Unpleasant in traffic.

Twosheds

Junior member
Location
Surrey. England
Hello people. Someone here will know the answer to this. My 76 Jota starts fine, accelerates well right up to and beyond the red line, even ticks over but on a neutral throttle, neither accelerating nor slowing, it's horrible. It only seems to want to accelerate. The more beans I give it the better it is. On a race track you'd say it was great but trying to ride at a steady speed, say 30 or 40mph in traffic is really lumpy and unpleasant. Is there a fix for this or is that just what they're like?
 
HKZ, Zero power budget on the at best, called oem/bosch "battery charging system" BTZ, Boyer, DMC et al are inductive discharge ( HKZ IIS are capacitor discharge ), inductive discharge systems use lots of energy, most not all in the spark energy desired. Ignitech has dwell control that can reduce power budget, others can better describe or indicate optimal setting. Budget on minus 3-9amps of battery charge power being not available on oem alternator configuration. There are iis documents on best 2 phase configuration for any inductive discharge ignition application on oem alternator setup. The iis long box had a power demand of 1.5Amps maximum and around 1Amp normal riding ( as revs rise the power draw increases, given more sparks are required ), later version of the iis TCI had multiple spark discharge incorporated.

Given the inductive discharge power demands ( iis had the inductive TA module ), decided to design a three phase alternator conversion for the Triples, designed around plentiful parts from the wreckers, while not easy as a parts conversion it did work, boosting the alternator current output to better than 20Amps at a post RR of 14,2Volts, a success... many were the happy heated vest, hand grips and heated socks of the enlightened.

Redax carried the alternator conversion to the modern era, a fine two person team therein.

Very possible better battery life is available with a proper 3 phase alternator, well you all know, price is long forgotten when performance and quality survives. Really not cost saving to ignore the upgrade, is it? More the matter of "feeling lucky.." luck does run out... on a road far from home...

As i recall Bruce here tested the iis at well below freezing ambient for a cold crank start, as to the riding in cold, others are brave, way more brave than myself....j.
 
Hi Clem, As I recall you bought a Sachse system, but never fitted it..arent you still running BTZ? I run the Sachse on my 180 Jota, with hall effect pick ups not optical, and the charging system supplied by Red before the new design, recall from a Kawasaki? Odessy battery been in there maybe 7 years..no problem. Biggest change recently was to Mikuni carbs and 78 bore.Honestly it is lovely from start, tickover to full bore, lovely torque.. though these changes costapacket. Just rode it back from Keith Nairns in Glasgow to Kent over 2 days.Btw, his new workshop is something to behold. Not seen it mentioned, but..there is a new headgssket design. Inbuilt copper washers in place of the o rings which had been fried on the previous gasket, causing smoking, now gone.Ask Keith if you want to know more...
 
Yes Nick you are correct, I did buy a Redax kit (or my French sister did for me, as a pressy) and I did not fit it, it has the hall effect pickups, I still have the original BTZ system fitted and enough parts for about ten such systems, all obtained for next to nought and much donated as "passed on". I still use it, I still like it, but I do accept that the Redax is a big improvement, My main negative to the system is that onece fitted to an installed bike, it would be neccessary to cut off plugs/sockets in order to remove the motor, which as you know I have done many times in the past and am about to do yet again, so it (might) get fitted after proving what will probably be the last motor that I fit to TOG, unless I dislike its characteristics, (the engine that is) which is possible, because it will be different yet again.
CLEM
 
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onece fitted to an installed bike, it would be neccessary to cut off plugs/sockets in order to remove the motor,
As far as I know, Red's kit is supplied with Deutsch connectors. These can be disassembled, leaving the pins crimped on to the cables which are slim enough to be pulled through the crankcase casting hole to the alternator. That of course is only needed if you're stripping the alternator / crank assembly.

Otherwise it's a simple job to unplug the connectors to enable motor to be lifted out of the frame.
 
My main negative to the system is that onece fitted to an installed bike, it would be neccessary to cut off plugs/sockets in order to remove the motor,
what a load of bullshit, a normal person would just disassemble the Deutsch connector, pull the wiring through the tunnel
Once engine back in, feed wiring back through the tunnel, assemble the Deutsch plug again
 
I had my motor out 3 times since fitting Red's upgrades using spade connector blocks. I just removed the spades from the blocks on the alt wiring and the ign wiring only has the smallest fitting on the ends that clamp into the connector block.
Fairly pathetic excuse for not fitting what is probably the best upgrade one can do on the triple motor.
 
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