not always a good idea. Although the 520 chain is more than strong enough the sprockets wear faster as you have less surface area the chain contacts. For a touring bike you intend to put miles on, I would go with a 530 chain.

As for the fuel tank, I fill it up as much as I can, up to the very top. Regardless of how much you fill it, the filler cap is guaranteed to leak under braking. Even fitting a brand new fuel cap I purchased in Italy, they still leak. Once the tank is less than 3/4 full it won't leak. And by the way the next issue you will notice is the fuel gauge is completely useless as it was designed for an automotive shaped fuel tank and not a motorcycle. And as you can't look in to the fuel tank due to the filler neck, always zero the odometer when you fill it up.