Voltage with Lithium battery

this might or might not help, but I am assuming the bike we are discussing here is a 120? IIRC in these bikes the third phase of the alternator only comes into play when the headlamp is turned on, at all other times that third phase is idle and doing nothing, lots of owners (years ago) mosdified that wiring to give all three phases charging at all times, maybe your wiring has been "played" with and this is giving you an unregulated charge to the batterry?
CLEM
not by any means a clever spark. in fact you would be better off with a flint and a bald bastard cut file.
 
..of RR's, there are a number of technologies that could have been implemented in the various available RR's, "Mosfet" controlled RR may be configured in a number of ways, generally not as "Shunt" regulation. May well be a synchronous rectifier format, where the voltage regulation and incoming AC voltage ( implied current ) rectification is accomplished by the ( polyphase ) series regulating device(s), low cost implementation could be argued.

As for the new generation secondary batteries, not all that familiar though believe there to be 4 types of chemical compositions with different charging regime requirements. Tangled with various non motorcycle applications for "Lithium" batteries, takes research and bench work to achieve a confident application outcome and resulting predicatble performance, ie not all lithium batteries are the same even in a vertical technology type.

Charging systems and battery that suddenly fail, mode dependent. Fatigue failure a first notion, has merit. Now into the internal type of construction. Have little doubt that SSB are very aware of early field failures, matter of how it is handled as PR or dedicated resolve to make good the after failure efforts.

Test of charging system and battery, Bruce has the many years/decades of experience to call upon, as myself. Over the decades test equipment advanced and the connection of said same equipment, had to be mitigated with "is the test connection modifying what is observed or measured". Classic being AVO meters and their stated sensitivity as "load" Ohms per volt. Long topic there, summation is the test equipment loaded the measuring circuit. No problem, make the measuring equipment high impedance, comes the "VTVM". Ok no loading, now we have a highly sensitive device with long probes, ie "Antenna" that pick all and any spurious external electrmagnetic fields ( cue ignition system in perhaps this case ), oh... now we need to provide a "shielding" configuration and behold the three probe/"grounding" lead test probes... this is getting silly.. Modern test equipment will have pluses and minus in measuring application and techniques, it is not a simple, the device is accurate and is a true and meaningful reading, much is application and interpretation of the measured result. To call it Complex would be a simplification in the extreme.

Most notable, the verifiable CMRR of the modern testing device(s), for the broad device types in Shindengen;


J from a big local Rockabilly festival, had my Jota next to the stage, post band last number, fired up the Laverda, had the punters jumping out of their jeans or dress, sound was a very good encore... plenty of bloke grins amongst the classic car mob... stamping your place in the arena.
 
Last edited:
this might or might not help, but I am assuming the bike we are discussing here is a 120? IIRC in these bikes the third phase of the alternator only comes into play when the headlamp is turned on, at all other times that third phase is idle and doing nothing, lots of owners (years ago) mosdified that wiring to give all three phases charging at all times, maybe your wiring has been "played" with and this is giving you an unregulated charge to the batterry?
CLEM
not by any means a clever spark. in fact you would be better off with a flint and a bald bastard cut file.

It’s a -81 Jota, but that really makes no difference.

“maybe your wiring has been "played" with”…Nooooooo -> wiring
 
Received my RM Stator reg yesterday - it was bigger than anything shwon online or in installation vids -0 to the point where i had to cut the tab down and drill a new mounting hole to have any chance of fitting the end cover back on. In addition, the eyelets are for M6 bolts, but they take M5 screws ... and the space to fit one of them is too small and I have to trim the holder and the eyelet. plug and play it was not. Took considerably longer than expected (or wanted!). A 1am finish in the shed ...

Started the bike this morning, voltmeter idiot light still alternating green-red. Multimeter shows 17-18V at a fast idle!! Oh, fookin great!! I am positive I made no error in fitment, so either: a) the new reg is fukt or b) I have some other problem.

Any electrical gurus on here know what, other than a dodgy reg, can cause overcharging?

Pic shows new reg in place. I've emailed RM Stator to request that if the reg is faulty, warranty still stands, as the modifications I made were necessary to allow fitment (which they guarantee is a straight fit) ... and this was the last one in the country ... at a paltry A$210. Not happy.

oversize fitting tab.jpg
 
Update ... well well well ... had a spare GPX750 alternator on the shelf - ratty, rusty looking reg assembly under the cover, exact same part as mine - thought, worth a try ... long story short - perfect. Charging 14.3-14.6V. I was sold a dud!! Chasing warranty.
 
Mixed and matched quite a few "car" type 3 phase alternators, swapping various types of armature exciter regulators, depends on the generic alternator frame form, ND for example. Diode packs et al also. What actual form type Quentin is the alternator. Basic regulator modules run around the $35 mark. j

*** just saw your update.... reads similar to the clapped out oil drenched alternators i bought to make one... well done Q.
 
Received my RM Stator reg yesterday - it was bigger than anything shwon online or in installation vids -0 to the point where i had to cut the tab down and drill a new mounting hole to have any chance of fitting the end cover back on. In addition, the eyelets are for M6 bolts, but they take M5 screws ... and the space to fit one of them is too small and I have to trim the holder and the eyelet. plug and play it was not. Took considerably longer than expected (or wanted!). A 1am finish in the shed ...

Started the bike this morning, voltmeter idiot light still alternating green-red. Multimeter shows 17-18V at a fast idle!! Oh, fookin great!! I am positive I made no error in fitment, so either: a) the new reg is fukt or b) I have some other problem.

Any electrical gurus on here know what, other than a dodgy reg, can cause overcharging?

Pic shows new reg in place. I've emailed RM Stator to request that if the reg is faulty, warranty still stands, as the modifications I made were necessary to allow fitment (which they guarantee is a straight fit) ... and this was the last one in the country ... at a paltry A$210. Not happy.

View attachment 93695
Crikey the four soldered wires look awful to me! Did you use lead-free solder?
cheers,
bazzee
 
Thought the same, without disrespect to Q. 97% tin solder does not have a plastic transition state, sets like a snap frozen pea. Unnerving to see the effect when hand soldering. Perhaps the flux burnt off to soon.... though looks more akin to too lower temperature of the hard to solder extensive copper thermal conduction path. Speak for myself, been soldering for better than 56 years. Hard not to notice joints like this.....j
 
Yeah, I looked at that after I'd seen the nice blobs on the scungy GPX750 alternator I scrounged the test reg from.Looking at it now, it's hard to imagine I did such a shitful job. Maybe in an earlier life it's had the rec or stator replaced by some hack? But I'm certainly no dab hand at soldering, so highly likely that I'm the culprit. If it is my ugly handiwork I'm guessing I had to empty the housing for machining and welding?

Luckily it hasn't been problematic over the maybe 30,000km+ it's done on my bike/s - could easily be more ... too long ago!.
 
That is exactly the reason why I have never tried to weld, I am 30 years of practice too late to be any good at it. I would rather use a pro and get the best result I could. It's a good thing to know your limitations.
 
I don't weld where it's visible or my life depends on it :ROFLMAO:

Update on the reg, RM Stator got back to me and were very understanding (actually appreciated the detail I went to to explain why their product wasn't a straight fit). I can claim warranty from Whites Motorsports here in Melbourne - who supplied it.
 
Update: New Lithium compatible reg-rec (rmstator) fixed the overvoltage issues I had with fh020aa. Voltage is now steady 13.9-14.2V, depending on what lights I have on and how fast I ride...
 
Back
Top