Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Got a pair of them Falcons too, literally light as a feather and work well. As a Wilber's man I'd like to hear your opinion on them when you've tested them out on the RGS as they're waaaaaay cheaper.

Ian
 
Had Falcons on the 180- liked them a lot.  The Wilbers on my GS are exceptional, but I think the Falcons will be a big improvement over the shot-as-long-as-they-have-been-on-the-bike S&Ws.

You'll have to take my bike for a spin next time the North of Scotland Massiv get together.
 
Fitted the optimate lead to Sophia and went to Robs to pick up the RGS grabrail ! now to get someone to make one ! was veritably warm in my garage this evening

Reggie just ride it - paranoia does'nt work with Laverda's
 
Reggie3cl said:
Checked with Keith- don't want to bugger up any of his good work.  He seems OK with those clearances for now, but wants to see the bike at some stage- impossible at the present time with work.  The exhausts are a bit loose, which is OK, but two of the inlets have tightened up to somewhere between 6 and 7 thou (as in go/nogo) so maybe about 0.165mm. 

Keith pointed out that the shims come in 0.05mm increments (I think that's what he said ::)), so that can be considered the factory tolerance

I used to do the 180's valves, but I really really hated the job.  Measure, simple calculation, fit appropriate new shim, reassemble, check, AAAAAARGHHHHH!!! FEK, FEKITY FEK, WHY IS IT WRONG???? is basically how it used to go.  Quite happy to do the sensible tappets on the GS though...
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The shims come in 0.07-0.08mm increments, above 2.60, 0.10mm.

I use following clearances, think Keith uses similar, 0.20-0.25 inlet, 0.25-0.30 exhaust.  Wouldn't let either inlet or exhaust go less than 0.15mm, found both in. and ex. valves burnt.

The bastard in the shimming process is the fit of the cam bearings in the head, along with the clearance of the cam in the bearing.  Once the slot in the head is knackered, it is difficult to repeatedly align the bearings exactly the same, the slightest deviance throws previous measurements out the window!  The early dowelled bearings are a bit easier to work with in this respect, their location is quite precise, but the bearings are more prone to crumbling/collapsing.  When measuring, cam chain should be fitted AND tensioned, best to press down on the cam lobe as well to reduce clearance due to play in the bearing.  This way you will find the smallest possible clearance and will give you a slightly larger margin of error with the bearing play added to the clearance.  Not to worry, the tappets only start getting noisy with more than 0.80mm clearance! :D

piet
 
The bastard in the shimming process is the fit of the cam bearings in the head, along with the clearance of the cam in the bearing.  Once the slot in the head is knackered, it is difficult to repeatedly align the bearings exactly the same, the slightest deviance throws previous measurements out the window!
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See?  SEE?  It's a bastard and I don't want to get involved!
 
Not today actually, but last week.
Took POP to the UK and had a wee trip around my favourite haunts.
Landed very lucky with the weather, low to mid 20s all week.

Stirling castle



Carron valley



Tarbert





My grandfather's old cottage



It was all going so well despite nearly running out of fuel. I had filled up in Linwood after a quick visit to Laverda Scozia, but when I got to Tarbert the only filling station in town had closed down, so I had to crawl back to Lochgilphead on fumes, coasting downhill with the engine off. Made it with around 0.2 litres of fuel left.
I thought the excitement was over for the day, but at Loch Lomond one of the (new) rear wheel bearings decided to shit itself.
Thought at first it was a puncture but by the time I stopped it was obvious what the problem was.
Luckily I wasn't far from my friend in Helensburgh so he collected me in his van.
Will get round to fixing it in due course. Need to investigate why it happened and what is damaged and what is saveable.

 
Pushed it, with some help. took brave decision to go to Blue Anchor engine smooth, brakes good handling as good as I can remember. Alternator crap!!. Great to meet some like minded good people shall certainly come again.  Shall post on technical about best way to find alternator fault
 
Grant said:
I thought the excitement was over for the day, but at Loch Lomond one of the (new) rear wheel bearings decided to shit itself.
Thought at first it was a puncture but by the time I stopped it was obvious what the problem was.
Luckily I wasn't far from my friend in Helensburgh so he collected me in his van.
Will get round to fixing it in due course. Need to investigate why it happened and what is damaged and what is saveable.

