No spark diagnostics

cbertozz said:
Were you once in politics? Very good with the one-liners  :D
Click to expand...

Unlike politicians my one liners have a modicum of truth.

Try this, just out of interest. Disconnect one of the trigger wires from the ignition box to a coil, doesn't matter which. Connect your voltmeter into the circuit (ie one lead to the trigger ire and the other to the connector pin on the coil) and crank the bike over and see if there is any voltage passing through the circuit. Do the same with the other trigger wire and coil.
 
Not many of us relish dealing with mysterious electrical faults.  It's a shame you managed so few miles on the bike before the problems started.  Oh, and put Ron on your ignore list, you'll be happier at once... :D
 
Davo said:
Unlike politicians my one liners have a modicum of truth.

Try this, just out of interest. Disconnect one of the trigger wires from the ignition box to a coil, doesn't matter which. Connect your voltmeter into the circuit (ie one lead to the trigger ire and the other to the connector pin on the coil) and crank the bike over and see if there is any voltage passing through the circuit. Do the same with the other trigger wire and coil.
Click to expand...

The trigger wire from the ignition comes is the orange one that goes to the right coils. There is a red wire that carries the current over to the left coil.

If I unplug either left or right and inset the multimeter in the circuit I see 14v which drops when I crank the engine.

Scratch that ....standby

Sorry Green and Yellow wires are trigger wires.

When I put the multimeter in circuit with the trigger wire (yellow) it shows 0.4v - in fact, the green one does too. When I click the test ignition buttons on the Ignitech software the current changes to 142mV and then thereafter it drops to 138.8mV, and jumps back to 142mV every time I hit the test button.

When I hit the starter it drops to a negative fluctuating figure.

Couple of other things I've noticed:

1. Only the coil with the Yellow wire clicks when I hit the ignition button, even though they both receive the same voltage from the trigger wire.
2. I've noticed that the light inside the alternator is on. Probably just didnt notice it before as the cover was on.

Anyway after this nudge I've gone back to the trigger wires from the ignition and checked coming out of the box, then after the grey plug, and then at the coil.

Both green and yellow are carrying 14v at the box and even up to the box side of the connector.

After the grey connector the Yellow still has 14v but I can't get it from the green, and by the time they are at the Coil they are both just o.4v.

The fact that Yellow still has current at the connector and that is the one coil that will slightly test click is one clue, green not at all.

So it seems like that connection and part of the harnress may be dud, although god knows how.


Rubbish, didn't remember which way the current was flowing, both green and yellow have 14v at the coil terminal.

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Wiring is a mindfuck but not impossible.
If I can do it anyone can, quite literally!
But finding faults is another thing. Find a good auto electrician, money well spent.



 
It's troubleshooting but you need to understand what every component is supposed to do. So I completely understand why members have been say bypass this or that. I'm getting there. Bloody box not working that time was stupid kill.switch.
 
So have bypassed relay for ignition, the power is coming straight off the batter to the coils. Same click / no click situation as before.

So NO relay or fuses in the way, nor kill switch.
 
We have spark!!  :o

I don't have the guts to turn it over and wake up the missus and disturb the neighbours so will have to wait until tomorrow to know for sure.

So assuming the relay was the issue, then what should I wire to the kill switch wire.
 
Why not take the switched connections off the apparently faulty relay and join 'em together...terminals 30 and 87 (not 85 and 86 which supply the relay coil)
 
So, if the relay to the kill switch was cooked, how were you measuring 12v between the kill switch and the coils?
 
Rob said:
Why not take the switched connections off the apparently faulty relay and join 'em together...terminals 30 and 87 (not 85 and 86 which supply the relay coil)
Click to expand...

Yep did that, wondering if I need to have a fuse somewhere in the equation?

I'm wondering why the relay was the problem. Power was coming in from kill switch lead and from the fuse box (so off another battery connection) was there too much running through the relay? (There was one red wire from fuse, one orange from kill switch and one orange he wire to coils, and that dodgy earth. The relay was hot when I removed it.

The ignition buttons in the software now both emit an audible click and I have noted spark from the plugs

Anyway hopefully it's "fixed" in as much as I have to tidy up the wiring. Trip to Jaycar tomorrow AM.

 
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