What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

The shafts are easily damaged, as a last resort, like Cam said, instead of even more damage, tack welds can keep the bike on the road, that was nuts. So I guess what happens is any movement of the sprocket freets the shaft and it gets worse and worse
 
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The shafts are easily damaged, as a last resort, like Cam said, instead of even more damage, tack welds can keep the bike on the road, that was nuts. So I guess what happens is any movement of the sprocket freets the shaft and it gets worse and worse

Well there are ‘tack welds’ and then there are ‘TACK WELDS’ the sprocket ones fall into the latter category 😳
 
It's going to take some serious surgery to separate that.
But that sprocket will never wear out - sprockets never wear out :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

I don't like seeing the results of a rooted spline on the output shaft - so far my interface is holding up even though the sprocket can be fitted by hand ... 9000km. and hasn't worsened so fingers crossed, touche bois, tocca ferro and touch wood!
 
My Atlas front can move slightly, I haven't pulled it off, but soon it will get a front and Steel rear, sick of how fast the alloy rears go hooked and brake teeth on my well over strong 3c engine and a new chain. What's odd is how much trouble my 3c took to do its front sprocket. It took one of those Induction heater coils to heat up the sprocket for an easy fit, it was SNUG
 
Clutch could not manage the power of my SFC so I changed all the plates, also I rised the handle bars over the upper triple clam to make the bike more comfortable for an rider in his best age. Test ride will come. 😄
 
What did you get? I was just counting clickers on my Nitrons to see where they were and to check there the same on both sides. Backed off the threaded spring preload 2 full turns, that extra preload was needed with the panniers full loaded. Rode it after removing the pannier load and still with the extra preload. Horrifically hard, but worth knowing the effect.
 
Read a fair few reviews and appear they have a pretty good rep for building decent shocks, seems a lot of BMW mono shocks use as aftermarket item.
I just got the twin shocks without remote reservoir after much changing of minds and procrastinating.
Interestingly they also offer a kit which includes shocks plus progressive springs and emulators for the front (I have Racetech so didn't get that).
I did opt for the bearing mounts instead of rubber mounts.
Price changes as you fill in the info and options but I think seem pretty good value and they are supposedly made in Australia.
They have menu for makes and models including Laverda so sizing etc all good.
Dunno, but they look pretty well made and feel great - guess we will see.........
(Edit - I wasn't actually going to mention the brand because I will probably be told they are pure junk.......oh well, suck it up princess:LOL::LOL:)
 
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Hyperpro are a Dutch company, but they do very well internationally.

Marnix
Yeh, I knew they originated in the Netherlands and they appear to be well regarded overseas.
The Australian site says they established Hyperpro Australia in 2005 and work "in partnership" with Hyperpro in the Netherlands and have stickers on the shocks saying "made in Australia" so not sure how that works! I would imagine they are a distributor but may have some assembly or somesuch so they can claim made in Aus. Don't know but for the price I am very happy with them and see how they perform over the long term.........
(Edit - Had never noticed them mentioned on here as a replacement option when someone starts a thread about shocks and they certainly seem to know Laverda.........)
 
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From memory, White Power were Dutch as well, so was YSS. I think they had an employment connection. The latter, I think, gets them built in Thailand. Pricing is pretty competitive with the high-end competitors. Damping adjusters on the Piggybacks look way easier to get at compared to my Nitrons.
 
Read a fair few reviews and appear they have a pretty good rep for building decent shocks, seems a lot of BMW mono shocks use as aftermarket item.
I just got the twin shocks without remote reservoir after much changing of minds and procrastinating.
Interestingly they also offer a kit which includes shocks plus progressive springs and emulators for the front (I have Racetech so didn't get that).
I did opt for the bearing mounts instead of rubber mounts.
Price changes as you fill in the info and options but I think seem pretty good value and they are supposedly made in Australia.
They have menu for makes and models including Laverda so sizing etc all good.
Dunno, but they look pretty well made and feel great - guess we will see.........
(Edit - I wasn't actually going to mention the brand because I will probably be told they are pure junk.......oh well, suck it up princess:LOL::LOL:)

I used to go past their Adelaide operation regularly, always bunches of various bikes there.
I'll call in to Prossie next week and check them out.
 
From memory, White Power were Dutch as well, so was YSS. I think they had an employment connection. The latter, I think, gets them built in Thailand. Pricing is pretty competitive with the high-end competitors. Damping adjusters on the Piggybacks look way easier to get at compared to my Nitrons.
I've made two adjustments to my Nitrons since I fitted them - after setting the sag and with damping started on their default, I upped it a bit at the Island, softened them just below default after the Otways ride and now they just feel right - i don't notice anything in the arse end. Couldn't be happier
 
