What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Finally, I hope, sorted the rear brake on the Corsa. The rear caliper was sticking a bit so I cleaned up bit of corrosion on the caliper bore closest to the pad and re greased the piston and seals. Also discovered the rear M/C was a 15.8 mm (as I recall, just less than 16mm, or 5/8 " bore). Replaced with an 11mm one. Using the Forum to remind me best way to bleed the rear brake system as it had been a few years since I had done it. I bled the M/C first, then attached the brake line and caliper. The trick is hold the caliper up high and use rapid short gentle strokes ( I'm talking about the brake pedal here, you can use any stroke you want for other things) to bleed the line and caliper. Sure feels more compliant now but need it warm up a bit before I can road test it. Snow is gone but north wind coming across 400 km of still frozen lake (ice is 1 meter thick) is keeping it cool.
 
henrywillms said:
Finally, I hope, sorted the rear brake on the Corsa. The rear caliper was sticking a bit so I cleaned up bit of corrosion on the caliper bore closest to the pad and re greased the piston and seals. Also discovered the rear M/C was a 15.8 mm (as I recall, just less than 16mm, or 5/8 " bore). Replaced with an 11mm one. Using the Forum to remind me best way to bleed the rear brake system as it had been a few years since I had done it. I bled the M/C first, then attached the brake line and caliper. The trick is hold the caliper up high and use rapid short gentle strokes ( I'm talking about the brake pedal here, you can use any stroke you want for other things) to bleed the line and caliper. Sure feels more compliant now but need it warm up a bit before I can road test it. Snow is gone but north wind coming across 400 km of still frozen lake (ice is 1 meter thick) is keeping it cool.
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Wow, that's a big drop in bore size. My old setup was an 08 caliper and 5/8 m/cyl and it was suitably ineffective - the way I like it. Good enough to hold me on an incline at the lights but would never lock the back wheel at any speed.
 
Normally either 11 or 14mm rear M/Cs used on the RGS bikes. Each size has its dedicated actuating lever to compensate travel. Brake is totally useless if not correctly matched. Never seen the reservoir-less type in 15(15.8).

piet
 
The 11mm will produce more of a "feel" at the expense of more lever travel, and may be more prone to locking/skidding depending on the pads used.
 
Mounted new stainless steel foot pegs (rider). Waaaay back, where passenger foot pegs used to be.

tappi2.jpg
 
Assembled cams and chain. Retorqued. Remeasured. Exhaust clearances tightened on exhaust. Do over (again) and and ended up all 0.25! With all this practice, decided to try to get inlets closer. Wound up 0.23, 0.24, 0.20. #3 could be better. I'll take it!
The bike bought "with no issues" has one less issue.
 
Lee87H said:
Doing what I believe is the first valve adjustment on my 3C at 3500 miles, one tight intake, and two just under spec exhausts , shims are right in the middle size wise, everything looks real nice, can’t wait to ride
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Well it took a few days but everything spot on, synched carbs, new battery, the 3C is running perfectly, ready for the the riding season
 
Lee87H said:
Well it took a few days but everything spot on, synched carbs, new battery, the 3C is running perfectly, ready for the the riding season
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Lee, What battery did you go with? I just bought a BikeMaster MS12-19-BS AGM and it's not performing, getting ready to pull starter motor for a cleanup. I had the battery directly connected to the starter and it still wouldn't turn over the motor.
 
Hi Wayne, I went with a Mega Crank MTX-16L AGM Battery, 350 CCA, 21AH, from Battery Mart, $79.95 shipped, I've had one in my Buell for 5 yrs and it's still going strong, It shipped out of Virginia, got it pretty quick, spins my 3C over fine, sounds like your starter for sure, if you get to upstate NY ,give me a shout. Cheers
 
sfcpiet said:
Normally either 11 or 14mm rear M/Cs used on the RGS bikes. Each size has its dedicated actuating lever to compensate travel. Brake is totally useless if not correctly matched. Never seen the reservoir-less type in 15(15.8).

piet
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12mm on my Corsa, Piet. Before going to Breganze, I did like Henry - replaced it with a new 11mm unit. Couldn't get the old one to pressure up, despite new seals.
 
Cured a misfire at around 5k on my 1200TS, the flying kangaroo. Pulling away from the lights the other evening, coming back from CLNSW evening drinks, with TC trying to get ahead of me on his Jota, I was doing good until a. he got it wound up, and b. a misfire interfered on my bike. To be honest it wasn't the first time I'd noticed it. The bike has relatively new Ignitech and Mikunis so I was reasonably confident they were not to blame and had a suspicion about the high tension side of the ignition, so after conferring with Red I decided to replace the coils and leads. Couple of days later they arrive and an hour further and she is revving smoothly all the way to 7+. I didn't bother going higher as the local streets are a bit suburban. So very pleased.
 
Piet , Ventodue ...thanks..mine was a 15.8 reservoir- less M/C. Now 11mm reservoir-less. I have no reason to think it was ever changed as bike had low km on it when I got it many many years ago and no signs of damage etc. Wolfgang thought maybe when the bike was assembled at the factory the wrong M/C was put on.

In reference to the different actuating lever between the normal 14 and 11 mm versions....what actuating lever do you mean?.....the short rod that pushes directly on the M/C or the flat triangle shaped steel plate between the brake pedal pivot and the short rod? Trying to determine if mine is now suitable, as still have not got chance to ride it.
 
henrywillms said:
<snip>.

In reference to the different actuating lever between the normal 14 and 11 mm versions....what actuating lever do you mean?
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In reply, Henry, I can do no better than quote Piet from some time back ...:)

"These different M/Cs require the appropriate secondary actuating lever (the one that goes through the footrest plate).

12mm M/C (part# 47 222 129) requires lever #43 311 188 = 55mm long

15mm M/C (part# 47 222 121) requires lever #43 311 181 = 39mm long.

Using the 12mm combo works wonders for the rear brake!"

Scan from the parts book attached. Its piece 29. So yeah, it seems you need to change it. But what do I know? Best talk to Piet first.
 

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  • RGS rear brake.jpg
    RGS rear brake.jpg
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Thanks Ventodue. I'll check which one came on my bike and once the snow from a spring storm we just had (20cm or about 8") melts from the road, I'll try a road test to see how it feels.
 
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