Tablelands via the Gulf Savannah

Shajota

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Location
Whitsundays Qld
Ok, back from a lap around the back blocks of NQ thought I'd post it as a bit of a travelogue and keep it in it's own thread so only need to read if you wish. I apologise in advance for too many words but can't help myself!!
I had planned a trip a little while ago to head to the Atherton Tablelands and get there via some out of usual (dirt) roads. The Eagle made sense for this ride but I was heading back to an area we lived in some 35 years ago so only fair to take the triple for a nostalgic blast on the Gillies, a road it knew well back then.
Anyway one of my mottos is if you have to go North best to first head West (relative to where I am) and avoid the Bruce so straight to Bowen and hang a left to Collinsville.
On the way to Collinsville you can turn off to an area called "Bogie". This is where 3 years ago a property owner shot dead 3 members of his neighbours family (and wounded a 4th) supposedly over a boundary dispute. Those murder charges are currently still before the court. My next door neighbour also owns an adjoining cattle station to the other 2 with hubby living at and working the property at Bogie while his wife lives here in town looking after their 3 kids and working as a teacher with most weekends up the property helping. Suffice to say that the murders were a harrowing experience for my neighbour who was locked in his property for days but of course that is another's story so will leave it at that.
At Bogie there is also a historical cemetery and my neighbour tells me that on their property is also the neglected ruins of an old town which I am angling to go up and see some time. It is worth mentioning that where these properties are is very harsh and remote country although it might not seem like that from the maps..... (Definitely the wild west)
Next stop Collinsville, a rural cattle community with a long history in coal mining and tough footballers! Collinsville revels in the title Pit Pony capital of Australia because they continued to use Pit Pony's in underground work long after mechanisation. They even made the last 2 pony's union members so they could be protected from unfair dismissal and could be retired to pasture.
Central Hotel & Post office Collinsville:-P1040424 b.JPGP1040427 b.JPG
Plan was to follow the Bowen Developmental road through to Mt Coolon and onto Belyando Crossing. The section to Mt Coolon is mainly sealed with a small section of dirt which I think will also be sealed in the next couple of years. The sealed section is wide and in good condition as it has only been done in recent times. The same can't be said for poor old Mt Coolon, best days are long past but at least they have put up some signs indicating it's history. It does have a pub and there is a workers camp there but not much else. The pub has a sign at the front for opening hours which reads - "Open:- Phone xxxxxxx". Clearly opening hours are arbitrary:LOL: Pics are Old Police station!, Mt Coolon hotel and the Lyric Theatre and Post Office have seen better days.
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Next leg to Belyando Crossing is all dirt and conditions can vary as expected. Generally found it had a lot of loose gravel and was broken up in patches which made it a bit tricky. Couldn't go too fast on the better sections as the bike moved around a lot on the gravel and the next obstacle was always close. I stopped at one stage to take a pic of a long straight section and a Cruiser ute was coming the other way and pulled over to make sure everything ok. Turns out the lady driving was the owner of the property this road passes through so often stops to enquire what is happening and have a chin wag. I also pulled over later to allow a truck and his dust plume to pass. Pics - Rest stop in a nice shady spot, you can just see the ute and best let him go:-P1040432 b.JPGP1040435 b.JPGP1040439.JPG
A little bit after this I came across a cattle grid and it had a little sign warning of rough patch. I didn't see anything unusual until I was right on top of a badly broken up section of road! The Lav hit the fist hole and was pushed to the right where it hit another and flung back the other way. I had just enough time to start thinking, I hope I don't land too hard if the whole bike gets taken from under me, when suddenly we were through it and slip sliding to the next obstacle. Happy to get away with that and I knew there was much worse to come in the next couple of days.
Overall that road wasn't too bad and we made it to Belyando Crossing for some fuel and lunch. I found a sandwich in their fridge that had white meat and salad with some sort of mayonaise so thought it might be chicken. First bite suggested a much tougher meat and if I had to guess I would say it was roast pork (not totally convinced:)) and it actually wasn't too bad (or I was bloody hungry) Pics - Roadhouse (Caravan pulled in as I was taking pic)
P1040441 b.JPG20250914_115500 b.jpgand lunch:-
As I was about to leave a bloke pulled up near me, got out and waved for me to wait. He came over to warn me that the police were patrolling the area about 100kms up the road which is about half way to Charters Towers. I thanked him for that and took off. I was thinking that the patrol car would be from Charters Towers and early Sunday arvo they would be looking to loop their way the 100kms back to the Towers so doubted if I'd see them, which proved correct. The road is good but care needs to be taken if travelling fast because of all the animals with the main culprit being cattle as the majority of this is unfenced. Not unusual to come around a corner and a fat heifer just standing in the middle of the road. I did pass one car which was speared off the other side of the road with it's front smashed in and a dead cow lying on the other side which would have only happened previous day (or night)
On this stretch I also caught up to a B Double which seemed to be swerving all over the road so I followed him for a while to see if it safe to pass when he suddenly veered off the left side and raised an enormous dust cloud which completely blocked all vision so I didn't know if he completely lost control and crashed or not. I had to hit the brakes and slowly go through it not knowing what was on the other side. When I got through it I saw he had righted things and was way down the road. I caught up with him again and he seemed to be keeping it a bit straighter so I took him quickly and finally arrived in Charters Towers for a rest and a nice cold beer. To be continued.................................
 
