Primary chain noise?

Dellortoman said:
But beer and humour are always welcome.  :D

You actually like having a drunk sitting in the corner laughing at you while you pull an engine down? You Tassie guys are just weird  :o
 
I started stripping the motor down today. Figured I'd take as much as I can off the sides of the engine while it's still in the frame and held nice and firmly at a convenient height (on the bike lift). Got as far as that 36mm nut behind the alternator/ignition and came to a halt. I'd forgotten that was there. I don't have a 36mm deep socket, so I guess the next job is to make one.

Hmm ... how do I bore a hexagonal hole  ::)
 
With a hexagonal drill bit, silly, everybody knows that. You might not need to, though, the front axle gland nut on VWs is 36mm with the axle sticking through it. Try your local automotive tools place looking for a VW gland nut tool (the one I've seen is actually a tube spanner). You need a depth of about 8.6 cm. You CAN make an extra deep socket almost 1 cm longer by boring it on a lathe, it's not like you're going to be using it every day for the rest of your life.
And it's a LEFT HAND THREAD!

Ken
 
Cam,

I have used a tube spanner to remove that nut - I think it came from the plumbing section at the local Hardware House (before it became Bunnings). A little bit bodgy but it worked.

bazzee
 
I made a deep socket from a standard 3/4" drive 36mm socket parted off between the Hex and the square drive and then welded in a short section of 40nb pipe between the halves. Then used a 3/4 to 1/2" adapter and a rattle gun.
 

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Thanks for the tips, but you're all too late. It's done now  :D

I made a tube spanner out of a piece of galvanised water pipe (about 35mm ID). Cut 6 slots in the end, bashed it into a 36mm hexagon shape and welded up the slots again. Welded a big old nut on the other end and used a socket and rattle gun on the nut. Half an hour to make the spanner. 3 seconds to whizz the nut off.

I could have sworn I had a 36mm socket (bought it when I had a VW - as Ken said, then axle nuts are 36mm) and I was intending to do exactly what you did AJ, but I couldn't find the socket. I probably lent it to someone years ago and it never came back.

Cam
 
I use this tool - it was left to us (Motodd) when the factory mechanics came to repair the BB cranks in 1979 - It started life as the sleeve nut spanner for the rear wheel of a wire wheel triple or 750 - the sleeve welded to it stops it slipping off when retained by the alternator nut with the other factory crank holding tool in place - Probably plenty of these spanners lying about that can be modded - Regards - Phil
 

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Ahem, I will take a 2 custom waterpipe sockets  please, 1 for Levo to add to his spares kit and one to mount in a plaque for the wall.

We made one like AJ, Darty unfortunately was none to happy about sacrificing his 40+ year old Metamex socket  :D
 
Well, my original diagnosis was correct. 5th gear bearing cage has disintegrated.

Pity about the half-ring holding it in. otherwise I could just bull the bugger out and shove a new one in.

Edit ... 
Odd looking sprocket with the back hollowed out. Not seen one like that before.
 

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Cosi, you wouldn't want one of my custom sockets. It's as rough as guts. I expect appearance is important to a dude who wears white boots.

The end cap between the pipe and nut is an old rusty Brembo P08 caliper piston. I knew it would come in handy one day  :D
 

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Is there any reason I can't lift the top half off the bottom, keeping the crankshaft and top end intact in the top case? (lifting it by the crankshaft ends as in the picture below).
Seems to me the same as turning it upside down and taking the bottom off, except the other way up. Crankcase doesn't seem to want to separate at the front. I've removed 22 nuts - can't see anything else that needs to be taken off. The crankcase joint has released at the rear end. Does the lower cam chain guide need to be taken off?

There's some shrapnel in the oil strainer. So Id rather keep the engine right way up so the rubbish stays in the bottom case. I don't need to disassemble the pistons/cylinders anyway.

Edit (a bit later):
Never mind. I answered my own question. See last photo. It just needed a bit of gentle persuasion.
 

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Turn it upside down and open it. Only place any crud is going is down the camchain tunnel. If you're worried, whip off cam cover and stuff a rag down camchain tunnel from the top.
You can of course take the top off the bottom, just more manhandling.
You'll have your engine repaired in less than 12 hours. If it wasn't for that triple frame getting in the way, it would be dead easy.
Paul
 
Update ... (I'm sure you're all fascinated with the innards of my Jota  :D)

The bearing outer fell off when I took the gear out of the case because all the balls were on one side. There's no apparent damage to cases. The bearing hasn't spun in the case. One of the cage pieces has been run over by a ball so there's been a bit of trauma to that bearing. There's a lot of pitting on the inner race.

I'm now left with the inner race on the gear. If i can gert the spacer off (seems pretty tight) I could cut the bearing race with a grinder. Otherwise I'm going to have to make some kind of jig to hold it while I press it off.

Looks like someone has had a go at the shaft before. There's a chip busted out of the end of one of the splines. Maybe some heavy-handed bugger bashing a sprocket on.

Doesn't appear to be any other damage to the gearbox. All other bearings spin nicely and the gears/dogs all look good. Can't even see any wear in them. 5th gear bush seems OK. I haven't measured the clearance in the bush, but it doesn't feel sloppy at all.  I reckon I'm lucky that the bike made it home without any other damage.

I'll do some closer inspection when I've washed it all clean, but with a bit of luck I'll only need to replace the one bearing and put it back together.

Better go get some gorilla snot.

Cam
 

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