Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Started yesterday servicing the 3C forks. Looking at the old oil, it seems I better reduce the intervall for fork oil change from 3yrs down to 2 or even yearly change. :-X Also found out that I've added 5mm to much of pretension 3 yrs ago on the progessive Wirth springs, now corrected. Best hopes this will help to improve with the rather stiff feeling the forks have had so far.

Factory says 200cc of oil on each leg, and I have used this amount (maybe added a tiny quantity for matching airgaps) during the past 3yrs. Laverdamania says this is rubish, and recommends 375 cc,  airgap 130-140mm respectively. As I'm a rather lightweight guy I'm a bit in fear of overdoing it by putting that large amount of oil in there.

Has anyone experiences with adding more than 200cc of oil to the 38mm Cerianis? Just asking before I put the handlebars back in place... ::)
 
Davo said:
Thanks Steve, thought as much. I have a strong feeling that it is the powdercoat. I had masked all the parts I wanted left uncoated, of course they removed all the masking when sandblasting and coated everything. Looks like more effing work I haven't got time for.
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Davo,
I was only speaking in the broadest terms, since that's the most common reason, but if your bearing bores got powdercoated then that'd be where I'd look first. If the bearing can't reach the bottom of the bore and thus the inner doesn't touch hard up against the spacer then that gap has to be closed by preloading your balls!
End of the day, as long as the spacer is a bit longer than the distance across the inside of the bearing outer races, they can't bind (assuming bores concentric, bearings knocked in correctly etc).  In lieu of a press you can simply put the wheel back in the bike with the caliper/s & chain removed, tighten the axle to full torque and the wheel should spin freely.  If it doesn't you have an issue that needs to be resolved immediately!
Tally ho!
Steve
 
Gravelroad said:
Factory says 200cc of oil on each leg, and I have used this amount (maybe added a tiny quantity for matching airgaps) during the past 3yrs. Laverdamania says this is rubish, and recommends 375 cc,  airgap 130-140mm respectively. As I'm a rather lightweight guy I'm a bit in fear of overdoing it by putting that large amount of oil in there.

Has anyone experiences with adding more than 200cc of oil to the 38mm Cerianis? Just asking before I put the handlebars back in place... ::)
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Someone put an excellent thread about fork set up on here a couple of years back: 6" (150mm) air gap and 7.5wt oil seemed to be the way to go. That might have been for Marzocchis though so better check with the Ceriani experts in case there's much of a difference..AW
 
Stefan,

I do use more than 200ml on my 3C. 

I can?t remember exactly how much, but I don?t think I went as far as the 380ml that Laverdamania specifies.  Seem to recall that it was a little over 300ml.    Adding oil firms up and quietens the action.  Overall I?m happy with the result.  I still have the Ceriani springs and don?t use emulators.  Oil viscosity is 15 weight.   

Far prefer the Ceriani?s to the Marzo?s on my Jota!

Tom
 
Not today, but on the weekend I finally finished making my first big lot of swarf.  The swarf came out really nice and here is the waste steel....
IMG_6941_800.jpg
 
Has anyone experiences with adding more than 200cc of oil to the 38mm Cerianis? Just asking before I put the handlebars back in place... ::)
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Yep - opted to put 250ml in mine a couple of weeks ago - albeit 750, not a triple.  Don't think there is any difference in leg length, seems to give less dive under heavy braking.  Gave an air gap of 175mm vs 250 mm with 200ml.  230ml gave 190mm.  10 weight oil
 
phil37 said:
  Is this what you're going to end up with Steve?
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That's the jigger Phil, with a slight variation on the theme, stepping down a little into the webs.  The objective is to try to give the SF webs a bit easier time when bored out to suit, and to keep press forces away from the delicate flange which always cracks.  We'll see how they go.
 
"Took you 8 attempts to get it right eh Steve?"
Give him some credit! Steve is a dab hand with an angle grinder and file, nice work mate!!
The two on the right for single row?
Are they all spoken for?
 
breganzane said:
That's the jigger Phil, with a slight variation on the theme, stepping down a little into the webs.  The objective is to try to give the SF webs a bit easier time when bored out to suit, and to keep press forces away from the delicate flange which always cracks.  We'll see how they go.
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I used triple centre webs in my SF as crankpin is part of web - with turned down Sf outers- Nice work Steve BTW - Regards - Phil
 
phil37 said:
I used triple centre webs in my SF as crankpin is part of web - with turned down Sf outers- Nice work Steve BTW - Regards - Phil
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Hi Phil,
I don't have any spare triple cranks and those triple webs are hard to find and thus expensive these days.  Also, using those webs means another triple will be without a crank.  Different times I guess, and in any case I needed a different solution as my motor is stroked as well.  Working with Quentin the intention was that these will be useable both in my motor and also for others to make something hopefully more robust out of very easily available SF parts.
Lee, yes the last 2 are for my use and I figured I might as well just make them single row.
Cheers
Steve
 
910km in the sun and the wind yesterday, to go look at this.  Naturally,  my Corsa behaved impeccably  :D.  Grazie, Massimo.

(Explanation: Need a bike for a trip to Morocco in Ocober.  I ain't taking the Corsa (or my Formula  :o) on that.
And I can't afford an Atlas ... :(.)





 
breganzane said:
Hi Phil,
I don't have any spare triple cranks and those triple webs are hard to find and thus expensive these days.  Also, using those webs means another triple will be without a crank.  Different times I guess, and in any case I needed a different solution as my motor is stroked as well.  Working with Quentin the intention was that these will be useable both in my motor and also for others to make something hopefully more robust out of very easily available SF parts.
Lee, yes the last 2 are for my use and I figured I might as well just make them single row.
Cheers
Steve
Click to expand...
Ah, lovely to see, Steve! I think your creations will be the perfect permanent fix to the 'unrebuildable' centre section of SF cranks - and make 270 deg conversions a lot easier. Can't wait to fit mine and play with the crank ... some crazy ideas for that, as you know  8)

Well done - bring on the hobber and hardening man!
 
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