RGS Indicator question

Re5Guy

Re5Guy

Junior member
Location
New Zealand
My RGS Corsa is nearly at the point where I will try to start it for the first time. I've never had it going so I don't know what "normal" is.

I'm just doing the wiring at the moment and that's all sorted except for the indicator light on the dash.

When I turn the ignition on the orange dash indicator light comes on and stays on. Is this normal?

The indicators themselves work fine and the indicator light on the dash flashes as it should but then after I turn the indicators off it stays on.

I'm wondering if it goes out when the bike fires up???

If this isn't normal.... so far I have swapped out the indicator relay and this made no difference and checked every connection and the indicator switch. I even tried a different set of instruments I have, but it's made no difference. So any suggestions would be appreciated. Disconnecting the wire from the relay to the instruments does turn the light off but then (obviously) the light doesn't work when the indicators do.

cheers

Tony
 
Not an expert, but sounds like the dash light is grounding when it shouldn't. From memory the single dash light for left and right works because when switched to left it grounds via the right and vice-versa. Or something similar ... which is why I mention the grounding issue.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
Not an expert, but sounds like the dash light is grounding when it shouldn't. From memory the single dash light for left and right works because when switched to left it grounds via the right and vice-versa. Or something similar ... which is why I mention the grounding issue.
Click to expand...
Yes that is how it is supposed to work, and I agree about the grounding which is why I have pulled apart the switch block... it all seems to be working exactly as it should though...I can't find what it could possibly be earthing to....:unsure:. I might try running another trigger wire from the relay to the switch....
 
Andy said:
It occasionally used to happen to me, if the switch block got too wet. Cleaning and applying the smallest amount of grease to the contact fixed it.
Click to expand...
I assume you are talking about the contact in the switch on the handlebar and water being a conductor??? Mine hasn't seen rain in decades, but perhaps I will give the space between the contacts a good clean now 'cos who knows what's there.
 
I wouldn't do full choke either, as to much fuel is mostly the reason for spark plug fooling. And the RGS is a mess on replacing the center plug...

It is critical for a good starting bike that the carbs are in good order and completely tuned. Best to check the following:

-float-hights are at 18mm +/-0,5 (closed, held but not pressed upwards!)
-The hose between the 3 carbs (between carbs and engine) are in place and air-tight
-choke sliders do move freely, close completely and are all on the same hights. Best to measure when the first one hides at the top of the carb body when you pull choke open, you simply adjust the other 2 to the same level. check if they close completely when you close the choke again...
-idle mixture screws are 1,5 full turns out from completely closed/turned in (original setup with airbox and standard exhaust assumed!)
-sliders are all moving at the same speed and have the same hights roughly (either measured with a drill-bit between slider and carb body on the intake side or - a bit easier - pull the sliders open until the center one just hides at the top of the intake; adjust the others to match).

Now open choke while you press the starter button. The moment it barks into live, you have the right Choke setting for starting the bike. You will remember that quickly if you compare it to what time the lever would point to on an analoge watch

you can synchronize the carbs after all the above have been done. If the bike still runs very rough or doesn't start well, check valve adjustment...

BTW: for the blinkers: if you have the original ones on the bike, I suggest you take them off, put them well packed on your shelf and put some aftermarket ones on the bike. They are unoptainable. If you drop the bike, they are gone and not to be found anywhere anymore... They also tend to loose the lenses under riding...

HTH
 
On the indicators, from memory, I think the feed to the flasher idiot light on the panel comes directly from the flasher unit. It’s possible that you have a faulty flasher unit. The old barrel type can be taken apart and the contacts cleaned up. They’re cheap so easier to replace.
 
Laverdalothar said:
I wouldn't do full choke either, as to much fuel is mostly the reason for spark plug fooling. And the RGS is a mess on replacing the center plug...

It is critical for a good starting bike that the carbs are in good order and completely tuned. Best to check the following:

-float-hights are at 18mm +/-0,5 (closed, held but not pressed upwards!)
-The hose between the 3 carbs (between carbs and engine) are in place and air-tight
-choke sliders do move freely, close completely and are all on the same hights. Best to measure when the first one hides at the top of the carb body when you pull choke open, you simply adjust the other 2 to the same level. check if they close completely when you close the choke again...
-idle mixture screws are 1,5 full turns out from completely closed/turned in (original setup with airbox and standard exhaust assumed!)
-sliders are all moving at the same speed and have the same hights roughly (either measured with a drill-bit between slider and carb body on the intake side or - a bit easier - pull the sliders open until the center one just hides at the top of the intake; adjust the others to match).

