No Spark after Washing

I believe it is a 1980 registered series 1 as the ignition is on the RHS and there is no round lump on the LHS casing.

I traced the power through all live points so at resistors, coils, the 7 way chocolate box connector and the plugs on the BTZ units.

Will check the output pulse tomorrow - thanks
Thanks for confirming series 1, and your checks for 12v supply.
It is a very good idea to bypass the resistors to ensure coils get a full 12v on them.

Would be worth checking the earthing arrangement from the BTZ boxes...the brown wires run to an earth and I can't remember its location...rear mudguard?? It is also the earthing point (with green wires) from rear light and daytime headlamp relay if fitted to your bike.

Apart from the very unusual simultaneous fault of two pickup coils failing I can only suggest checking battery volts when cranking. The BTZ boxes won't work if the volts collapse markedly...can't remember an exact figure 10/10.5v??
 
My 3c hit 8v from a first indicated 12.5v on the dash-mounted voltage gauge and bearly spun and wouldn't start last Saturday, I had fully charged it the day before. it Bump started fine and started easily all day after that. Time for a new battery for me. It was 6c on the first start. I was asked why I was parking with it aiming downhill though.
 
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Higher comp twins now run very well on 8s and will kill 9s regularly.

Paul
Sounds like things have definitely changed since fuels have gone unleaded. happy to be corrected as I haven't had one of my own bikes running for nearly 20 years. Having said that I rebuilt an SF1 and ran it in and did several tanks worth of fuel on it running B9s - no probs, but could be Australian fuels?
 
Sounds like things have definitely changed since fuels have gone unleaded. happy to be corrected as I haven't had one of my own bikes running for nearly 20 years. Having said that I rebuilt an SF1 and ran it in and did several tanks worth of fuel on it running B9s - no probs, but could be Australian fuels?
No idea about Australian fuels. Once running, it depends on how you ride. Low revs will foul plugs of course.
I came to the conclusion that my S needed warmer plugs and a friend who has a 1970 SF that was killing plugs on start up was advised to go from 9s to 8s by van Dijk who knows his Laverda motorcycles. Van Dijk incriminates modern fuel.

Paul
 
Fitted a new set of plugs in hope if not expectation and all sparking nicely - lesson of the day do not doubt the experts!

At least I have got to know the bike and it's wiring a bit better.

I did buy a set for the GT as well so they will be going in tonight.

Thanks for all your help.
 
If it killed all 3 plugs at once something caused that, either you left the choke on when it started too long, it needs to be off ASAP, or the choke rubber tips are hard and leaking or the choke is either hanging up or the air filter is way too restrictive or its jetted way to rich
 
It had been started probably 6 or 7 times but only done 2 miles I total. A bit of water probably also stopped it starting and that finally killed the plugs. Will take it for a proper run and see what they look like.
 
Fitted a new set of plugs in hope if not expectation and all sparking nicely - lesson of the day do not doubt the experts!

At least I have got to know the bike and it's wiring a bit better.

I did buy a set for the GT as well so they will be going in tonight.

Thanks for all your help.
Good news.
Dead plugs are high on the list of ignition troubles nowadays.

Doubt everything and everybody, particularly experts.

With modern fuels, plugs do not like choke, particularly if a touch cold. And they don't like fuel additives which are unnecessary.

Paul
 
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It had been started probably 6 or 7 times but only done 2 miles I total. A bit of water probably also stopped it starting and that finally killed the plugs. Will take it for a proper run and see what they look like.
One thing i've learnt is that they don't like to be started and left to idle on the choke, its a sure way to kill plugs ,if you're going out for a ride on a cold bike give it some choke to start and then ride off immediately and turn off the choke within a 100 yards or so, if its set up right the bike wont need it after that.
 
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