Re: What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Just finished replacing the tired studs from a previous bottom engine mount repair. Used some purpose made M10 to M8 inserts.
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Managed to do it without mullaring the new paint....but will it work? torque test in a couple of days when its all gone off.
The whole sorry tale here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/129012777@N08/sets/72157651788798287/
 
sfcpiet said:
Yes Quentin, I do.  :D

BTW, it is not just a junction tube.  It is actually a proper silencer, the "silencers" not doing much in the way of actually silencing the engine note, perhaps subduing it a little.  As I am a "convert" to quiet bikes due to various reasons, I refuse to omit the silencers from my bikes, or attempt to make them unduely louder.  Even tried to quieten down my road/track 3C as the ensuing noise was bugging me big-time.

piet
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I'm with you on the quiet is good front. although I do discriminate between 'good' noise and 'bad' noise on motos - the stinking Harley morons I can hear redlining their big-bore shaezboxes on the main road 1km away are 110% in the latter category - seriously, these guys are so puerile I reckon their knackers are still a few years away from dropping. How they can imagine for even a millisecond that a racket like that could impress anybody, even the greenest 13yo is beyond me. But I do like the sound of a nice 916 or eq, and the Lav fits this category. It's not just me, I've had many 'ordinary' (ie non-riders) people comment that my bike is loud but not unpleasant to the ears; oh, and I definitely don't fang it through quiet resi areas (ahem ... any more  8)).

Also agree on the pros of a well-designed exhaust sys, but don't necessarily agree that removing the balance crossover has a detrimental effect on an SF's power ... straight through Contis still sing. Not so my SFC 5C cams when I tested the facotry 2/1 with no baffle and no reverse cone - hilarious (and ugly loud)! Probably dropped 30hp and most of the torque.

Now that it's a twisted crank I need to reinvent a system, because the factory 2/1 (with baffled big-bore straight through silencer) doesn't work due to the uneven pulses. It certainly worked as designed (ie open reverse cone) but I don't think there are many tracks that wold allow the db readings - but even that pales in comp for db to the above-mentioned Harley shaesters.

I'm actually thinking a siamesed 2-into-2 might be the answer to the 270 cranks setup - maybe even very similar to the crossover SFC 2-2.

I'm sure raising suspension and the like 'cures' the SFs cornering clearance issues, but I'm happy with std geometry and prefer to know things hitting the deck are never going to enter the equation ... and for me, removing the exhaust from that equation has given me many years of worry-free, rather spirited riding of the type you describe. Funny you mention big Beemers - on my scoot yesterday the nice bloke trying to follow me on his 1200 was somewhat stunned and very complimentary of the 42 year old stock SF1 (with the 59yo rider  :D) once I stopped at the top of the twisties - so much so that he took a pic to show his riding buddies (who he regularly hoses on their rides ... Ha!).

All in a days fun on the beast. (and sorry about the long post!)
 
phil37 said:
Bit late now - but why not use 10*1.25mm bolts (same pitch as std 8mm) and open rubber mounting holes to 10mm? or maybe not enough meat on mounting? - Regards - Phil
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Yep, the holes don't have a lot of edge distance and a mate turned me up the inserts for a beer.
 
Back to basics.
Took the SF2 out with the 50 pilots and 145 mains. Forget it! Pilots way too lean.
In the meantime, have had a mail from friend Claude who has run an SF2 with straight through pipes for over 20 years.
He's running standard 60/140 jets and his exhaust is rigidly mounted which does away with loosening collars and if one reflects, cracked tubes or studs. Claude rides, a lot.
So I put back the 60/140 jets and apart from a slight hesitation pulling off from low throttle or on constant throttle, it works fine.
Will rigidly mount silencers since rubber mounting only leads to fractures due to mouvement.

Did a 70 km round trip out to Ypres for a real beer.

Paul
 

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Changed the engine oil, brake fluid and clutch fluid plus a set of fresh plugs. Other than that, it's running fine ;)

Cheers,
Jacques.
 
Had a phone call from Dan Fahey this morning, Dan used to be a member of Laverda Club NSW back in the eighties. He is going through very tough times at the moment. Anybody who knew and rode with Dan back in the day and who would like to show their support are invited to PM me for further details.

Terry
 
Started the Jota after about three weeks rest, fired up first touch of the starter,  went for a quick blast down the Briars Sharrow rd then through Canberra and back to Bungendore via the Federal hwy, bike running really on song, so I  did absolutely nothing to my Laverda today.

Cheers

Bottler
 
Tail fairing and seat on, completed the engine mount repairs, fixed the headlamp and controls, and the dressed the loom. Starting to come together, now.
And I hope the engine will be off this week for its rebuild.
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Ppuxley said:
... and a mate turned me up the inserts for a beer.
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I occasionally put a slice of lime in a Corona. Your beer insert sounds far more technical.
 
Have you tried removing and fitting the engine in the frame with that in place?
Might have a space issue unless you intend to lift the frame off vertically each time.
 
chrisk said:
??? Bugger, now you've made me do a double take!
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When removing my 750 engine it pivots forward and downward when only the lower rear engine bolts are loosely in place.
The standard top frame mounts have 2 separate tabs welded to the frame each side and the rear top engine mount needs that space between the frame tabs, and your bracket is one piece without a space.
It may be ok but I would want to check clearances before welding into place.

Or maybe I should have said nothing and waited...  :D :D :D
 
Took to #6041 with the angle grinder, removed the battery holding down pieces from each side of the battery tray. Mounted the regulator and velcroed the ignitech control box in place. Fitted the starter relay. Painted a few random bits. Started cleaning up the header pipes. Got very dirty. Pondered the Laverda part numbering system for headers. 40 right, 41 left, 42 centre. Why not in numerical order from L to R or R to L.

pete
 
Paul Marx said:
Back to basics.
Took the SF2 out with the 50 pilots and 145 mains. Forget it! Pilots way too lean.

So I put back the 60/140 jets and apart from a slight hesitation pulling off from low throttle or on constant throttle, it works fine.
Will rigidly mount silencers since rubber mounting only leads to fractures due to mouvement.


Paul
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Hmm, that is surprising, Paul. Can only guess that different cams between SF1 and 2 make the diff. I did used to run 60 pilots in my SF but also 70 slides. I am very impressed with the 50 pilots in this old SF1 though - and would probably go 50 slides and 50 pilots if I was running my own bike with the Dells.

I solid mounted the Ducati Contis I ran for years - they did eventually crack in circles away from the rear brackets ... but never had the header nuts come loose or broke a stud. Good luck with it.
 
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