Series 1 180...conked out, now won't start

Well I?ve fixed that orange wire but still the same symptoms...spluttering popping and banging and no sign of starting. On checking sparks at the plugs, it?s absolutely all over the place, completely random
 
You may have a defective amplifier in the BZT...very odd. Get a good Volt OHM Meter (VOM) and check your ignition switch and the switched 12v and battery. I dont have a diagnostic route for the original ignition. I know there are others here that can help.
 
CLEMTOG said:
I have seen an ignition system that, due to multiple wiring problems was sparking continuously, with a static engine, the flasher relay was clicking at the same rate! but flasher lights were not fitted, so the only visual was the spark at two of the three plugs.
CLEM
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Had a similar situation happen to me when rebuilding my old Z1,it was fitted with a Boyer electronic ignition system that was very voltage dependent,at one point with no plug caps fitted but ignition switch on and indicators switched on i got a continuous flow of electricity from each of the plug leads almost in time to the flasher unit.It was all down to the ignition box arming itself at a certain voltage and then discharging itself as the voltage dropped........it was like the birth of frankenstein but was purely down to a low charged battery.
 
Thanks fellas. I?ll try and have a look in the week. This is totally outside my comfort zone but only you and me will be able to sort this out so I?ve got to dive in at some point
 
Fathers Day and I?ve been let out into the shed...
The voltage across the battery terminals is 12.67v
The voltage at the ign switch is 12.50v
The voltage at the cut-out switch is 11.90v
...the voltage measured at the resistors (next to the coils) Going in is 11.45v and out is 9.70v
Is this correct?
 
I presume 12.67 is with ignition off?  You're dropping more volts that I'd expect. What happens to battery volts when you operate the starter? 
 
Rob said:
I presume 12.67 is with ignition off?  You're dropping more volts that I'd expect. What happens to battery volts when you operate the starter?
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I?ve been called in. I?ll check tomorrow. Where do you stick the multimeter pins? Across the battery?
 
If you run a "hot wire" cable directly from battery + to the BTZ you will then have good voltage and know whether voltage drop is the problem...

If that fixes it then add a relay etc
 
Well after a whole day, we?ve traced it to a duff set of brand new NGK (fake?) plugs.
Starts on the button with the old ones I fished out of the bin (good thing I hadn?t emptied it for 3 weeks).
However...it still doesn?t run right. Took it for a blast up on the by-pass and it goes like a rocket on full throttle but really doesn?t like anything part-throttle. So much so, it feels dangerous at 60mph+, it?s that unsettled.
All I see on Facetube are people riding their bikes and it?s getting me down
 
Rebuilt an engine on an SF1 that had a very similar issue ... only noticeable on a constant throttle at around 90-110kph. No prob under acceleration. I assumed it was an atomiser issue but never traced it as the owner took it away and sold it! Hopefully the new owner sorted it.

Your prob sounds incredibly tricky ... old plugs work but don't work?!
 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
Rebuilt an engine on an SF1 that had a very similar issue ... only noticeable on a constant throttle at around 90-110kph. No prob under acceleration. I assumed it was an atomiser issue but never traced it as the owner took it away and sold it! Hopefully the new owner sorted it.

Your prob sounds incredibly tricky ... old plugs work but don't work?!
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... and now starting to sound like my 1200 at 'constant throttle' and otherwise goes well!
 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
Rebuilt an engine on an SF1 that had a very similar issue ... only noticeable on a constant throttle at around 90-110kph. No prob under acceleration. I assumed it was an atomiser issue but never traced it as the owner took it away and sold it! Hopefully the new owner sorted it.

Your prob sounds incredibly tricky ... old plugs work but don't work?!
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Well, seeing as I?d spent ?2600 On a rebuild, I thought the least I could do was give it some new plugs...they weren?t cheapos from eBay either...ordered via local motor factor.
Feels like a carb issue but I need a starting point. Was running fine for 30miles then had a foreign object in No2 needle valve seat. Removed that, ran great for a mile then played up. Hmm?
 
What was the foreign object?
Crud pulled through from the tank?
Check fuel flow from each carb, and if necessary remove the taps and check/clean the filters.
Carbs also may have crud lodged in there too.
 
I agree with Grant. Sounds like the new plugs have oiled up i.e. they're sparking up inside instead of between the electrodes. Give them a thorough blast out with brake cleaner. The crap running definitely sounds carb/fuel related. I'd be inclined to drain the tank, flush it out and remove the taps for a clean up. Ethanol based fuel is a pain in the arse and cannot be left in the tank for any period of time without water being formed. Hygroscopic is the word, I think. Water in the fuel would produce exactly the symptoms you describe. Carefully remove the float bowls and see if there is any evidence of water sitting in the bottom of the mounting plug (big nut that holds the bowls on).
Strip and flush the carbs with carb cleaner and compressed air. Use fresh fuel. Worth a try, Mate, it must be driving you nuts. I've had the same problems with a fuel injected bike after being left with E10 fuel in the tank over winter. Cost me a new bloody fuel pump.
 
Grant said:
What was the foreign object?
Crud pulled through from the tank?
Check fuel flow from each carb, and if necessary remove the taps and check/clean the filters.
Carbs also may have crud lodged in there too.
Click to expand...

Yep.
It was No2 carb flooding caused by part of the old Float Valve seat fibre washer...the other two just dropped out but the middle one was stuck and needed some serious poking and destruction to remove it. In that process, I must have poked a little bit up into the carB body. Strange it wasn?t blown out by the airline??


Anyway...Removed taps and checked filters. All OK but when I was draining the tank earlier I did think that flow from the taps was pretty slow. I?ll remove them again and this time dismantle as far as I can.
Haven?t checked the filler cap vent yet...I?ll do that today

As I mentioned earlier, it goes like a rocket on full whack, but feels like it?s going to conk out on a partial or cruise throttle.
 
Must be very frustrating for you.....interesting it was running well prior to fuel debris.
Couple of things I've found with my series 1 180,........i no longer use NGK plugs i use Denso equivalent W24ES-U they are far more tolerant than NGK if fouled up.....NGK's you tend to have to throw away if they get fouled.

Mine also will not run properly on Super unleaded fuel,it just doesn't like it.....so ordinary unleaded and shes happy.

good luck with yours.

Steve
 
Schurminater said:
Mine also will not run properly on Super unleaded fuel,it just doesn't like it.....so ordinary unleaded and shes happy.




Isn't that odd. Mine is crazy for that super unleaded; especially the expensive Shell stuff. i have to hold it back for fear it might just leave the road and take flight !.
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BobSol said:
I agree with Grant. Sounds like the new plugs have oiled up i.e. they're sparking up inside instead of between the electrodes. Give them a thorough blast out with brake cleaner. The crap running definitely sounds carb/fuel related. I'd be inclined to drain the tank, flush it out and remove the taps for a clean up. Ethanol based fuel is a pain in the arse and cannot be left in the tank for any period of time without water being formed. Hygroscopic is the word, I think. Water in the fuel would produce exactly the symptoms you describe. Carefully remove the float bowls and see if there is any evidence of water sitting in the bottom of the mounting plug (big nut that holds the bowls on).
Strip and flush the carbs with carb cleaner and compressed air. Use fresh fuel. Worth a try, Mate, it must be driving you nuts. I've had the same problems with a fuel injected bike after being left with E10 fuel in the tank over winter. Cost me a new bloody fuel pump.
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sorry Bob, I forgot to say thanks. Thanks
 
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