Charters Towers was a major Gold mining centre back in the day and still boasts many historical and beautiful buildings but it is only a shadow of it's former self such as in the early 1900's when it had 54 pubs operating at one stage. Pic of Post office for example:-
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So day 2 up early and while the sun rises a bit later here I was ready to hit the road by 6.30. This is a bit earlier than I planned and with it still slightly gloomy and cloudy will need to take it steady to watch for the roos, pigs, birds feeding on roadkill and of course the ever present cattle. About half an hour north the skies became decidedly black and I thought I might get rain, but just kept things cool. 1st stop, Greenvale for fuel 200kms away.
Greenvale was originally a nickel mining area and when that mine closed the town died away somewhat however with other mines opening in the region the town is back up and running so to speak. Pics - Roadhouse and 3 rivers hotel.

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Next stop the Lynd junction which is only about 60kms away but an important crossing point for a few roads. Not long after leaving Greenvale I noticed a car catching up and pulled out beside me and motion for me to stop and pull alongside him. Driver then informed me that a lady had picked a tool bag off the ground which they reckoned was mine. I had opened my tool bag on the back to get an allen key to tighten my mirror but 1st had to remove my small compressor which sits in a neoprene bag. I must have forgotten to put it back in so thanked the good samaritan and headed back to pick up my compressor and then onto the Lynd. The Lynd consists of the oasis roadhouse which boasts the smallest bar in Australia!! Since I was there last they have however built a bloody big flash deck. I was a bit early for openers at the smallest bar but have been there before. Pics - Aus smallest bar (green door) and roadhouse:-
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Now the decision had to be made. Initially I wanted to head to Einasleigh but the weekend just gone coincided with the annual Easter race meeting and rodeo and I was concerned about the road being chopped up. (Easter you say - Yep, every Easter Einasleigh has a big horse racing and rodeo event. When I lived in Townsville in the mid to late 80's a group of us used to hire a Tarago van and head out and get on the ran tan) Anyway, not being Easter doubt if the crowds quite as big but quizzed the lady behind the counter about the road condition and traffic because the other option was up through My Garnet and come back through Mt Surprise and Einasleigh when stragglers have all left. She reckoned the road was not too bad with corrugation fairly shallow and a lot of race goers left on Sunday with many heading north anyway. So decided to risk it and headed west out of the Lynd and soon turned right onto the Kennedy Developmental Road which is dirt all the way to Einasleigh. This road proved challenging in parts with corrugations definitely deeper than I would have liked so we would see how the Lav stands up to this sort of pounding. Pics - Carpentaria Bridge over the Einasleigh River, stopped for a quick drink and the tacho didn't take kindly to being all shook up!

