Online SF Manual?

O

olly

Senior member
My dad's got my BSAs back together and is going to look at the LOUD knock on my SF1 750. He loves a 'Haynes ManuaI' and wants to learn a bit about the Laverda before fiddling. I bought a copy of the 'Green book' some time ago that I have safely on my bookshelf 50 miles from him....doh!

So, does anyone have a scanned SF1 750 (or close) manual of sorts or a URL to one or something so he can look at to get a handle on the basics please?
 
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olly said:
My dad's got my BSAs back together and is going to look at the LOUD knock on my SF1 750. He loves to a 'Haynes ManuaI' and wants to learn a bit about the Laverda before fiddling. I bought a copy of the 'Green book' that I have safely on my bookshelf 50 miles from him....doh!

So, does anyone have a scanned SF1 750 (or close) manual of sorts or a URL to one or something so he can look at to get a handle on the basics please?
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Lot's of stuff can be found here: https://www.laverdamania.net/technical.htm
Unfortunately I didn't find a manual on the web - but the link should help for a start.

Cheers
Jo
 
olly said:
Thanks for the pointers guys
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Tell your dad to check for any play in the camshaft flange assembly (a super-common cause of nasty knocking noises in the 750's). Remove the left cover to expose the tacho drive, wrap it with something to protect it then grip it well with vice grips and rock the crank back and forth with a socket and bar on the starter side, looking for any movement at the crank that doesn't translate to movement at the cam. Note, this won't reveal play in the RH cam flange. To check this, remove the right cam end cover and do the rocking thing with the crank and look carefully for any play (ie non movement) in the cam end.

The cause is a loose interference fit between cam flange and cam - note that the key is for location ONLY and does not secure the cam assembly ... this is the job of a tightly pressed-up cam-to-flange fit.
 
Olly, I have a "Laverda 750 Operation Maintenance and Parts Manual" which appears to cover pretty much everything you'd need to know. It's a 4MB pdf file. Rather than post it as an attachment here (I don't even know if I can do that), send me a private message with your email address and I'll email it to you.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
Tell your dad to check for any play in the camshaft flange assembly (a super-common cause of nasty knocking noises in the 750's). Remove the left cover to expose the tacho drive, wrap it with something to protect it then grip it well with vice grips and rock the crank back and forth with a socket and bar on the starter side, looking for any movement at the crank that doesn't translate to movement at the cam. Note, this won't reveal play in the RH cam flange. To check this, remove the right cam end cover and do the rocking thing with the crank and look carefully for any play (ie non movement) in the cam end.

The cause is a loose interference fit between cam flange and cam - note that the key is for location ONLY and does not secure the cam assembly ... this is the job of a tightly pressed-up cam-to-flange fit.
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I've passed the message on thanks - how do you repair something like that I wonder
 
olly said:
I've passed the message on thanks - how do you repair something like that I wonder
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Easy repair. Drop the motor, remove the head, split and remove the cams, remove the loose flange/s, press on new or undersize ones; installation is the reverse of the dismantling procedure. (don't you love manuals that run that friggin line!!!! :mad: )
 
Before doing anything so drastic as dropping the engine, have him check that the crankshaft sprocket nut is tight. That can be done with only the removal of the clutch side cover and placing a bar between the crank and clutch sprockets so he can lean on the crank end nut holding the primary drive sprocket. Early in my SF2 ownership I did not do that nut up tight enough and was amazed at the knocking noise it made till I snugged it up.
 
Will ask him to check sprocket nut first then flanges.
Wouldn't I need to get the camshaft ground to make it round and a particular size again?
We've got an air-powered impact wrench - pretty sure I've read on here that locking using a bar between the teeth risks a tooth snapping off and that the inertia of a gun (maybe in gear with the brake on?) is enough.

Your comment about being amazed at the knocking noise rings true - this is a proper loud heavy "DONK!!" from what I recall.
 
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Yes, use the impact wrench on the lh crank nut. Or an appropriate locking tool for the primary.
Do not put anything between the gears.

Remember that taking off the primary cover involves dismantling the ignition, therefore checking timing on reassembly.

In case of a broken cam linking rod, it's not a question of grinding the cam but a question of undersize flanges or as Phil Todd suggested, nickel coating the flange or cam end so as to gain some thickness. It's the interference fit between cam and flange that holds the thing together.

Lastly, a buggered big end also goes "donk".

Paul
 
Well said Olly. The clutch sprocket is very brittle and teeth snap easily. If it is loose you will detect movement just rocking it backwards and forwards in gear.
if the cam flange is loose you will see the cam snap forward (end covers off) as you turn the engine over
 
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Paul Marx said:
Remember that taking off the primary cover involves dismantling the ignition, therefore checking timing on reassembly.

In case of a broken cam linking rod, it's not a question of grinding the cam but a question of undersize flanges or as Phil Todd suggested, nickel coating the flange or cam end so as to gain some thickness. It's the interference fit between cam and flange that holds the thing together.

Lastly, a buggered big end also goes "donk".

Paul
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I'm pretty sure the timing is a problem anyway - I'll get him to check TDC for sure as I could never get it running smoothly. I've got new carbs to put on at some point too.
 
I stand by the suggestion that without the factory tool (you should borrow it from the club's tool loan scheme) it's reasonable to lock the primary with a suitable device between the sprockets but certainly not if you're going to use a powerful impact wrench! While the factory tool engages two holes in the crank sprocket to prevent it turning, not all the sprockets had those holes for the tool and so if the engine was not in the bike allowing use of the brake and transmission to prevent the clutch hub turning or no partner was there to stand on the brake then some means of preventing the crank turning was necessary.
When I was a just-out -of-college, underpaid wage slave mechanical engineer I had no easy access to air tools or long torque wrench and with only that one bike for daily transport, else walk, take the bus or train, I used a piece of alumin(i)um sheet cut to fit between all three rows in the root circles of the sprockets judging that it would flex, deform or otherwise fail long before the sprocket teeth when leaning on the nut with a socket and long tube handle - no breakage of teeth was encountered.
Of course your mileage may vary!
 
arancia said:
... so if the engine was not in the bike allowing use of the brake and transmission to prevent the clutch hub turning or no partner was there to stand on the brake then some means of preventing the crank turning was necessary.
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I’ve never liked the idea of doing that. It over-stresses the entire drive train and has the potential of wrecking the gearbox.
 
Dellortoman said:
I’ve never liked the idea of doing that. It over-stresses the entire drive train and has the potential of wrecking the gearbox.
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Couldn't do it with my back brake anyway!! But do agree with Cam. Have used the ally bar between sprocket teeth before but that was back in the 80s when I didn't know any better. Didn't break any teeth off tough.
 
Ditto, Rob ... a bit like fuel taps, eh - we dodged the bullet :cool:. Except last time I did it I did lose one tooth off the clutch sprocket. I'll be going the impact driver route if I can find something decent that I can afford (240V Makita would be nice. I have a compressor so maybe can find a pneumo one. Not something I'll use more than once in several years ... Grays auctions have De Walt 18V ones, but by the time you add the battery and charger to the skin, their low prices don't look so flash!
 
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