Tight cam chain

Here is another question why is the inlet cam proruding through the camblock so far, are the half rings in position in the cam blocks are you sure the cams havent moved sideways?
And has your head been tensioned correctly the picture shows a couple of nuts off the 9mm studs???
 
Hi Bob,Is your engine still in the bike?........from the photos it looks like maybe not :unsure: I notice you have 2 nuts on one of your cam block studs,be a good time to time sert the hole while its out if of course it is (y)
 
Yes engine is out having to heli coil the cam blocks to 6mm for rocker cover screws I think Johnny jota has had a hand in this poor bike trying my best to put things right
 
Biker bob 16h said:
Yes engine is out having to heli coil the cam blocks to 6mm for rocker cover screws I think Johnny jota has had a hand in this poor bike trying my best to put things right
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Your cam bearing blocks look stock, ie, cast alloy with a cast-in M6 nut. Aftermarket billet items usually have the thread cut directly into the alloy.

Thread has likely been pulled because the DPO was too skint for a new gasket... pretty lucky the nut hasn't been pulled from the bearing block, would have destroyed the whole part. Check the upper surface where the thread enters for signs of filing/grinding. Often done to afford more pressure on the old, already knackered cover gasket. Thus modded blocks let go pretty quickly if the cam cover screws are excessively tightened.

piet
 
mauricejota7604 said:
Is it a DID chain or IWIS if its an IWIS it will be too tight
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Recently (3 weeks ago) fitted an Iwis chain (from chainman) to my sfc1000 & no problem, it was too tight to join originally but found I had managed to get the chain slightly out of line with the side plates of the chain sat in the lower sprocket instead of the roller. Wiggled it about to realign the rollers correctly into the lower sprocket on the crank & problem solved.
To make fitting the link easier I ground an indent in the jaws of a cheapo thin nosed mole type grip to fit the roller, which gave me a third hand, and set it to pull the 2 ends together enough allowing 2 hands for easy fitting of the link & side plate.

No problem with being overtight & it tensioned up as per the manual.
 

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Ah, just realised, the chain wasn't new, just the link. Had replaced head gasket & did the clearances, rather than re-use the spring clip I used the original link but replaced a new spring clip (from a new link supplied by chainman).
 
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stivesvelo said:
Ah, just realised, the chain wasn't new, just the link. Had replaced head gasket & did the clearances, rather than re-use the spring clip I used the original link but replaced a new spring clip (from a new link supplied by chainman).
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Have bought a new chain from chain man when I spoke to him he said the chain chain should be silver not black fitted new head gasket with o rings have fitted it and had a small amount of play which was ok then fitted the rear slipper went tight adjusted the tensioner so just touching and locked it engine turns easily hopefully problem solved
When i have ridden the bike for about 100 miles will recheck the tensioner fingers crossed
Thanks for all your help on this issue
Cheers bob
 
Biker bob 16h said:
adjusted the tensioner so just touching and locked it engine turns easily
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Cam chain free play should be 10mm - measured by deflecting chain up and down (5mm in each direction) with minimal loading via cams/valve springs. Three shredded wheat not required, but the chain needs a very firm push.
 
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