touring./ longer trips

rodbargee

rodbargee

Full member
Location
North Yorkshire
Been a while since I've been a very long way on a Mirage, comfy round here seems to be betwen 60-80mph, though thats pretty vibey, it still pulls really hard but seems to be much more comfortable just below 80 ...whats a good cruising speed on your machines. truthfully it gets a bit vague much over 80 nothing nasty just in the background a bit of white lining and wiggles over lines but always seems to recover ...so far, will check headstock and tyres.
 
Any triple I have ridden on long journeys seems to like 80 to 90mph, could run forever at that speed.
Until it needs fuel.
1200s used to get arounds low 30s
1000 180s used to get around mid to high 30s
Corsa got 48mpg (UK gallon) at steady cruising speeds

My own bike now (POP, tuned 1000 180) with Mikunis can reach 48mpg at steady cruising speeds, Mikunis carburate better.

And all of them become mediaeval torture instruments after 5 or 6 hours in the saddle.
After that you ass and legs are numb so it doesn't matter, except when you try to get off for fuel.
 
FIRST THING
check that your right front fork leg is floating prior to tightening the pinch clamps, if it is banged up tight against the speedo gearbox it will produce the feelings that you describe.

From my own point of view and having done hundreds of very long trips on my 1200TS, now showing 215,000 k's with something like 50,000 missing (perhaps) I agree with Grant 100%, and for me anything over 80 requires some sort of streamlining for continued comfort, I have had many occasions when doing long trips with other Laverda owners of coming alongside and giving them a cheery wave from behind the fairing, and witnessing them getting strangled by their own helmets and not able to lift a hand from the bars, this would be a bit more than 80, probably 90+

CLEM
 
CLEMTOG said:
FIRST THING
check that your right front fork leg is floating prior to tightening the pinch clamps, if it is banged up tight against the speedo gearbox it will produce the feelings that you describe.

CLEM
Click to expand...

Does this apply with the brake callipers in either direction, in front and also behind the forks.
 
Vince said:
Does this apply with the brake callipers in either direction, in front and also behind the forks.
Click to expand...

Doesn't matter where the calipers are, or if LH or RH.  It is the side for the 20mm part of the axle, ie, opposite the nut.

piet
 
So its 10pm and I have no light in my shed but I had to check this out. I have the callipers behind the fork and I have a 2mm washer between the speedo drive and the fork leg. I found when I swopped the callipers and didnt add that washer the disc would touch the fork leg. With this washer added it all lines up fine including having the callipers centred over the discs. This is on my 3c with a fork brace added, I am pretty sure I don't have any fork binding.
 
looks like I was bob on with the handling problem then

washer is incorrect, it should not be there.

to do this  the best way, remove callipers from fork legs, tie them up to prevent gravitational loads on the hoses, like a good boy, I am a rebel and never bother with the tying up, next be sure that the pinch bolts (both sides) are loose, next tighten the spindle nut, then the pinch bolt on that side, then place the bike up against a wall, and pump the fork up and down, get a mate to help with the pushing, be sure that the bottom of the right fork leg can move side to side, and that there is no sticktion, a light pry with a bar would suffice, but pump away a few times after the prying, when the slider has found its happy place on the spindle, then clamp the pinch bolt and lastly replace the callipers. The reason for removing the callipers is that they can influence the position of the slider on the spindle preventing the correct location, the callipers have opposed pistons and a few pumps on the brake lever will soon settle the pads again, its not vitally critical that the callipers are 100% centred on the discs, as the tolerance is quite large, but getting the forks set is vital or it will steer like a fat pig.