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The Einasleigh end of the road was in a slightly better condition and finally made it. The Savannahlander train comes out this way from the tablelands and crosses the bridge at Einasleigh and onto Forsayth where passengers do the Cobbold tour if desired. Unfortunately floods earlier this year damaged the rail bridge at Einasleigh and at present the train stops just short of the bridge and passengers get bused to Forsayth and back. The publican told me that works to repair the bridge are supposed to start soon - hope they don't get an early wet!
Pics - You should be able to see the S bend in the rail bridge & the Einasleigh pub where I stopped for a pie and beer.
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EDIT - I had started to explain the easter bit above but obviously didn't finish it. The Easter shindig was washed out this year so was held on the 12th, 13th & 14th Sep but still called the Easter races and Rodeo!

TBC
 
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In front of the pub is the Copperfield Gorge which is a pretty spot to explore particularly when the river is running. Pic is one I took on a previous visit:-
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Had a chat with the publican while I had my lunch and quizzed him on the road to Mt Surprise. He was unsure but did say that they had a few mls of rain on Saturday and a lot of people headed off that way on Sunday so road could well be chopped up. Decided to go with plan B and head the long way round through Forsayth and Georgetown to Mt Surprise - it is only about 130kms more but a nice ride!
The road to Forsayth is sealed and in excellent condition. It crosses a low range and has been widened in recent times with plenty of long sweepers. Only issue is total lack of any line marking and warnings so never quite sure what is around the bend.
Came across this couple of likely fellows strolling along the road and the termite mounds get more plentiful the closer you get to gulf country:-
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Forsayth is a bit more substantial than Einasleigh with quite a salubrious pub which also has a general store and post office. Forsayth is the nearest town to Cobbold Gorge which is quite spectacular. The Gorge was discovered in about 1990 on a working cattle property and has permanent water so viewing can only be done by guided boat tours. They also take you on some walking tracks including a glass bridge which crosses the gorge. They have built quite a resort near there however it is still quite a drive to get there although there are many tours. Pics - Goldfield pub Forsayth and a couple of pics from a previous visit to Cobbold Gorge. One of the water tour where you can see the glass bridge. The other, we did a chopper tour and you can see the gorge and also the very harsh cattle country this is - so they were very happy to go tourism....
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Leaving Forsayth it is a short trip to Georgetown with the road mainly sealed with a few dirt sections. The road from Georgetown to Mt Surprise is generally good but with intermittent areas of single lane. This is not normally a problem as verges are hard packed and easy to get off as required. Mt Surprise is a bit quiet and not sure of when the pub actually opens but does have an area where the rail motor sometimes is parked (Savannahlander) Pics - Georgetown Roadhouse, Mt Surpise pub and servo

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From there onto Mt Garnet for fuel and the drizzle started. I thought it wouldn't amount to much so didn't put any wet weather gear on and headed for Ravenshoe. Unfortunately it poured all the way and I was drenched. This had turned out to be a long day (it was now 4.30pm) so I tried the first motel I could find because I wanted good cover from the rain. 1st one was booked out but the 2nd lady took pity and found a room for me. TBC - Will it keep raining for a ride across the tablelands??
 
What's the temperature like? A mate who did fly in mining lived in Ravenhoe and, more recently, Cains. My last encounter had him wanting me to drive his Mark 2 Landy from Alice to Ravenhoe in Summer, too tough for me.
 
