Series 1 180...conked out, now won't start

TStanb

TStanb

Full member
Weird, it had been running like a dream then last Sunday then it started to splutter half-way past an open-top MR2 (which was very embarrassing) got worse, then eventually stopped 2 miles up the road. Had to fetch it home on the pick-up. It will now not start...the only symptom I can describe is it sounds like your old Morris Minor with the plug leads 180 degrees out with the occasional cough and splutter
There is a spark, in fact there are lots of them and on all three cylinders too. But before I go down the fuel delivery route what else (electrical) can I check?
Its running a BTZ system with a replacement black box...you know, the one without an output for the generator warning light. I'm hoping to find a loose connection somewhere but there is so much sparkage at he plugs, I think its unlikely. could there be too much, even?
Cheers
 
I wonder if Sunday was a bad day for riding. My benelli ?Jota? did something similar, but has no life at all other than lots of flashing warning lights, so I reckon you will find the cure for your problem a darn sight quicker than me.  :(
Good luck.
 
Andy J said:
I wonder if Sunday was a bad day for riding. My benelli ?Jota? did something similar, but has no life at all other than lots of flashing warning lights, so I reckon you will find the cure for your problem a darn sight quicker than me.  :(
Good luck.
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So it?s a diagnostic race? Just found a blown 10amp fuse but I think it?s unrelated. Also, should the guts of the regulator thingy be hanging out like this??
 

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Check insulation of the pickup-cables, check the ignition key switch and the fuel supply to the carbs. Check battery voltage, too. Might crank but might have an issue supplying enough spark while cranking.
 
should the guts of the regulator thingy be hanging out like this?
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No! Recommend you disconnect everything from the unit that looks as though it may have faulted.
Check battery volts - before and during starting
Blowing a fuse is never OK - standard wiring?  If so I assume the 10A fuse is in place of the usual 8A item.  Wonder if that is on the black wire that provides voltage sensing to the reg/rect?  It obviously needs replacing, along with the reg/rect if it has faulted.
 
Thanks fellas,
I managed to stick it back in (And now cannot get it out) but is it buggered anyway and needs replacing as a matter of course? How would you test it anyway?

Did I say 10amp? I did, I meant 8amp and that?s what blew.
 
Laverdalothar said:
Check insulation of the pickup-cables, check the ignition key switch and the fuel supply to the carbs. Check battery voltage, too. Might crank but might have an issue supplying enough spark while cranking.
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Lothar..you hit that one perfectly..my 3c just a couple of weeks ago began mis-behaving ..no blown fuses but would suddenly die and restart while riding..and then die suddenly at a stop but immediately restart, no problem..odd

An inspection of the usual suspects (battery ground, fusebox connections and the spaghetti wiring in the headlamp) showed a voltage drop across the ignition switch.  I quick visual inspection reveled the 45 year old Bakelite base in the ignition switch had cracked. WHAT!

A new OEM Suzuki 37110-31017 ignition switch with corrected blade connections solved the problem.

The fault was an odd one. The switched power 12v (15) would drop suddenly then return to normal...an intermittent electrical failure and could have a road-side nightmare. Thankfully I made it back to my shop with a VOM and a dry martini.
 
Rusty Spokes said:
Lothar..you hit that one perfectly..my 3c just a couple of weeks ago began mis-behaving .. quick visual inspection reveled the 45 year old Bakelite base in the ignition switch had cracked.
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Common fault I fear, one of mine did a similar thing (snapped off a terninal), <100klm trip home riding one handed to hold it together and keep it going wasn't pleasant.
 
One of the first things I replaced years ago was the keyed switch, I would hit a bump and it would jiggle and kill the engine. The most common cause of this later was battery earth connections. That's stopped me 3 times in 20 years, different fail points around the battery earth connection.
 
Always carry a safety pin.
If the ignition switch goes, just pass the pin through the red and black (?) wires, and you're off again. That's how I used to steal bikes.

Paul
 
There is no statute of limitations on bike theft, so be careful. Loose lips sink ships.
I had my SF ig switch connected with male/female bullet connectors so that if I lost the key I could just unwrap the black elect tape and connect it. The thieves cut and joined the wires anyway when they stole it.
 
Tippie said:
There is no statute of limitations on bike theft, so be careful. Loose lips sink ships.
I had my SF ig switch connected with male/female bullet connectors so that if I lost the key I could just unwrap the black elect tape and connect it. The thieves cut and joined the wires anyway when they stole it.
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Most thieves are idiots apart from Michael Caine in the Italian job.

I rarely lock up my old clonkers. Doesn't protect from arson anyway.
When in a risky neighbourhood, I leave my car open.

Paul
 
I have a flashing diode mounted on my VFR via a N/C relay, flashes when the bike is turned off, might act as a deterrent. I know of bikes with the best satellite anti theft systems getting stolen. They take Harleys with hiab type crane trucks, rip those anchor systems right out of the ground.
 
Even though this is incorrect state of affairs, I don?t suppose this could Be responsible for the almost continuous sparking? It?s the ignition switch block, by the way
 

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TStanb said:
Even though this is incorrect state of affairs, I don?t suppose this could Be responsible for the almost continuous sparking? It?s the ignition switch block, by the way
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That doesn't look good. I dont know about the continuous sparking issue. I do know if the switched 12v (your exposed wire) is sporadic..my DMC will spark every time it gets a fresh shot of 12v. Like when I turn the key on.
 
Rusty Spokes said:
That doesn't look good. I dont know about the continuous sparking issue. I do know if the switched 12v (your exposed wire) is sporadic..my DMC will spark every time it gets a fresh shot of 12v. Like when I turn the key on.
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Spot on. ?Exactly the same symptom(s)
 
I have seen an ignition system that, due to multiple wiring problems was sparking continuously, with a static engine, the flasher relay was clicking at the same rate! but flasher lights were not fitted, so the only visual was the spark at two of the three plugs.
CLEM
 
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