Q, We have very different weights to deal with. So far, other than the modern Japanese Suspension, Showa on my modern Husky, no one has had a clue about out-of-the-box settings for older bikes, especially if you're out of the usual range. The only tips that helped came from Matt the Race Tech vintage bloke in the USA. My very early Race Tech emulators came Standard with one high-speed compression hole drilled, later models came with 2 and even 3 holes. I ended up with 4 after hearing Matt's advice. The local Race Tech bloke took $400, fiddled a bit and put it all down to the lack of fork bushes on old forks, no help at all. The bloke who distributes Nitron in Oz couldn't even explain why it took only one spring to be changed to increase the spring rate on 2 shocks. They know what THEY know and passing info seems like way too much trouble. So apparently my 120kgs affects the shocks different to your let me guess, 70kgs. Have you tried pillioning anyone, say, slightly smaller than you? Hang on, with your alloy swingarm, your bike also has more lay-down shock angle and maybe even longer travel to work with. It's the only 90 mm of rear travel available on mine as well. It limits its ability to absorb hits, most road bikes have 120mm and more. Anyway, it's now much better with the compression backed off to 2 clicks off full soft. Just had another thought, over the years, I was always impressed at the state of the roads south of the border. Just passing the sign on the Princes Hwy, I would notice a way smoother road surface, and that's pretty crazy to think. NSW is a much bigger road network and the back roads we ride to avoid scrutiny are pretty bad, and lately even when improved the more than a years shit weather turn them nack to crap again. Those Spurs close to Melbourne are like race tracks compared to what we ride, Bells Line for example, my eyeball bounces like crazy. BTW I hope I am not being offensive, just my point of view. Lately, saying anything different gets taken as an insult. People be strange these days. I like playing around and seeing if it gets better or worse.
 
All good, Vince. Fully understand that your bike setup, weight etc have a significant bearing on suspension setup - I'm just very happy that I haven't paid a shedload for shocks that aren't cutting the mustard. My knowledge of suspension setup isn't very deep. If I ride a bike that's pogoing, wallowing or skittish over a series of bumps I can sus out what's needed, but the finer points are beyond me.

I'm sure a top-notch person could make big improvements to my overall setup. If I could afford to pay them I'd hand it over today. Had a quote of $1800 to do a set up. That's out of the household budget for my hobby.

The Q is a single seat only ride - I never much liked the feel of my bikes with pillions on the back - especially heavy ones. BTW, I'm 62kg ... surely makes things easier.
 
Unless they're changing internal shim stacks, $1800 is crazy just to set sag and play with clickers. Terry Hays, after changing springs on both ends and revalving to suit on my Husky, that was about $1000 and about half that was parts, then charged me $70 to watch me ride his test loop and set the clickers, that made a huge difference and that extra $70 was well worth it. Funny story, I was heading down to his track from his workshop, and what do I see, Massive woops a metre tall and 2 metres apart, and I am thinking there is no way I am riding that nightmare. Thankfully, it was his Supercross track, I rode a 30m flat loop with a tiny rut.
 
I don't know what parameters Nitron ask for but others (like Maxton) get you to put in all the relevant lengts plus rider (and bike iirc) weight, type of riding (in Maxton case how fast you are on the track) and come up with their base setting. They probably have an algorithm to work out the base setting. Most people find it spot on so do not need to spend thousands of cash and time getting them good.
The big suspension expert here set up a Harris triple race bike with about one mm sag both ends with a hundred kilo rider aboard, a right bastard to ride. Don't always get what you pay for.
 
They asked for the usual: weight, riding style, etc. My experience with the Race Tech spring rate calculator on their website tends to come up with harder springs than I am comfortable with, even when you select comfort. But what I want is to be able to use 95% of the available travel, not a stiff ride. Hard to get with only 3\4 of the travel most road bikes now have. Doest help that the stiffest front springs Race Tech have for 38mm forks are 0.95, and in my case, they need a lot of preload to get a good SAG figure.
 
A cautionary tale...

Having changed the clutch cable on the GT I went for a ride, and stopped at a popular biker's cafe near West Meon called Loomies for a beveridge.

Travelling home towards Alton on the A32 coming up to the staggered crossroads, where left is the Petersfield Road and right would take you up the hill and along to The Pub With No Name. A silver Volvo estate is sitting at the junction to my right, and another car to the left. I’m doing about 55 to 60. I just get a feeling that the Volvo is going to pull out, so I cover the brakes.

Sure enough it pulls out in front of me. I’m braking hard, while trying not to lock up a wheel, and just manage to guide the bike between the car and the verge. I’m halfway along it before I scrub off enough speed to drop behind. I don’t know how I managed not to hit it.

Then I’m on my horn. I end up following them and pulling them over when I get an opportunity. The lady driving is incredibly apologetic. She admits she didn’t see me. Even though I’m wearing a bright yellow crash helmet and had my light on.

I’m not aggressive or accusatory with her, but very calm. I told her I wasn’t angry, but had to show her something. I show her a picture of my 9 month old little boy on my phone, and ask her to please be more careful. To check, and look, and check again. From her reaction I think the point was hammered home.

We parted ways, hopefully both having learned something. For me, it was ‘trust your instinct’ listen to that voice.
 
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