Thomas aus LAU
Hero member
There are many roads to come to Rome....
e.g.:
- Bördeln mit Drehbank
- Bördeln
- brutal version
Thomas aus LAU
e.g.:
- Bördeln mit Drehbank
- Bördeln
- brutal version
Thomas aus LAU
Last edited:
Sealing ND instruments
- Thread starter Paul Marx
- Start date
Peter T.
Junior member
- Location
- Zurich, Switzerland
Thank you for the advice, think this is helpful. Will try to arrive at Rome by using the "Bördeln" link.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
I was thinking the same thing. Put the instrument holder thingy in the lathe and make a tool (maybe with a small ball bearing to press against the ring). Then with the chuck on low speed, Slowly wind the tool in to roll the edge of the ring over. Somebody must have a lathe somewhere nearby to have made the aluminium instrument holder in the first place.
Thomas aus LAU
Hero member
The idea with the ball bearing is good.
But you would have to turn the ball bearing so that you can follow the ring that is bending=closing more and more.
What do you think of the idea of pressing a ring on the outside of the ball bearing by turning a round recess beforehand.
This is then the die for the final, closed form. So you only need to tighten the ball bearing step by step.
"Pressing" is also used in the manufacture of musical instruments (e.g. trumpets), vases, ..
Thomas aus LAU
But you would have to turn the ball bearing so that you can follow the ring that is bending=closing more and more.
What do you think of the idea of pressing a ring on the outside of the ball bearing by turning a round recess beforehand.
This is then the die for the final, closed form. So you only need to tighten the ball bearing step by step.
"Pressing" is also used in the manufacture of musical instruments (e.g. trumpets), vases, ..
Thomas aus LAU
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Need some way of putting pressure on the assembly (as in the press pic) to compress the seal so the crimp makes it nice and firm. Getting very hi tech! I want to remove the black metal bezel from the ZXR250 tacho I'm using. 18,000rpm redline is a tad high for the SFQ!!! Julian would be green with envy if it were true. 
If I can double the Kwaka input signal from the Ingitech then I'll make a face where my 8,000 = the old 16,000. Then I'll need to refit the black bezel. Might see if Jason can help out. And maybe Marcel for a black face with 8,000 redline? Or I print up a new gradient and stick it over the top.
If I can double the Kwaka input signal from the Ingitech then I'll make a face where my 8,000 = the old 16,000. Then I'll need to refit the black bezel. Might see if Jason can help out. And maybe Marcel for a black face with 8,000 redline? Or I print up a new gradient and stick it over the top.
Thomas aus LAU
Hero member
Incidentally, I am of the opinion that we should purchase such important special functioning tools ONCE and then lend them to each other.
The user only pays postage (there and back) and e.g. the money for a pizza.
For example, I have often loaned out my tool kit to change the upper connecting rod bearings without disassembling the engine/crankshaft. You have only to take away Cylinder, Hat and Pistons. That saves a lot of time, money and tuition and you get a 100% perfect result.
Thomas aus LAU
The user only pays postage (there and back) and e.g. the money for a pizza.
For example, I have often loaned out my tool kit to change the upper connecting rod bearings without disassembling the engine/crankshaft. You have only to take away Cylinder, Hat and Pistons. That saves a lot of time, money and tuition and you get a 100% perfect result.
Thomas aus LAU
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
I figured the lathe's tailstock would take care of that.
The tacho signal output is programmable on the Ignitech. You can set the number of pulses per rev.