Ravenshoe and the Tablelands can be quite cool because they are up high but temps at the moment were pretty mild with lows done to 16 or 17. The rain obviously kept the temps down during the day but still mid 20's. The Tablelands is a popular place to come for Cairns residents for cooler condition during hot humid summers.
So, just to keep going for a little bit - After thinking about it I decided to book into the motel in Ravenshoe for 2 nights base myself here so I didn't have to pack up and could leave things to dry out. Ravenshoe is a on the South Western side of the tablelands and has a long history in the timber industry due to plentiful stocks of large healthy trees such as Red Cedar and Silky Oak discovered around the rainforest creeks. I have already posted the site of Australia's smallest bar, well Ravenshoe has Qld's highest pub!!
Pics - Tribute to the early timber industry and Qld's highest pub:-

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Woke next morning to more heavy rain and a very gloomy outlook. Waited for a while then by mid morning put on my gear including wet weather gear and went for a ride. The motel owner saw me getting ready and asked where I was going, told him I was going down the Gillies for a beer at the Mountain View. He shook his head and thought I was mad. And it did seem that way, riding along some of the great tableland roads in pouring rain but eventually I made it to the Gillies which is a 19 km section of road which boasts 263 corners in that 19kms with an elevation of 800 metres. The road has improved since I last rode it with many sections being much wider, more pull off areas and a number of long passing lanes. I did get a bit of respite from the rain along the way but at the top and the bottom it rained quite heavily. I must say the Michelins felt more planted on the wet tar than they did on the loose gravel and corrugations!! At the bottom I styopped at the Mountain View hotel and had that beer which tasted very nice.
Pics - Near the top, rain forest and misty rain, Mountain View hotel at the bottom, View of road in good condition. Looking over the edge is only cloud...
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If I can indulge myself a little bit - At the top of the range are 2 crater lakes, Barreen and Eacham and on the road to Lake Eacham there is a road named after my Grandfather who served in ww1. It is not for any particular action just an initiative to recognise local who served their country.
Yungaburra is also home to the Avenue of Honour which recognises all Australians who died in Afghanistan. This avenue is planted with flame trees which flower later in the year and would be spectacular. A job well done.
Getting back to more mundane matter Yungaburra is also home to a great old timber pub which is well worth a visit.
Pics - Avenue of Honour, Elms Rd and Yungaburra hotel.
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So the weather slightly better took a tour around various areas of the Tablelands before it started pouring again at Atherton so back to my digs in Ravenshoe to try and get a few more things dry although the wets worked pretty well. Back at the motel I note the lady owner had tidied my room and brought in an air dryer where she had arranged all my wet gear to try and dry them out. Been well looked after this trip, must look in need of help......................
TBC - Back to Charters Towers tomorrow then home with another dirt road on the radar........!
 
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bringing back memories Pete, passed my truck license in Forsayth back in 1982, we were drilling in the area and I was drinking in the pub one night with the local Policeman and told him I needed a truck license
Told me to call into the station the next morning and he would write one out for me, cost me a slab of XXXX stubbies (carton of beer for you overseas folk)
He said he had seen me driving the drilling rig into town so I obviously knew how to drive a truck

Spent a few months drilling around Georgetown as well, was before I went from minerals to Oil & Gas
And a bunch of time drilling around Charters Towers and a number of other small towns up that way
The good old days

Glad you changed your mind about selling your Jota
 
Love your road trip write ups, Pete. Have spent a bit of time up in the Tablelands in the early 70s, but brother Lee (Tippie) decades more than me, who lived by the lookout in Millaa Millaa. The good old Gillies!

My oldies always took the backest roads they could find in their old Hi Ace campervan and related their tales of adventure in Qld with great enthusiasm.

Cool tale about getting a big rig licence, Red. That copper'd be fried for corruption these days!
 
Great write up and trip Pete. Memories galore through that country, very special but many do not appreciate it for what it is. I have Leichart´s journal of his expedition up through there (Brisbane to Port Essington at the tip of NT), a great read. Ravenshoe was the start of the "dry country" for us, we would slip over the range to dry out and savour the transition forest between rainforest and savannah. Reports of the wettest September in memory in FNQ at present, so keep checking those weather reports. You are one lucky fella to get out on such a trip.
 
