What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

motoddrob said:
The on going saga!!
Got the cams back in and started the torque sequence. #1 8mm exhaust cam block stud just didn't tighten.
Exh. cam out and fitted a Timesert.
Cam back in and the centre one started pulling. It torqued to 18ftlb just prior. Thinking about it that #1 stud was loose when I removed the cams.
Who'd of thought I'd be spending the weekend removing the motor to timesert that centre stud!!!
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Rob, use shoelaces next time, far better than wire
 
78jotadave said:
I would not hesitate to use the old oil in the Laverda; 400km is barely used, I guess you could repurpose it for use in your tractor:unsure:
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Agree - might seem like a chiseller move, but if you've drained into a spotless container, why would reusing the oil be a problem? The Mobil 12 20/50 V-Twin that I use costs a bomb - and oil ain't gettin' any cheaper - I don't like throwing it away.
 
Went for a ride with me on the 3C and my son on the '66 Norton N15CS, which died. Swapped bikes and I nursed the Norton home, coasting with the engine off on the downhills, and bump-starting when needed. Checked the usual suspects - water in fuel, obstruction in fuel supply, ignition switch, and the new wiring for the anti-sump cutoff. It turned out that the Tri-Spark coil was heat-soaking. I spent $30 on a 3-ohm Dyna copy, and now it's back and running fine. Up to now, the Norton I rebuilt from a parts pile has been perfect. Maybe jealousy got to it. Next up is to put in my new Moto Witt ignition/alternator and dial in the 3C.
 
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Got to ask why a Moto Witt ignition/alternator and dial in the 3C, the ignition is fine, but the whole Redax kit specifically for the 3c includes the big alternator that charges the battery way better than std. Where did you get your parts? Am I missing the availability of another type of big altinator kit?
 
Whacked a new oil cooler on, and managed a leak free fit on the pirtek hoses I had made up. Quick strip and hammerite the mounting bracket.
Also fitted an LED replacement bulb - the colour and throw of the headlamp is a fair bit improved.
 

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Laverda1000.de said:
Got new TÜV today - still gives me sweaty palms every time, because of those memories of old, of grey coated rivet counters. No reason to worry nowadays - the unregistered Wilbers shocks didn't register and the broken rear brake light (from disuse, I guess, but was still working when I left home) just elicited a "Guess you'll have to fix that later"....
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It's gratifying that common sense can prevail these days.
 
Laverda1000.de said:
Got new TÜV today - still gives me sweaty palms every time, because of those memories of old, of grey coated rivet counters. No reason to worry nowadays - the unregistered Wilbers shocks didn't register and the broken rear brake light (from disuse, I guess, but was still working when I left home) just elicited a "Guess you'll have to fix that later"....
Click to expand...

Come to think of it there are more than the YSS and Mikunis not registered on mine ...
😬

Fun to ride can't be registered anyways ...
:cool:
 
Have you been in and toyed with the selector mech? I'd hazard a guess it's THE most discussed Laverda 'enigma' on the forum. Dead easy to adjust, although I now realise std twin owners will need to remove the RH exhaust. Which makes me wonder, how tricky is it if the junction box is still in place? With an SFC 2/1 or underslung I just lean the bike against the garage door frame, remove short gear stub and the 3 bolts and off comes the cover.

Have you got an owners manual or a green book? Very simple to align the cogs and set the adjustment. Other things can also cause your prob though. Worth reading (VERY) recent posts on this.
 
It's more art than you might think. Read the threads to learn the tricks years of experience have discovered. My first few attempts, sometime in the late 1980s, took months to find a missing 5th gear. There are a few subtle fiddles you need to do to avoid any binding as the case cover nips up. Keep banging through the gears by hand while hand spinning the rear wheel, so you notice the change if it stops easily getting gears. If that happens, slightly moving the case cover eases the binding. The cut groves need to be horizontal to time the gear selection, and the cranked spring leg goes on top. The econ-centric adjustment is best done in 4th gear.
 
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