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I have been wondering for some time about the rear wheel bearings on my bike. All replaced with new bearings when I redid the bike but I find that when the axle nuts are done up tighty tight the wheel does not turn freely. With the spacers in place I would have thought all lateral pressure would be taken through the spacers and bearing centres allowing the out race to turn freely. Maybe a bearing isn't seated fully or summat.

I had just backed it off a bit from tighty tight and ridden it but you have got me worried again now.
 
good rideout to Blue Anchor Bay,weather perfect,Exe Valley in bluebells and wild garlic, good to meet you Duncan at last,hope you got back ok after your alternator woes.
Sorry to hear about yours Grant,had a similar scare few years ago when the rose joint seized up on the Sprint.
 

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Davo said:
I had just backed it off a bit from tighty tight and ridden it but you have got me worried again now.
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Don't know for sure until I investigate but all the ball bearings and cages are long gone. Inner race hanging there. Outer still tight in hub.
It was a new bearing and everything was good, and now its not.
 
Davo said:
I have been wondering for some time about the rear wheel bearings on my bike. All replaced with new bearings when I redid the bike but I find that when the axle nuts are done up tighty tight the wheel does not turn freely. With the spacers in place I would have thought all lateral pressure would be taken through the spacers and bearing centres allowing the out race to turn freely. Maybe a bearing isn't seated fully or summat.
I had just backed it off a bit from tighty tight and ridden it but you have got me worried again now.
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Hi Davo,
You are correct in that axle tightness should not effect wheel rotation no matter how hard you heave on it, you will have some force going across the bearings rather than just through all the inner races/spacers.  It's usually something amiss with the way the bearings are seated in the wheel (often due to dodgy paintjobs) or with the spacers themselves.  It will most certainly lead - later or very much sooner - to bearing failure.  As some have found out, this is particularly dangerous if it's the cush drive bearings, since the sprocket carrier can collapse against the shockie bolt and lock the rear wheel. 
One of many unexpectedly useful things my press has come in handy for is that on my rebuilds once I have finished the wheel fitout I put the entire wheel/axle/spacer stack (including the cush drive etc in the case of the rear wheel) in the press and put 1 or 2 ton across the spacers and rotate the wheel by hand.  When everything is correct all the clamping force is going across the inner races only and there will be no resistance no matter how much force is applied.
Get yours checked out pronto, I gather you can self-prescribe painkillers but assume you might prefer not to require it!  :)
 
mauricejota7604 said:
Hey great pictures Grant and mid 20s in Scotland very lucky.
I love that POP very puposeful how does it handle.
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Handles real good. Tuned motor makes it crisp, big tyres and brakes make it handle and stop great.
Braced frame is stiff, no more falling off a cliff feeling when throwing it quickly into bends.
Maxton front end a bit stiff for bumpy roads but Wilbers monoshock works very well, compliant, not too stiff.

Mine had no paint in the bearing seat area.
 
Thanks Steve, thought as much. I have a strong feeling that it is the powdercoat. I had masked all the parts I wanted left uncoated, of course they removed all the masking when sandblasting and coated everything. Looks like more effing work I haven't got time for.
 
I had 2 times a rear wheel bearing failure, one was on the Jota (you can see the cush drive moving outwards and the space between cush drive and rear wheel gets bigger... mine had already 2mm space when we recognized it. Reason - I think - is a to tight chain or chain miss-allignement), the other one on the 1000 SFC (left hand side this time, just like Grant's. Reason - I think again...) was either a not completely seated bearing or a spacer that was mounted wrongly. Had that also on a 1000 SFC I bought a while ago (spacers on the 1000 SFC are konical. The big end must be outwards, the small one to the bearing. However, it also fits the other way around and that locks the spacer to the wheel; almost worked the swing-arm material away...).

 
Looks like you had good weather Grant- you did'nt see Derek and his Bevel boys as they were up there somewhere - Joe had the sprocket carrier bearings go on him in Ireland , you had the lhs go - need to do them on Joan as they were a little stiff when we changed the tyres - got the parts ( thanks to Joe)  just waiting to get the Corsa docs through - just dont like to be off road with both 

Lemon looks like like a nice day out - good collection - will be there at one meet ! 
 
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