Online SF Manual?

How hard is the 750 one? Can it be drilled with a carbide bit? Failing that I make one that grabs the teeth in two or three places. Ot just use an\ ig thumpin' impact driver
 
Use a rattle gun. If it's something you'll only use occasionally, just get a cheap eBay one. I think my pneumatic rattler was around $70 about 15 years ago and it does the job well enough. Prices don't seem to have changed much since then. If anything, they've got cheaper. I've actually used mine way more than I thought I would and so far it's been pretty reliable.
 
I had to buy and use a pneumatic impact wrench and impact rated socket for a long series of blows today to remove the ignition timing rotor nut from a Zane' 668 where there's no access to the primary till you get that rotor and the clutch cover off and holding the crank with the rear brake wasn't practical on my own. The (D)PO had let that rotor get extremely corroded (no sealing gasket on its cover by design?) and so I'm sold on the value of such a tool and won't be using a jamming plate between the sprockets in my Breganze primaries any more.
I was working on the retrieval of the steel dipstick that had fallen out of its plastic cap into the clutch side and was the reason PO sold me the bike as he'd been afraid to start it with that length of steel floating around somewhere in the primary transmission case. Another design flaw? We'd tried without success to fish it out with a magnet. I bought the bike for parts but have decided it should be a learning exercise for my older son who has now decided that he'd like a motorcycle despite scorning all my toys previously though today he was too busy to help, perhaps we'll get there when the motor runs?
 
Pneumo impact sounds good. I'll get onto it - do they need to have adjustability for torque or do you just leave it doing its thing on the nut until it can't move no mo'?
 
They usually have adjustability, but unless it's calibrated you don't know what torque it's making. Mine has a knob you can turn to 4 positions. They're just labelled 1, 2, 3, 4 with no indication of torque. The info that came with it didn't give much of a clue either. I think it said the thing would do 240Nm max on setting 4. I doubt it'll actually do that, but I've not tested it against a torque wrench. Setting 1 is not much more than hand tight, so I guess 2 and 3 are somewhere in between that and whatever the max is. Actual torque probably depends on the air pressure anyway. I prefer to use a torque wrench for anything with a specified torque. For the Jesus nut on a crank, I've rattled them up on the max setting of the rattle gun and never stripped a thread. I don't sit there rattling away for 10 mins though. Just a few seconds until the nut stops turning.

You'll find the rattle gun handy for things like wheel nuts on your car (lug nuts for our yank friends). That's if you ever do things like rotating the tyres around or changing brake pads yourself. The rattle gun has the nuts off in seconds. It's way easier than giving yourself a hernia with a wheel brace. Especially if the last person to put the wheel on was a tyre fitter with a rattle gun. Those guys rattle them up to the max so they're almost impossible to undo by hand. Good luck trying to change a tyre on the side of the road with the crappy little wheel brace that comes in most car tool kits after some gorilla in a tyre shop has put the wheel on.
 
Dellortoman said:
They usually have adjustability, but unless it's calibrated you don't know what torque it's making. Mine has a knob you can turn to 4 positions. They're just labelled 1, 2, 3, 4 with no indication of torque. The info that came with it didn't give much of a clue either. I think it said the thing would do 240Nm max on setting 4. I doubt it'll actually do that, but I've not tested it against a torque wrench. Setting 1 is not much more than hand tight, so I guess 2 and 3 are somewhere in between that and whatever the max is. Actual torque probably depends on the air pressure anyway. I prefer to use a torque wrench for anything with a specified torque. For the Jesus nut on a crank, I've rattled them up on the max setting of the rattle gun and never stripped a thread. I don't sit there rattling away for 10 mins though. Just a few seconds until the nut stops turning.

You'll find the rattle gun handy for things like wheel nuts on your car (lug nuts for our yank friends). That's if you ever do things like rotating the tyres around or changing brake pads yourself. The rattle gun has the nuts off in seconds. It's way easier than giving yourself a hernia with a wheel brace. Especially if the last person to put the wheel on was a tyre fitter with a rattle gun. Those guys rattle them up to the max so they're almost impossible to undo by hand. Good luck trying to change a tyre on the side of the road with the crappy little wheel brace that comes in most car tool kits after some gorilla in a tyre shop has put the wheel on.
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I don't think most tyre fitters would be doing that these days.
Maybe each state has different laws but around here it would normally only happen if a garage rotates tyres as part of a service or some such and tyre fitters don't like it one bit.
Tyre fitters (at least in QLD I'm sure it's a law) have to use a torque wrench to ensure correct torque on final tighten. Not sure why this doesn't also apply to garages where a good rattle is still common. (Perhaps it's not actually law, maybe just good practise:unsure:?)
Had to pick up my son's car from the tyre fitters recently and they were not happy with how tight the nuts were because the wheels had those stupid narrow access "security" nuts which require a thin walled socket (easily broken). They said to make sure to tell the mechanics next time to not use a rattle gun when they rotate the tyres................ (although I don't think he'd had it in for a service since previously at the tyre fitters - and we had a bit of to and fro about that!!!)
 
My 1st road bike was a brand new 65 BSA Lightning with a blown piston own by a chap from Toronto - I was a farm hand on the 13th concession in Inisville working my Uncle's sheep farm (I'm sure you Auzzies can relate to that ;o) when I saw her leaning against the wall of local corner garage on HWY 27.

I ask the owner of the corner gas station to provide me with telephone # of the owner. I fixed that Lightning for nothing on provision I could ride her for the rest of the summer - I was 17.
 
Dellortoman said:
Actual torque probably depends on the air pressure anyway.

You'll find the rattle gun handy for things like wheel nuts on your car (lug nuts for our yank friends). That's if you ever do things like rotating the tyres around or changing brake pads yourself. The rattle gun has the nuts off in seconds. It's way easier than giving yourself a hernia with a wheel brace. Especially if the last person to put the wheel on was a tyre fitter with a rattle gun. Those guys rattle them up to the max so they're almost impossible to undo by hand. Good luck trying to change a tyre on the side of the road with the crappy little wheel brace that comes in most car tool kits after some gorilla in a tyre shop has put the wheel on.
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Air volume is also a big factor for rattle gun power. A thin or very long air hose reduces the effectiveness.
For many years I have always seen mechanics spinning wheel bolts/nuts on with the rattle gun but finishing them by hand but never seen one using a torque wrench. We change between winter and summer wheels here, every car has two sets, so it is a regular job changing wheels, and I always have copper paste on the threads.
 
In Germany, they do use torque wrenches, but most of them use them wrong...
a) I doubt they "relax" them (adjust them to 0 Nm) after usage => they will not be a correct after short time
b) they "click" every screw several times, and not gently but with a lot of force => most of the screws are overtightened
 
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