Ok, time to start heading home, but before that I did notice that as your unofficial travel advisor, I forgot to mention something. (No doubt I forget plenty because I have just been trying to get it out while fresh...)
Not far from Mt Surprise is the turn off to the Undara Lava Tubes. Lava tubes are self explanatory and can be found in places around the world where there has been volcanic activity. Undara has an extensive network of these tubes and is the longest lava tube cave system in the world. Of course only some of the tubes are open to the public to be explored by guided tour. Undara also have a resort at the site with many of the buildings and accommodation being old railway carriages along with large camping areas. Pic is taken from the top of one of the stairways and is one I took on a visit a number of years but shows the scale of this one:-
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Back to the tale - After a sound night's sleep woke early to more grey skies but it was only drizzle and there were hints of blue appearing. I was heading west again and expected to head into drier conditions but still put on all the wet gear including the 2 finger over mittens which I have found have worked well this trip particularly with much improved actions on my brake and clutch levers with new master cylinders.
Packed up and headed out, 1st stop Mt Garnet to top up. Obligatory pic of roadhouse ;)
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Not far past Mt Garnet you either keep going on the "Savannah way" or take the grand sounding "Great Inland Way" south. Everything has to have a name now apparently but I was heading south so took the Great inland way which I had come north on until turning at the Lynd. An uneventful trip, mainly looking out for cattle, fill up at Greenvale then onto Charters Towers. About 110kms before Charters Towers is the Ewan Race course which also hosts an annual picnic races which are on in a week or so. This is also very popular these days being an easy (and sealed rd) drive from Townsville. All young people think about these days is having a good time, not like in my day...Oh wait!?!?
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A bit further on and it was clear only one of us could make it to the end!!
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Closer to the Towers is Fletcher Creek, a very pretty spot popular with the free camping caravan crowds:-
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Arrived in Charters Towers, booked into the Commercial Hotel in time to dry out a few more items that remained wet, take a stroll around town and then back for a bite to eat and a few beers:-
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TBC - Final leg home
 
Packed up and on the road early for the final relatively short leg home. Initial thought was to head East and turn right at Woodstock, head through Majors Creek to Giru and down the Bruce home, but that didn't sound right so about 50kms out I turned right at Mingela on the Burdekin Dam road to go to Ravenswood. Poor old Mingela has died away as the highway has moved further away over the years and not much there now. Mingela also used to hold an annual Race and rodeo weekend which I have fond memories of. Pic is of the now closed Mingela Hotel a pub the Jota knows well. In about 1988 I went for a ride from Townsville to the Burdekin Dam with my girlfriend (now wife) as pillion. Halfway to Ravenswood we had a puncture in the rear tyre. Managed to buy some finilec (?) at Ravenswood and inflated the tyre reasonably and headed back slowly. The tyre continued to go down and we only just made it back to Mingela. This was a Sunday arvo and the pub was tightly shut (Licensing was strictly 2 sessions (lunchtime and late afternoon) in those days but I could hear quite a commotion behind closed doors. Banged on the door and eventually someone opened up and said they were happy if I left the bike behind the pub for a few days. Turns out there was a Mike Tyson fight on so patrons all stayed after close of 1st session but needed outward appearances to be closed! Anyway, pushed the Lav up the back, took the rear wheel off and we walked a couple of ks to the highway where we hitched a lift the 100ks or so into Townsville. Had the tyre repaired during the week and a mate drove me out to put the wheel back on and ride it back home................

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Next stop Ravenswood which is a historic gold mining town with some lovely old historic buildings and many derelect mining areas to explore. In recent years gold mining has resumed and Ravenswood now has Australia's largest gold mine with a massive open cut pit encroaching on the town and public notices of when the next blast will be. Pics - Imperial Hotel, Old mill site and Railway Hotel:-
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From Ravenswood plan was to take the dirt road to Clare which is a major sugar cane and small crop growing area in the Burdekin, onto Home hill and home. The road from Ravenswood goes down a range and includes some very steep sections (11 degree gradient) and tight corners. Pleasingly they have splashed some bitumen around at the bottom of some of the creek crossings and a couple of the tighter corners to improve all weather travel. This road goes through unfenced cattle properties and plenty of cattle meandering about. These fellows wondered what I was doing and in the 2nd pic mum is keeping a very close eye on me:-