Now open choke while you press the starter button. The moment it barks into live, you have the right Choke setting for starting the bike. You will remember that quickly if you compare it to what time the lever would point to on an analoge watch

you can synchronize the carbs after all the above have been done. If the bike still runs very rough or doesn't start well, check valve adjustment...

BTW: for the blinkers: if you have the original ones on the bike, I suggest you take them off, put them well packed on your shelf and put some aftermarket ones on the bike. They are unoptainable. If you drop the bike, they are gone and not to be found anywhere anymore... They also tend to loose the lenses under riding...

HTH
Click to expand...
Thanks very much for that run down, very useful information!
I have rebuilt the carbs and hopefully put them back together properly but I was planning on checking the settings before I tried to start it so I will use your notes here as an easy reference.
 
Laverdian said:
On the indicators, from memory, I think the feed to the flasher idiot light on the panel comes directly from the flasher unit. It’s possible that you have a faulty flasher unit. The old barrel type can be taken apart and the contacts cleaned up. They’re cheap so easier to replace.
Click to expand...
Yes it does. I thought the flasher unit (I call it a relay) was faulty as well, so I have replaced it. The new one made no difference...same result. At least I have a spare now, or two faulty ones...
 
Ok, I have decided the fault is nothing to do with the switch on the handlebars. If I remove the trigger wire from the flasher unit to the switch block the light still stays on. All that happens is the indicators stop working.
I have run a separate wire from the flasher unit to the instruments to see if there is a fault in the wiring harness. Again light comes on and stays on unless the indicators are turned on, then it flashes.
So must be a dodgy earth thinks I. So this time I disconnected all the wiring from the back of the instrument panel except for one wire that I ran from the flasher unit to the correct contact on the back of the instrument panel, and the light came on again....argghhh how's is that possible I think and I gave up and went to bed.
I have a mate who is an electronics engineer, gonna give him a call...
 
that's the best way to deal with it if you can't trace the issue. BTW. is the flasher unit one with 2 or 3 pins, please? Originally, it must be 3 pins I think to remember. If you use one with 2 pins it might miss the earth at that point. Not sure if that's the cause of the fault (I am not really good at electrics...) but might be worth checking.
 
may be it is a mass issue and the electric, not electronics, is not completely installed, so the current is going faulty ways. Sometimes all is all correctly connected but by activating the brake, the flashers give light???
 
Re5Guy said:
Ok, I have decided the fault is nothing to do with the switch on the handlebars. If I remove the trigger wire from the flasher unit to the switch block the light still stays on. All that happens is the indicators stop working.
I have run a separate wire from the flasher unit to the instruments to see if there is a fault in the wiring harness. Again light comes on and stays on unless the indicators are turned on, then it flashes.
So must be a dodgy earth thinks I. So this time I disconnected all the wiring from the back of the instrument panel except for one wire that I ran from the flasher unit to the correct contact on the back of the instrument panel, and the light came on again....argghhh how's is that possible I think and I gave up and went to bed.
I have a mate who is an electronics engineer, gonna give him a call...
Click to expand...
The RGS requires a flasher that has a seperate warning light connection.

Possibly a wiring glitch of some sort if the indicator warning comes and stays on (swapped wires?), maybe only a knackered flasher unit.

All indicator/warning/illumination lights in the RGS instrument share a common ground connection afaIk.

piet
 
Do you know what the specs are for the flasher relay? Maybe it’s doing what it’s meant to, although it seems odd, or have you got something similar to a VisiBike relay wired in somewhere..?
If you’re in Ak I could give you a hand if you like.
 
Andy said:
Do you know what the specs are for the flasher relay?
Click to expand...
It's a simple 3-point flasher relay with indicator/warning light connection, as used in millions billions of cars pre-CAN era. Must be capable of 2x21W, 12V of course.

Kellermann makes an excellent solid-state unit, just 3 times the price of a generic electro-mechanical relay. Probably costs only a tenth of the mechanical to produce and market... raise your glasses to modern capitalism!! But, they do work perfectly, I use them on most of my bikes now.

www.kellermann-online.com

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piet
 
sfcpiet said:
It's a simple 3-point flasher relay with indicator/warning light connection, as used in millions billions of cars pre-CAN era. Must be capable of 2x21W, 12V of course.
Click to expand...
Yes indeed, but I was meaning the flasher relay that Re5Guy has got installed currently, which just possibly could be something odd like an alternating flasher or something.
 
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