Redax 320 watt charging/ignition system install

Spyder31

Spyder31

Junior member
Location
Dublin
Installed my Redax 320 watt charging/ignition system yesterday. Keith provided the kit and I was pleasantly surprised but the completeness, every cable tie, screw, Velcro pad and connector needed was there along with Loctite and new plugs. The instructions were clear and the installation went without a hitch. Just need to tidy the wiring, secure the control units and battery but it started fist try and is really charging (Ill be able to ride with the lights on now:D). A great piece of kit from Reds, well put together by Keith and a great investment in IMHO.
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there is no Sachse component in my ignition/charging kits, not since Volker died many years ago
 
a little off topic (and I have asked this question before) but referring to the original post (picture) note that the generator windings are a different gauge. If magnets / coils (of wire) work the way I think they do ... doesn't this indicate that a different voltage is generated? Red's system (much improved) has a greater number of same gauge coils.
Dellortoman maybe? BTW I have a Series 1 as per the pic..
 
The voltage produced by both original and Red's is wild, ie. dependent on RPM, and, in the case of the upgraded system,
irrelevant, that's what the regulator is for. That's why the regulator is crucial with a system capable of a high output.
The original 140W system didn't pump out enough to overcharge a 32Ah battery, in road usage, and, therefore, didn't require a regulator.
 
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Spyder31 said:
First test 20 mins and it ran well, what a novelty being able to have the headlamp on :D
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I hope to have mine running soon. Parts awaiting clearance with French customs. If you have the time, could you post a photo of how you hooked up the rear brake cable to the rear set? Did you use the original cable somehow? How about the brake light switch?

Paul
 
Ah, now I get it.
I have a set of Tarozzi plates with a cast in cable stop. That changes everything. I need to make up a shorter cable for a start..

Paul
 
1200 JOTA said:
a little off topic (and I have asked this question before) but referring to the original post (picture) note that the generator windings are a different gauge. If magnets / coils (of wire) work the way I think they do ... doesn't this indicate that a different voltage is generated? Red's system (much improved) has a greater number of same gauge coils.
Dellortoman maybe? BTW I have a Series 1 as per the pic..
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The upper coil with fewer turns of thick wire produces the power for charging the battery, running the lights etc.

The lower coil coil with more turns of finer wire produces the high voltage for the original Bosch HKZ CDI ignition.

The updated setup replaces these with a stator coil devoted entirely to producing power to run the 12V system. Then the Ignitech box uses the 12V DC to produce sparks. The more modern system is capable of producing more power than the original, possibly benefitting from stronger permanent magnetic materials on the rotor.

cheers

bazzee
 
Paul Marx said:
Ah, now I get it.
I have a set of Tarozzi plates with a cast in cable stop. That changes everything. I need to make up a shorter cable for a start..

Paul
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Tarozzi don’t make plates, they are (mostly copies of) the plates of Laverda’s original rear sets.
 
Paul Marx said:
I hope to have mine running soon. Parts awaiting clearance with French customs. If you have the time, could you post a photo of how you hooked up the rear brake cable to the rear set? Did you use the original cable somehow? How about the brake light switch?

Paul
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The rear-sets are old, I dont have the original invoice but I have one from 1996 where the right side was rebuilt with a new plate and lever.
I just rebuilt them, made new linkages, fitted a new brake lamp switch spring to the switch and cable that was already on it.
brake 1.jpgbrake 2.jpg
 
bazzee said:
The upper coil with fewer turns of thick wire produces the power for charging the battery, running the lights etc.

The lower coil coil with more turns of finer wire produces the high voltage for the original Bosch HKZ CDI ignition.

The updated setup replaces these with a stator coil devoted entirely to producing power to run the 12V system.
Click to expand...
thanks .... on my machine the 2 field coils are joined (appears original) (2 wires pressed into the same brass tab) at the block under the rear of the tank. So hopefully you can understand why I'd ask. Your explanation and possibly the concept is fine, except that electricity doesn't work that way ... or does it?

So I'll send a pic when I'm back at base. Of course, Red's system is far superior but I might be looking for one of the 'course wound' coils that someone has replaced and substitute that for the high voltage 'fine wound' coil. With a decent R/R that could be a adequate fix for low output current.

The last time I measured (at the battery at a decent idle) I had about 14.7v .... so room to fiddle it somewhat.

Anyone have a 'course wound' coil they can post to the US? And maybe that's just a back shed exercise, but 12v for the entire system including the Ignitech should be adequate. Or maybe try two high voltage stator coils?
 
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