No spark diagnostics

The failure happened all of a sudden if I remember correctly. This indicates no issue with the map/curve but more an issue with a connection or the box itself. Who did the wiring of your bike, please? I would highly recommend to replace any relay that is not absolutely necessary (keeping lights or signal horn relays in place for the moment). That is a fairly to do thing, you just need to unplug two wires and connect them per relay...

Checking the "pickups" or what ever signal giving device you have down there at the crank is wise to do, too, if you can for 100% sure take ignition switch, kill switch and bad earth connection from your check list. Devil is in the details sometimes with faults that only appear from time to time...
 
So just having got the drivers installed I can see the chip now exists.

However the software doesn't recognise the unit, and I've tried v88, v80 and v75 just in case it was a version thing.

20170102_184712-2016x1512.jpg


Now we're really having fun  :D
 
"No connection with pc" means either that the ignitech box isn?t powered up or the lead to the laptop isn?t connecting. The box needs power and earth before you will get anywhere, the pin number designation is available from Ignitech website. These ignitions are extremely simple in isolation. My advice to you is to connect the Ignitec box with jumpers to + and minus, do the same for the coil outputs and triggers, thereby isolating the lot from your bike?s spaghetti, but be very careful not to short any of the pins as they are very close together, I use clipped bits of cardboard between jumper clips when I do this. If you get no life out of it then, it will be a fucked unit. The software and curve choice will be the same as when it stopped regardless.
 
Tippie said:
"No connection with pc" means either that the ignitech box isn?t powered up or the lead to the laptop isn?t connecting. The box needs power and earth before you will get anywhere, the pin number designation is available from Ignitech website. These ignitions are extremely simple in isolation. My advice to you is to connect the Ignitec box with jumpers to + and minus, do the same for the coil outputs and triggers, thereby isolating the lot from your bike?s spaghetti, but be very careful not to short any of the pins as they are very close together, I use clipped bits of cardboard between jumper clips when I do this. If you get no life out of it then, it will be a fucked unit. The software and curve choice will be the same as when it stopped regardless.
Click to expand...

The box has a 12v supply, I've checked.

I've also confirmed pin17 has the 5v reference. (I was measuring it incorrectly before)

So power is not the problem, but cant connect to the unit, or get a spark.

 
OK I finally have a connection to the unit. I was perhaps starting up everything in the wrong sequence. Will post a screen grab shortly.
 
So there's an error when I try and read the box, hopefully that will.mean something.

Also can test a couple of the coils but not the third.

I'm going to take this offline and take it to some wise folks who know what I should do from here.

20170102_204555-2016x1512.jpg


 
To a newbie like me this is all very entertaining, frustrating and baffling.

Let's hope it doesn't all end in tears.

Ex military so was instilled in me to K.I.S.S

 
harpmeister said:
To a newbie like me this is all very entertaining, frustrating and baffling.

Let's hope it doesn't all end in tears.

Ex military so was instilled in me to K.I.S.S
Click to expand...

We might have passed K.I.S.S a way back  ;)

That said I'm delighted to discover what was hiding under the seat apart from all that wiring!

So back to button clicking, when I click the various Ignition buttons I was getting a small spark from the first two but now I just get a dull click on Ignition 1 from the device in the centre of the photo and no clicks frtom the coils 2 or 3.

normal_20170102_211921-2016x1512.jpg


I know it seems frustrating but its always great when you can make a small step, and being able to read the unit I'm confident we'll be able to trace the issue now.

 
cbertozz said:
So there's an error when I try and read the box, hopefully that will.mean something.

Also can test a couple of the coils but not the third.

I'm going to take this offline and take it to some wise folks who know what I should do from here.

20170102_204555-2016x1512.jpg
Click to expand...

You might want to change your motorcycle type to "Laverda 3 x 180" but then I know f/a about Ignitec or computers. Might also explain why you can't test the third coil. You ain't got one.
 
There is no map to be read, just gives me an error when it tries to read the unit.

I'm wondering whether the loose earth has caused the unit to loose it's programming - a bit like pulling the mains socket on a computer or improperly ejecting a flash USB drive can.
 
cbertozz said:
There is no map to be read, just gives me an error when it tries to read the unit.

I'm wondering whether the loose earth has caused the unit to loose it's programming - a bit like pulling the mains socket on a computer or improperly ejecting a flash USB drive can.
Click to expand...

Is that the chip telling you you have a 120 degree crank or the software. If it is the software you need to select "Laverda 3 x 180" under the Motorcycle Type heading at the top left. If it is the chip I don't know how the bike ever ran.
 
So back to button clicking, when I click the various Ignition buttons I was getting a small spark from the first two but now I just get a dull click on Ignition 1 from the device in the centre of the photo and no clicks frtom the coils 2 or 3.
Click to expand...

The device in the centre of the photo is the starter relais. When you are able to engage it by the igniton box, there must be something truly fucked up with your elecktrickery. Wouldn't be surprising, given the messy looks of it. :-X

 
and no clicks frtom the coils 2 or 3
Click to expand...

Clicks from the coils?  You may be able to hear a sparkplug clicking if it fires, coils don't click.  The starter relay - the box with the heavy duty leads in your picture - should click as it operates and your motor should turn over wether it starts or not.  Do the instructions tell you how to run a test firing to make sure the coils are connected/working properly?  Witt and IIS certainly do.

Not beng funny, but if you didn't recognise the starter relay then perhaps you should pass the rewiring job on to someone who has more experience of these things. 
 
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