Now available neutral switch kits 750 , 1000/1200 models

- here's one that Alan currently has available...
Dear a14rgs, many thanks for your suggestion regarding eBay; I've made contact regarding that second hand item. I'm also looking at a NEW replacement item from Germany via 'ocTeam'. Their new replacement item is cheaper than the one on eBay, but needs a modified 19mm box spanner to install it (the original part uses a 17mm Hex). Thanks again.
 
Dear a14rgs, many thanks for your suggestion regarding eBay; I've made contact regarding that second hand item. I'm also looking at a NEW replacement item from Germany via 'ocTeam'. Their new replacement item is cheaper than the one on eBay, but needs a modified 19mm box spanner to install it (the original part uses a 17mm Hex). Thanks again.
Keep us updated, please.
The replacement from OCT sounds interesting and I know that others will be keen to see more information too.
You still have the secondhand genuine part available as an alternative too.

Alan 👍😊
 
I realise this string about the supply of a Neutral Switch for Laverda 1000 is some years old now, but I am having difficulty sourcing one for my 1981 (180) Jota. Do you still have any available? I'm in Southampton.
Hi, I'm in Southampton to, been looking into the neutral switches myself... There non existent unless you want to pay £100 for one on motalia.
Anyway I ve ordered a switch same 14 x 1.5 thread Hopfully have some luck with it when arrives. May be we could catch up some time there can't be many of us laverdas around here.
Regards Keith
 
Hi, I'm in Southampton to, been looking into the neutral switches myself... There non existent unless you want to pay £100 for one on motalia.
Anyway I ve ordered a switch same 14 x 1.5 thread Hopfully have some luck with it when arrives. May be we could catch up some time there can't be many of us laverdas around here.
Regards Keith
Alfa romeo switch works
 
check if it's coming from between the engine and the switch or from the center of the switch. If the later, you can take it out, clean it with brake cleaner and apply some glue between the housing and the plastic as well as between the housing and the center contact (both on the side that is NOT going into the engine!!). should fix it.
 
Or let it leak and fix a cover to the bottom. Like in the picture. I fixed mine with glue, and it stopped leaking for a couple of years, and then it started leaking again. Now I have the cover, and the oil stays in.
 

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Pain in the arse if you stall at the lights too. Gotta shift back into neutral before you can re-start.

Also makes the bike practically unrideable if you break a clutch cable (need to start in gear to get off the line). I'd rather not re-wire the bike just to get home when a clutch cable breaks, which has happened to me on several occasions over the years.

I've never blown up a starter motor, and quite frankly I can't see how locking out the power supply to the starter when the bike is in gear achieves anything. The sprag clutch prevents the starter motor being driven by the engine. If you hit the starter button with the engine running, so what? The starter motor won't spin fast enough to catch up to engine speed and engage the sprag clutch.

On those rare occasions when the sprag has seized and destroyed the starter motor, I very much doubt it was caused by hitting the starter button whilst riding the bike.

The clutch interlock for the starter on my 'modern' bike annoys the crap out of me too. The starter will only work if you pull the clutch lever - even in neutral, which pisses me off.

As you can guess, I'm not a fan of idiot-proof interlocks. I don't like machines that do the thinking for me. I already know that I shouldn't press the starter while cruising along the highway. I don't need a set of relays to tell me that.

I don't like automatic transmissions for the same reason. Don't get me started on automatic windscreen wipers, headlights, etc. It's the thin edge of the driverless vehicle wedge.

End of rant. Sorry.
My 750 blew up the starter. I will never forget the noise it made turning for a second with somehow very high revs. The starter clutch conected with the starter during the ride. But it wasnt for shure the starter switch. Some of the rolls inside the clutch might have made the conection. The starter had dents from inside out. Very impressive look.
I changed clutch and starter and never again had any problems. Changing the rolls and the springs of the starter clutch from time to time is a good thing anyway.
 
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