Newbie jetting questions

Here is a link to that Honda Big 1, I like the look of that tank. Small world, that's the bike one of the Sydney blokes used the bank of 4 CV Kehan Carbs to make 3 sets of carb kits to fit Laverdas maybe 20 years ago. One of Marty's bikes still has a set fitted. At 34mm I think they were the biggest CVs he could find in the bike wreakers.

https://ridermagazine.com/2014/05/02/retrospective-honda-cb1000-1994-1996/
 
Am i confused here? Wouldn't screwing the dipstick in to measure oil lever result in a LOW fill? Or does the angle on a triple cause an overfill? Twins have a vertical thread/dipstick.
 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
Am i confused here? Wouldn't screwing the dipstick in to measure oil lever result in a LOW fill? Or does the angle on a triple cause an overfill? Twins have a vertical thread/dipstick.
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Too much hard cycling I fear  :-X
No dipstick I know of gets screwed in to check the oil level, only push in ones like cars etc. The angle of course will give a far higher level than vertical.
I had a CBX owner who had interpreted the "run motor for several minutes before checking oil with the dipstick" as checking it with the motor idling.
 
this is how I do sump plug repairs if their is the opportunity, so far about four of, the thread is formed in the "top hat"  alloy insert, before it is welded to the sump, guaranteeing the thread is square to the top hat face. The thread length is about 50% longer than stock and the plug made for it is using all of it. I have done it several other ways that work, including the 16mm size without grief, but not easy, and a BSP taper thread that still works even  if pissed ( it was!) because its the thread that seal not the hex face.
CLEM
 

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Some nice welding on that plug repair, Clem, wish mine looked like that. So I think I'll try the long plug for now and not attempt any re-tapping or helicoiling until the engine is out.  I need to build up a list of reasons to pull it first.  Of course if it drops its oil on the garage floor any day soon then that will be motivation enough.

I flipped the clocks round and cleaned things up yesterday - looks better now and cable routing hugely improved - just a need a new face for the tach and looks like they're available.  How easily do the clocks come apart I wonder?

Also need RHS controls - twist grip and switches.  See the attached of what it looks like now with non-working cruise-control and nasty universal kill-switch thing.  Together they make it a 2-handed start every time because my thumb doesn't reach.  Weren't the original ones shared with Suzukis? Any idea where to look for a set?

By the way if I'm doing this wrong and wandering off-topic too much ("jetting questions") then please let me know.

Richard



 

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:) always best to start a new thread - this will soon go way off track and you will get no useful answers to anything  :)
 
Id leave the tach face alone,
Its a more realistic red line and the same colour and age as the speedo face.
Save your money for more important stuff.
Clock mounting bracket should not have the holes through the face by the way, but thats neither here nor there.
Wolfgang has replacements.
cheers
Tom
 
Hi Richard , nice bike with a lot of the hard to get original stuff still on it. Throttle assembly is the same as Ducati darmah and bevel heaven have them, in your neck of the woods. Re the clock bracket you could get it welded up andr illed and recapped by a good machinist. Have the same tacho face on my 80 Jota and as Tom said a more realistic redline😀👍 Have a look on google images and you will see quite a few pic?s of 81 Jota with the later RGS type fork lower?s so maybe correct😀 The fork?s do appear to have been swapped around as the axle nut is normally on the left side of the bike of the bike, somebody with more knowledge will correct me if I?m wrong😂 Good luck , it looks like a good project
Tom
PS I have a really nice serie?s 2 tank if you need one, I?m in OZ😀👍
 
Hi Tom and Tom, that's a really good point about the redline being realistic on the current gauge-face, so I'll leave it.  I just ordered the Dell'orto re-jetting parts, seal-kits and throttle and am feeling poorer, so that helps.

Yes the clock mounting bracket has been drilled out - I do have an unmodified one but it doesn't fit around the steering stem nut - I guess with the proper Jota bars it would be raised up and clear the nut that way - picture attached that maybe explains what I mean.  I should probably find some real bars and their mounts sometime.

That's an interesting point about the forks maybe being reversed - the calipers being behind the forks is maybe another pointer to that? I've definitely seen pics of both and haven't worked out how things evolved yet.

Paul, thanks for the Suzuki info - got one on order now.

-Richard

 

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Paul Marx said:
Nut should be flat.

Paul
Click to expand...

Nope.

Marzocchi dome nut is about 20mm high.  Hex looks a bit big though, 30mm iIrc.  Unless the top yoke has been modified, the pictured bracket should fit fine.

To check if the fork legs have been reversed, the axle SHOULD be inserted from the RH side.  If it isn't, legs have been reversed.  No worries, but spacing shouldbe CAREFULLY checked in this case!

piet
 
index.php


axle goes in from left according to the pic
 
sfcpiet said:
Nope.

Marzocchi dome nut is about 20mm high.  Hex looks a bit big though, 30mm iIrc.  Unless the top yoke has been modified, the pictured bracket should fit fine.


piet
Click to expand...

Spot on Piet, top clamp has had the handlebar mounting ground off.
This is what it should look like.
 

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Don?t know about the handlebar mounts being ground off. Also top nut looks weird, almost as thought it is a flanged nut😳Maybe the top yoke was a flat one like Ducati used?
Tom
 
sfcpiet said:
Nope.

Marzocchi dome nut is about 20mm high.  Hex looks a bit big though, 30mm iIrc.  Unless the top yoke has been modified, the pictured bracket should fit fine.

To check if the fork legs have been reversed, the axle SHOULD be inserted from the RH side.  If it isn't, legs have been reversed.  No worries, but spacing shouldbe CAREFULLY checked in this case!

piet
Click to expand...

Yes, I stand corrected.
Haven't touched a Marzo forked bike in donkeys.

Paul
 
Thanks for the close-up top clamp picture.  That explains it then, i don't have the handlebar clamp bases on mine.  I don't think they've been ground down so it must be a clamp from a different Marzocchi-equipped bike.  My clock mounting plate has been modified (or of course it's a clamp from a different bike..) to remove the top-clamp radius for the handlebars (see side-shot attached) and also re-radiused to clear the nut - which is tall and has a hole through it, I suppose for the tank-breather tube on a different bike. I'm not crazy about the top clamp having been drilled in 4 places to accept the 4 clock-mount screws either.  I need to contact this Wolfgang!

The front axle is definitely inserted from the left on this bike. how much should I worry that it's wrong? I'll take the wheel off and look at spacing as Piet recommends.  Does it matter that the calipers have swung around?  I can't think of a reason why it would, but...

Also just sorting through the parts stash and cannot identify the mystery piece in the attached pic.  Anybody? (Edit: ohh suddenly it looks like lockstops..)

Thanks to all for the help - the jets will be here next week and I promise to get back to jetting issues asap.



 

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