CLEM
 
I would add that you might want to check the alignment of the rear wheel.  Many years ago my Mirage felt uncertain at speed, especially when rounding corners.  I discovered the rear wheel was not in proper alignment with the front wheel.  I corrected that and the bike felt way more stable at speed. Just a thought....
The Mirage 1200TS is a fine companion for covering serious miles!
 
you are right Lawrence on both counts

the standard set up of spindle nut washers, spacers, calliper bracket etc is very often swapped around into torture or "clever Dicks" make up special spacers of not factory specs, I align the rear wheel using a massive vernier calliper that (for me) has no other use, and I measure the distance from swing arm spindle to rear wheel spindle, however you measure it (be accurate) this will ensure the wheel is square in the frame and swing arm, it does not guarantee that it is on the centre line of the whole caboodle which it must be, for this I use a stepped alloy straight edge to allow for the different thickness in front and rear wheel/tyre, leaving the bike stood on its wheels on the ramp, but strapped down using the rear carrier, otherwise the centre stand gets in the way. After you have adjusted chain tension and got the wheel straight, (vernier or straight edge) if its not in line then you have some work to do.

CLEM
 
String alignment is another tried and tested method; don't need anything more than some string (no shit Sherlock) a ruler and a couple of bricks.
 
If planning long distant touring on a Breganzie, I suggest you had better bring a tool kit with you ;o)

Not that they are not road side fix but NO modern Garage or Motorcycle Dealers have any clue about them.

You really have to know your Breganzie because no else does.
 
Other method
Loosen everything off
Spin up the front wheel
Jam on the brakes 5-6 times
Jolt will align everything
Nip up the axle
Tighten up the pinch bolts
Torque the axle nut
Crack open a cold one - job done
 
I don't like strings, sticks, bloody great calipers, theodolites, lasers or other crap that people use for aligning wheels. I rely on the principle that physicists refer to as the "rectilinear propagation of light". That's a fancy way of saying light travels in straight lines (well, straighter than a piece of string anyway). So I always do motorcycle wheel alignment by eye. Get down and sight along the wheels, front to back and back to front. When you've got the steering centred it's easy to see if something isn't right. With a bit of practice it's as good as (if not better than) any other method. 

Here's a tip if you wanna try it. The rear tyre is fatter than the front. So when sighting from front to rear, you can see both tyres. But when the rear wheel is aligned, you won't be able to see the front wheel when sighting along the edge of the rear tyre. Place something up against the side of the front tyre that you can use as a gauge when sighting from the rear. Doesn't matter what it is. Could be a coin, key, pen, or even a pebble. Smokers have an advantage because they always carry a matchbox or cigarette lighter, which is perfect. Note how much it protrudes when sighting along the rear tyre. Then swap it to the other side of the front wheel and see if it sticks out the same amount on that side. If not, you know what to do.

A significant advantage of my method is that I never fail to take my eyeballs with me when I go for a ride, so I can do it on the side of the road without special tools if necessary.

Chain alignment won't change with rear axle adjustment, so once the bike has been set up properly in the first place, it'll stay that way until you prang it or put the wheel spacers in the wrong place.
 
Vince I had to insert an extra washer like yours when I reversed the fork legs 25 (or so) years ago. It was a mystery as to why it was necessary - I suppose a closer look at the assembly in its original and reversed arrangements would reveal why it is so. I might have a look at that in the next 5 years or so. Maybe.

Cheers,

bazzee
 
Absolutely with you there, Cam. Have used that method for about 45 years ... as you say, with practice you can see within mm how the two wheels align. I bought a little laser alignment gadget for checking and setting my actual chainline (sprocket alignment) after building both wheels. I was also surprised ho much my two SF frames can differ in terms of engine position once bolted up. Might not matter to wheel alignment, but I do like to know my sprockets are perfectly when the wheels are.

I guess measuring the width of the fr and rr tyres you could use a slab of wood or whatever against the side of the fr tyre to give you a clean line from side of rr to side of fr.
 
Lots of ways to skin a cat! Don't think one method is better than any other as long as the result is the same.
In the habit of doing my maintenance (including wheel alignment) in the shed, not by the side of the road :D
 
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