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The road was pretty good with a few corrugations and some rough sections at the top but once on the flat was pretty good going. When I got back into sugar cane country kept a careful eye out for haul outs with plenty around then hit the very good Ayr Dalberg rd for a quick blast to the Burdekin bridge. Stopped to fill up at Home Hill and have quick break, the hot box taking my fancy so bought an enticing looking potato scallop and a what looked like a deep fried chicken kebab - looks can be deceiving!!
Fueled up and refreshed, it was just a matter of a mundane 165 kms run home to unpack and think about some tlc for the Jota which performed very well in at times entirely unsuitable and trying conditions.
And that folks is all she wrote, I congratulate and thank anyone who managed to wade through all that drivel, but I can say I enjoyed the trip immensely and the challenges definitely made it:D
(I will do a post soon about a couple of issues I encountered with the bike, a couple of them a bit mysterious!!)
 
bringing back memories Pete, passed my truck license in Forsayth back in 1982, we were drilling in the area and I was drinking in the pub one night with the local Policeman and told him I needed a truck license
Told me to call into the station the next morning and he would write one out for me, cost me a slab of XXXX stubbies (carton of beer for you overseas folk)
He said he had seen me driving the drilling rig into town so I obviously knew how to drive a truck

Spent a few months drilling around Georgetown as well, was before I went from minerals to Oil & Gas
And a bunch of time drilling around Charters Towers and a number of other small towns up that way
The good old days

Glad you changed your mind about selling your Jota
Yeh, Red, don't know what I was thinking:LOL: The triple performed well in Adventure bike mode although felt a bit top heavy at times in some of the more tricky conditions.
A slab seems a pretty fair price.......
I did mean to take a pic of the low level bridge over the Etheridge River at Georgetown - flooding in the gulf country - Never!!
 
Great write up and trip Pete. Memories galore through that country, very special but many do not appreciate it for what it is. I have Leichart´s journal of his expedition up through there (Brisbane to Port Essington at the tip of NT), a great read. Ravenshoe was the start of the "dry country" for us, we would slip over the range to dry out and savour the transition forest between rainforest and savannah. Reports of the wettest September in memory in FNQ at present, so keep checking those weather reports. You are one lucky fella to get out on such a trip.
Yeh Tippie, Innisfail has had a lot of rain for September so far. Before I left there was some talk about rain in FNQ but main areas were Innisfail, Tully and Bellenden Kerr, some of the wettest areas in Australia, I was hoping the Tablelands might escape the heaviest.
I had originally planned this trip for August but life got in the way and I thought September should still be good, but you can never rely on the weather in this part of the world. Actually when it was drizzling at Mt Garnett I had only expected light rain toward Ravenshoe, as you say, this is a drier area, but fooled I was...........
Leichardt's journal would indeed be an interesting read, something I must catch up on............
 
Hello Peter,
that's a great travel report! The area you've travelled is much different from those I have done so far, also the conditions are. Thanks for sharing that with us, much appreciated.
 
If i ever get up your way on the bike I'd love to have you show me around the country you cover on this ride, Pete
Anytime Quentin, I generally have to go further away and find different roads because we haven't that many options close by like you fellows have down south;)
Hello Peter,
that's a great travel report! The area you've travelled is much different from those I have done so far, also the conditions are. Thanks for sharing that with us, much appreciated.
Thanks Jo, I try and provide a bit of outback Aussie to show a difference to the spectacular European scenes you and others such as Piet and Paul post (and plenty others)!!! (Always jealous when I see them)
Fantastic trip and great write-up and proves once and for all you can (perhaps) go anywhere and do anything on a Jota! However, I think next time you ought to try it on an Atlas….😜
Hmmm, perhaps if I could find a cheap Atlas.....nah, Jota's been doing it all for a long time...........!
I like to try something different and the Jota was keen to go where you only normally see GS's - not that I saw any!!
The trip might have been more suitable on my American Eagle, I even run a Scorpion adventure (semi?) tyre on the front of that which I think would have been nice...........
 
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