regulator rectifier series 1 Laverda 1200 180

quote, Yes I know its AC, I can't answer that , perhaps it's charge coil phasing and they cancel each other out, ( out of my pay grade).

Correct, You do qualify for the upper pay, Rob....j
 
I believe the ignitech has the capacity to work with the oem variable reluctor PUP's, as i did with the iis in the day, just those oem pups' and single impulse cam are clunky in deriving crank shaft encoding ( instantaneous velocity ) and vector positional measured value. j
 
Thanks to both of you , Rob's proved method is my path on my own build...I've just found a FH027AB with just a thousand miles on it, so buying that now. I've learned a lot about my 1200's electric system in two days....thanks to your belt and braces approach, Rob...

I've got your gist John and the advanced techie stuff you're imparting is also useful by having a careful think , although a bit of it is beyond me..

Hubert
 
Jota Rob said:
John, that might explain why I got a degree difference in ignition timing on the strobe and degree wheel on idle between middle cylinder and outers . I run the oem reluctors.
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FWIW, I had the reluctor plate diameter turned down by a whisker so that I can do a fine adjustment to equalise the air gaps and timing.
 
Once you sort all the electrical parameters out, it should be noted the larger physical size of the FH020AA including the connector blocks compared to stock and some of the older Shindegen models can mean its a tight fit to find a place to mount it.
 
Vince said:
Well, remember the gradual happy increases in battery charging ability while John updated my 3c over the years. Before that, I was replacing the old 32-amp mega wet cell batteries every couple of years back then. I think the first go was adding his Ignion system, allowing the original Ignion coil to be rejigged to charging, then some regulator experiments, and finally the Kawasaki Altinator. Well, happy then.
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Ignition coil "re jigged to charging"? I posed this idea a few years ago. Met with negative response. If this really can be done I would love to know how..Unused charge coil wasted energy!
 
John's the bloke, beyond my pay grade. From memory, the original 3c setup had 2 sections, one small bit that produced electrical energy for the self-contained Ignition and a 2nd, larger one that just barely charged the battery. John's ignition didn't use that smaller bit for his Ignition, so it was removed and replaced with another bigger bit, so you ended up with 2 charging bits instead of one. I think this only applied to the early 3c bikes. After a while, he adapted a 250cc Kawasaki part that produced even more electrical power, so now I can run a powerful headlight and heated grips with plenty of ability to charge the battery. This is from memory and my layman's description, so don't quote me.
 
Rob, well done re photo's. That stator plate is an early initial type, with mu-metal shielding on the reluctor pickups. What concerned me also as to what to expect from the magnetic flywheel, inducing unwanted impulse signals into the ignition timing signal chain. Actually measured the interference signals on a running motor, for the mu-metal shielded and non shielded part that followed from later production types. Becomes somewhat tedious the outcomes, of those measurements.

For others, Notice there are 4 terminals on the upper coil ( lower assembly in the photo ), that is the "regulator", feeding the diode bridge which used to catch fire, hard to imagine there was enough grunt to cause a fire, yet catch fire they did, under spec'ed diode bridge. Low PIV rating i would think, not that it matters these days......

Around the same time i designed a low loss IIS RR which was very elaborate as a prototype, did work, though expensive to produce, quickly deleted once ex Kwaka RR SH530 from wrecked learner bikes were sourced, between Redax and myself we bought every available flywheel/stator/RR kit plus usable TEK reluctor pickups across Australia. Very cost effective once Red/Maxene and myself, bought entire kits from the wreckers, RR worked out at around AU$35. Riveting.... well actually it was, drilling out the hot pressed rivits in the Kwaka flywheel.... HTH j.
 
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iis_iis said:
Rob, well done re photo's. That stator plate is an early initial type, with mu-metal shielding on the reluctor pickups. What concerned me also as to what to expect from the magnetic flywheel, inducing unwanted impulse signals into the ignition timing signal chain. Actually measured the interference signals on a running motor, for the mu-metal shielded and non shielded part that followed from later production types. Becomes somewhat tedious the outcomes, of those measurements.

For others, Notice there are 4 terminals on the upper coil ( lower assembly in the photo ), that is the "regulator", feeding the diode bridge which used to catch fire, hard to imagine there was enough grunt to cause a fire, yet catch fire they did, under spec'ed diode bridge. Low PIV rating i would think, not that it matters these days......

Around the same time i designed a low loss IIS RR which was very elaborate as a prototype, did work, though expensive to produce, quickly deleted once ex Kwaka RR SH530 from wrecked learner bikes were sourced, between Redax and myself we bought every available flywheel/stator/RR kit plus usable TEK reluctor pickups across Australia. Very cost effective once Red/Maxine and myself, bought entire kits from the wreckers, RR worked out at around AU$35. Riveting.... well actually it was, drilling out the hot pressed rivits in the Kwaka flywheel.... HTH j.
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What era Kwaka 250'? Might have a look around here. I assume kits sold out.
 
Thanks. I understand Red supplies Ignitech unit nowadays. I actually have one installed. Runs great. Just wanted to make the (now unused) coil in the alternator add to charging a bit. Looks like best bet is to change that coil with Kwaka 250 one. Which brings back the question. What era Kwaka?
 
Motoddrob: My search for ZZR 250's resulted in the newer 'radial' kind. I assume you upgraded to this.

Rob: I found what looks like you have posted. Just the single coil. Kawa part number 2149-3007. Only could locate using older previous number 2010-8114-2. As a NOS vintage part. Wonder what year that one is off? Anyhow if it's incorrect, someone might 'pipe up' to correct.
 
As far as I'm aware it's the newer radial coils which are used and it's matching magnetic rotor which are machined and modded to fit the Laverda 180 machines. It's not a simple remove the old and bolt on the new.
 
Shuggie said:
As far as I'm aware it's the newer radial coils which are used and it's matching magnetic rotor which are machined and modded to fit the Laverda 180 machines. It's not a simple remove the old and bolt on the new.
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Yeah, thought motoddrob was using the 'second coil' per Rob's pic until I realised he upgraded the rotor and stator from Kawa 250.
I spent ages looking for that second coil. Then realised I could just use someone's discarded one.
 
Red makes an ally mounting plate that the radial coils bolt onto. The stator conveniently fits the taper on the crank end and even the locating lug,
half moon thing that I can't remember the proper name for it, is in the right position to line up with the timing marks. Just need to file it down abit as the recess in the stator is shallower that the OEM stator. You'll probably also need Red's pickup board and hall effect rotor as well.
 
That "half moon thing" would be the 'woodruff key'. I'm just going the easy way, since I'll not be needing grip warmers etc. Just sufficient electrons to use a proper regulator. So I'm looking for a second charge coil. The ones that get removed when upgrading to radial type stator etc.
 
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