Rivet advice - gearchange selector arm
- Thread starter russo011
- Start date
Tippie
Hero member
- Location
- Dr?bak, Norway
Has it worn out? I have never heard of that. Probably simpler to pick up a used one, they are not normally a wear item so should be plentiful from wrecked engines.
Already spent some time looking through all the usual sites with no joy.
Reason I have decided to change is not being able to find a sweet spot for all up and down changes through the gearbox (1976 3CL).
Had real issues with finding neutral, having adjusted the eccentric to get that spot on resulted in issues changing down from 5th to 4th.
Tippie
Hero member
- Location
- Dr?bak, Norway
I recently had an SF that just would not change either up or down, never both ways no matter how fine I did the adjustment, had to either lift or tap down the lever between changes. I figured it was not quite taking the rotating drum far enough, it was the same on the bench or on the road. I increased the travel by carefully grinding a half a mm or so off the flats that stop on the eccentric adjuster cam and it was fixed. I know others have taken a smidge off the high part of the hooks so that they slip over the pins. If doing this you have to be sure you are doing it correctly, but if you are going to chuck it out there is nothing to lose. I know PB2 had the opposite problem, it had too much travel and pushed it a bit beyond each gear and he fixed it by swapping with another selector unit.
All the parts I have are new so that's the reason I was looking for advice on riveting the hook in place - just wanted to avoid any common mistakes.
Not happy to hear it's a common issue, it's so frustrating, I have gone years without issues and spent months fucking about as well. Hopefully, just one more fiddle will do mine, so sick of having off in 2nd when it missing 1st. Is there a consensus about where the outer cover should go to avoid shaft drag? Foreward back or middle, any answer to that.
Don't believe it's anything to do with drag in my case - I suffer from either selecting neutral between 1st & 2nd or changing down from 5th to 4th. At the moment I prefer to live with the 5th to 4th issue than not being able to find neutral.
I'm hoping that with a new set of components it will give me a fresh start during tinker time
Just want to be sure that I don't make any stupid mistakes when riveting the pivot post at the back of the selector plate.
I had issues 4th to 3rd..the old having to hook the lever up first. The eccentric adjustment was spot on..nothing there would fix it. So, gently does it, ground the profile of the hook...bingo, perfect gear change.So easy. The hook just doesnt slide over the pin properly. Previously had tried 2 gsskets, pushing the cover forward etc etc...just grind the hook profile, doesnt need much.Bliss
Rob
Hero member
- Location
- Midlands, UK
This topic has been done to death many times!
IMHO, replacing the fork is likely to need as much time to set up as sorting out the current item.
Adjusting the eccentric for 4th/5th selection is best practice. Ensuring that the selector shaft gears aren't binding also goes a long way to improve gear selection. To do that the selector cover should be levered forward before nipping up.
It should go without saying that the forked spring is the correct snug fit on the eccentric; shims are present and correct; cover gasket is correct thickness.
In addition to nick7's suggestion, a pretty detailed resume is here -
https://laverdaforum.com/threads/adjusting-gear-box-selector-for-easy-neutral.93685/
IMHO, replacing the fork is likely to need as much time to set up as sorting out the current item.
Adjusting the eccentric for 4th/5th selection is best practice. Ensuring that the selector shaft gears aren't binding also goes a long way to improve gear selection. To do that the selector cover should be levered forward before nipping up.
It should go without saying that the forked spring is the correct snug fit on the eccentric; shims are present and correct; cover gasket is correct thickness.
In addition to nick7's suggestion, a pretty detailed resume is here -
https://laverdaforum.com/threads/adjusting-gear-box-selector-for-easy-neutral.93685/
CLEMTOG
Hero member
make a sliver of a shim to go between the two moving parts, (say 15thou) then fashion a mandrell to fit inside and over the rivet end, to derive the same profile as your existing one, do the compression bit by using a hydraulic press, remove shim and bingo, as long as the rivet hasnt swelled in the thickness of the two parts
CLEM
CLEM
For similar jobs in the past, I always used paper ilo the shim and then burn the paper away at the end
Thanks Clem - guess I can find a snap rivet tool somewhere on line & use a hammer, an hydraulic press though?
Any clutch parts replaced recently? Clutch cable adjusted correctly? My 2¢ worth!
78jotadave
Hero member
Replacing the selector hook, why unless you can see obvious wear? It can be a frustrating exercise to get the adjustment right for perfect shifts I have been there but adjustment not replacement is the answer, you are going to have to spend time adjusting the new hook.
These bikes are not made by CNC machines, with so much variation concerning clutch pull, gear change adjustment between different bikes. Just Monday or Friday bikes would come into the equation not to mention July bikes built just before the August holiday break. Hand-built probably also means hand-adjusted and set up with a few varied tolerances thrown in to complicate it even more. Add in DPOs and 40 years of ham-fisted people me included. Cracking a solution to a long-standing issue makes my day, if and when it happens. I have chased issues in some cases for years. I hate the idea of passing on an issue to the next owner. A large part of my fun as an owner is setting my bikes up to my exact spec and having them run perfectly, or at least my version of that. I take a note after every ride of that pisses me off and try my best to fix it before the next trip. The lists get shorter but there is always something. Case in point, the left heated grip on the Atlas doesn't work, and it takes a slight lift up on the gear lever to get 1st on my 3c and I need to check the new rear shock spring setup as well.
Reunited Chris
Senior member
- Location
- Sydney
I had a similar experience with my 3CL and it turned out that the selector drum spring had weakened. Unfortunately it means engine out and split the cases to replace the spring.
The spring assists the drum in turning the last poofteenth of its travel.
The spring assists the drum in turning the last poofteenth of its travel.
Nothing replaced internally - did remove the cable to lubricate & had a DAM easy lever fitted for a while - now back to the original.
Always had issues with selecting neutral since I've had the bike, hence the tinkering. Resolved that only to get the problem in not being able to change down from 5th to 4th. Tried my best to sort that with the original parts - will have one last go before fitting all the new stuff.