Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Filled in the 7 forms to be a full time carer for my Mum,that took 2 days not including a visit to the Accountant,profit and loss statement ect ect and the 3/4 of a day doing the Interview and the form signed by her Dr.Having your own company or being a farmer makes this extremely complicated
The assets test includes putting a value on the curtains in the home. Happily I had my Sister the MBA help with the forms,that included some financial shit I had never heard of,assent hiding stuff ,I expect to get my first cheque sometime after the funeral.
 
Piet is going to roll over laughing.
  :-X

Been running my SF2 daily with the nice stainless straight through exhaust tubes.
Well, as it is, I just can't get it sorted. As soon as I think I've found the cause of the spluttering on constant mid range throttle or when opening up, it comes back again with a vengeance.
I'd taken the exhausts off to get the rear wheel out to fit a new tyre last weekend and on refitting, had downsized the pilots to 55. The engine was transformed during a 10 km test ride. Monday, on my ride to work, the spluttering crept back in.
I've been checking the tightness of the exhaust collar nuts every day, and every day, they've needed tightening inducing an air leak! I've think I've got the problem sussed but won't be able to address it simply.

The exhaust system on the big valve twins, SFC excepted is in fact rigidly mounted, excepting silencers. The under engine silencer box is rigidly clamped to the engine and the tubes which go into it cannot move, either in rotation or back to front. Once sufficiently clamped to the head, the tubes vibrate as one with the engine and no force acts upon them in another plane. Only the silencers are rubber mounted towards the back.

On the small valve twins, with the junction tube in front of the engine, much the same happens: the junction tube blocks the exhaust tubes in rotation. The exception to this would be the early GTs with 2 independant exhausts and drum brake SFCs. The disc SFCs have the exhaust tubes linked and therefore blocked in rotation, be it with the 2 into one or the under engine cross over system.

My theory is the following. The vibration of the exhaust system on my SF2 induces forces, notably rotational at the exhaust port. This tends to grind away the copper exhaust gasket, adding to the natural tendency for the nuts to release as the copper gasket is compressed. I seem to remember the mating surface of the tube with the gasket appearing polished when I looked last weekend. Will check again next weekend.

If my theory is correct, the solution would be to clamp the tubes before the silencer, the other end of the clamp being unobtrusively bolted to the lower engine mounts.

Any ideas? Any feedback from people running early GTs or drum SFCs?

Paul
 
Dragged the 3C out of the barn last week, cleaned it up, gave it a once-over, installed the new battery and gave it a try.  A couple of chugs of the starter and it spluttered into life... thankfully I'd remembered to empty the float bowls almost 3 years ago!

Went for a quick spin, all sweet.  Completely forgotten just how quick the fucker is. :D :D

piet
 
Paul Marx said:
Piet is going to roll over laughing.
  :-X....


.... My theory is the following. The vibration of the exhaust system on my SF2 induces forces, notably rotational at the exhaust port. This tends to grind away the copper exhaust gasket, adding to the natural tendency for the nuts to release as the copper gasket is compressed. I seem to remember the mating surface of the tube with the gasket appearing polished when I looked last weekend. Will check again next weekend.

If my theory is correct, the solution would be to clamp the tubes before the silencer, the other end of the clamp being unobtrusively bolted to the lower engine mounts.

Any ideas? Any feedback from people running early GTs or drum SFCs?

Paul
Click to expand...

Paul, I am having a bit of a chuckle... :D  Your issues were VERY foreseeable!

Your theory is correct, as is your solution.  I have done similar to avoid problems with other unconvincables.

But that will only be part of the solution, it isn't just air leaks at the headers.  In a couple of months/years when you are fed up with fiddling around without getting any further, you will re-fit the original system and realise just how bad the engine ran without the silencer.  And most probably you'll kick yourself for going through all that hassle for just an extra bit of noise.

piet
 
But that will only be part of the solution, it isn't just air leaks at the headers.  In a couple of months/years when you are fed up with fiddling around without getting any further, you will re-fit the original system and realise just how bad the engine ran without the silencer.  And most probably you'll kick yourself for going through all that hassle for just an extra bit of noise.

piet
[/quote]
Quick question, can you still get the original system?
Regards,
Tyrone.
 
Speaking of SF headers ............. they can get stuffed as far as I'm concerned. Everytime I look at them I scratch my head wondering why they fit so badly. I mean really, this is pissing me off big time.  >:(

??? Maybe they came off a head with lower exhaust ports? Were there two haed sizes. It's like mine has an extra 10mm added to the height of it ...... FFS.

So, for now, tools down on the headers, I focused my attention back to the frame and made up a few templates, for the top engine mounts, before settling on this one. At the front I've allowed for provision of an oil cooler mount.

940e4682-e375-4421-b4a0-856479ceb21e_zpsplpbb8kc.jpg
 
you have got 2 x single coils on that bike haven't you Chris ?
is hard to see in that photo, just looks like both leads are terminating close to each other

 
tyelav13 said:
Quick question, can you still get the original system?
Regards,
Tyrone.
Click to expand...

Repros in variable quality are available from all the usual italian suspects, maybe Wolfgang as well.  OCT has downpipes only, quality of silencer box and mufflers just not good enough.

piet
 
redax5 said:
you have got 2 x single coils on that bike haven't you Chris ?
is hard to see in that photo, just looks like both leads are terminating close to each other
Click to expand...

Red
No coils at all, but it will have two 6ohm jobbies as per your advise.
That terminating is actual a billet lead seperator, the lead and cap ends are out of the shot.
I set them up with the 3ohm Dyna coils I have, I hope the 6 and 3ohms are both the same physical size.
 
chrisk said:
Red
No coils at all, but it will have two 6ohm jobbies as per your advise.
That terminating is actual a billet lead seperator, the lead and cap ends are out of the shot.
I set them up with the 3ohm Dyna coils I have, I hope the 6 and 3ohms are both the same physical size.
Click to expand...

can change to Nology, they have a smaller footprint and slap out more voltage, and are cheaper than the Dyna coils
 
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