Oil flow around 750 head

sfcpiet said:
Personally, I've never had a chain fail on me. Know of several others though, especially one cheapskate that pieced a chain together from several left-overs. Found 3 spring clips in that one, nearly whipped him with it, I was that mad. He cost us half a day on a fairly tightly-scheduled trip.

One other memorable failure was after taking first place at Hockenheim with the H-D Sprortster in 1995. Unloaded the van Monday morning, started the bike to ride it up the ramp into the workshop, bloody chain snapped half-way up! Michael had won by about 30 seconds to second place, he could have coasted the last 500 metres! But we stopped using spring clips from there, I had about 5 chains of different lengths and a bag of rivet links for gearing changes.

IWIS chains used the outer plate to secure the clip itself. After assembly, with the outer pressed on, the plate was forced in the other direction to secure the clip, this worked extremely well. I also use this method on any other chains with tight-fitting outer plates.

piet
Click to expand...
The only chain related problem I've ever had was the outer plate on a spring clip split in half vertically.
I rode gingerly the 15 km home from work.
Paul
 
I have had spring clips wear down to razer blade thickness on Dirtbikes, I guess plastic chain guides plus chain lube and sandy conditions caused that. I avoided lube on O-ring chains for that reason.
 
Never broken a chain, almost always use spring link. Once lost the spring clip though, local dyno guy noticed it was missing! But as it was a quality press-fit side plate it stayed on. Went through a stage of putting orange RTV over the plate and clip to make it obvious and easier to check. Always do the backing-off thing to anchor the clip,
 
My chain has a split link and spring clip - the outer plate is a tight fit and I fiddle around with a g clamp and a small socket to press it on.

So the suggestion is once the spring clip is on you press the plate back until it is tight against the spring clip to stop the spring clip moving?
 
Like any other clip pressed out of sheet steel, the chain spring clip has a sharp edge and a rounded edge.
The sharp edge should be to the outside.
Only takes a second to look closely before fitting it.
 
To increase friction, the slight lip stops full contact. I never thought of that with spring clips. I have a habit of pulling that lip on washers towards the inside mostly for aesthetics. I love hearing other perspectives and learning new stuff.
 
Vince said:
To increase friction, the slight lip stops full contact. I never thought of that with spring clips. I have a habit of pulling that lip on washers towards the inside mostly for aesthetics. I love hearing other perspectives and learning new stuff.
Click to expand...
When building gearboxes, I always look at which way the load comes on circlips and place the sharp edge to resist that load.

Washers don't generally use the edges as a register so you're using them correctly.
 
sfcpiet said:
After assembly, with the outer pressed on, the plate was forced in the other direction to secure the clip, this worked extremely well. I also use this method on any other chains with tight-fitting outer plates.

piet
Click to expand...
That's a clever idea. I can easily do that as added security. But i'm actually more concerned about a loose gearbox sprocket than a chain joining link coming apart of its own accord.
 
Back in the day, these types of clips were pretty loose and easy to fit, the only tension I remember was squeezing the Orings and that put pressure on the spring clip part. Makes sense if the outer plate is that tight the pushback from the O rings doesn't happen and levering the backing plate back puts pressure on the clip.
 
When I bought my first Laverda (a 1200 triple), I rode it around for a couple of days before I discovered that there was no spring clip on the connector link of the drive chain. The side plate was only held in place by crusted on gunk.
 
GregT said:
Like any other clip pressed out of sheet steel, the chain spring clip has a sharp edge and a rounded edge.
The sharp edge should be to the outside.
Only takes a second to look closely before fitting it.
Click to expand...
Interesting. I have always had the view that the rounded edge fits better into the groove and so have it facing outward. I am sure that is how they were fitted at the factory from new. Camchain links the same.
 
I think circlips and split links are different. I always have the sharp side out with circlips but don’t worry too much about split links. Never had either fail.
 
Dellortoman said:
When I bought my first Laverda (a 1200 triple), I rode it around for a couple of days before I discovered that there was no spring clip on the connector link of the drive chain. The side plate was only held in place by crusted on gunk.
Click to expand...
Pretty common Cam. The old #630 chains were wide buggers, the clip could easily be shrugged off if incorrectly fitted when passing by the crankcase, lots of contact markings to be found there.

I've found the Whale brand tool to be extremely easy to use for riveted chains, dead reliable and durable. Downside is that different sizes are required for different chains/pin sizes. Only extra tool required is a sizeable hammer, we've all got one of those. ;) Not very practical for roadside use, meant for the workshop when replacing chains.


www.tecbike.de

Chain separating tool Chain riveting tool Whale 50

Professional tool from WHALE 50 for pitches 520, 525, 530, 532 Only for full rivets! Note: This product is not assigned to a specific vehicle - please check if this item…
www.tecbike.de www.tecbike.de

piet
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top