What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

That's an added fuck up factor, but even using RAL2010 I have seen different shades from paint jobs from different suppliers or painters.
I have no confidence in these colour matching computers either.
I had one job where the painter had to match an existing shade and I rejected it 3 times, after they had used 3 different colour computers to try to match it.
 
I agree , I?ve had the same problem, 3 iotas, same code, 3 different painters ordering off 3 different suppliers , 3 different colours, what?s wrong with white anyway...
 
Cosi said:
I agree , I?ve had the same problem, 3 iotas, same code, 3 different painters ordering off 3 different suppliers , 3 different colours, what?s wrong with white anyway...
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Sounding just like Porlean Pantsdown.
 
Heading home on the 735km run back from Dijon in France where we spent the weekend at the Coupes de moto legende event,one of many highlights was the 2 parade laps around the circuit to celebrate the 70th birthday celebrations.
Led off by Piero laverda on the legendary V6 alongside Giovanni laverda it was an amazing experience and a joy to be sharing it with so many other Laverda riders.
A fantastic event,in glorious weather with the Jota's never missing a beat throughout the whole journey,......just glorious! :) 8)

i will try and add some more photos later.







Schurmy




 
No doubt the Lav purists will have a cringe in their leather helmets, but I finally got around to the last of my idiot-proofing features. Like modern bikes...

1) Earlier I put a microswitch on the clutch cable so the starter motor will only run when the clutch is in. Saves the embarrassing accidental lurch.
2) This week I got around to also putting a microswitch and diode circuit on the sidestand, so it must be up for engine to run, except if in neutral. ( the diode allows the neutral switch to override the sidestand switch, as is conventional)
Yes, I know it's not old-school pure Laverda blah blah blah , but most of my riding is on modern bikes and I get used to the interlock features.
 
The SFC replica I purchased a couple months back had some original, clapped out Ceriani shocks.  The ride on these was something like a pogo stick on wheels... fun times over the bumps.  Some folks would pay good money for a ride like that, and I bet there's even folks who would pay good money to watch it online.
So, an order went in to DAM on the 4th of June and 8,800 miles and 6 days later I received a new set of Ikon 7814 series shocks, which I promptly installed.  Next up will be installing the new brake cable and DAM 'easy clutch'.  In the meantime I'll be trialling different pre load settings on the rear.  I'll post up in the technical forum, but if anyone weighing 200lbs / 90kg / 14.5 stone has some baseline they've had success with I'm all ears.
 
Chuck3CL said:
1) Earlier I put a microswitch on the clutch cable so the starter motor will only run when the clutch is in. Saves the embarrassing accidental lurch.
2) This week I got around to also putting a microswitch and diode circuit on the sidestand, so it must be up for engine to run, except if in neutral. ?
Yes, I know it's not old-school pure Laverda blah blah blah , but most of my riding is on modern bikes and I get used to the interlock features.
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Ha! I'm in the opposite camp. With over 50 years of riding old clunkers that have no such interlocks, I'm used to not having them.  I recently bought a 2008 Benelli Tre-K that has those bloody interlock switches everywhere and they were driving me nuts, especially the clutch switch, so I bypassed them. Good riddance! :D
 
Same here Cam, all these things do my head in.

Recently I bought a Triumph with a Datatool alarm fitted, now that has to be the most annoying piece of equipment ever invented and it's going in the bin.
I thought it would be a hell of a job disabling it but as it turns out you just disconnect it and bridge 4 wires in the connector block to the loom.
 
pf1 said:
Recently I bought a Triumph with a Datatool alarm fitted, now that has to be the most annoying piece of equipment ever invented and it's going in the bin.
I thought it would be a hell of a job disabling it but as it turns out you just disconnect it and bridge 4 wires in the connector block to the loom.
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+1.  Had the Datatool on my Formula ripped out.  I'm quite capable of losing an ignition key all by myself, so the last thing I need is yet another piece of kit designed to stop a motorcycle running ...  :P
 
I am a bit heavier than you, 90kgs to my 125kgs. Setting up these shocks is made more complicated by there multirate springs. In my case my weight would completely sack out the light section of the springs allowing a very harsh ride on the firmer section of springs. I trick I found is wiggling the rubber bump stop down the shaft as far down as you can, sit on the bike and then get off and the bumpstop will stop were the bike sags, set the preload so it sags with you on it at approx 1/3 of travel. Pull the bumpstop down again and go for a ride on bumpy ground, then look to see if there is a bit of travel left. Not having this to look at results in guessing. Do the same with the fork with a cable tie.
 
Dellortoman said:
Ha! I'm in the opposite camp. With over 50 years of riding old clunkers that have no such interlocks, I'm used to not having them.  I recently bought a 2008 Benelli Tre-K that has those bloody interlock switches everywhere and they were driving me nuts, especially the clutch switch, so I bypassed them. Good riddance! :D
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See, I told you they would cringe ;>).

(Speaking of Benelli's, in 1966 I was riding a clapped out Benelli on the freeway when the side-stand spring broke and the stand suddenly fell down. No interlock in those days, no warning, and I can tell you the next left hand turn was more like riding a pogo stick than a MC. Thus my preference for an interlock.)
I think it's what you get used to. To each his own.
 
I had a shock absorber rod break recently on the SF.
If I'd had an interlock thingy, I would have noticed it no doubt, 4 or 5 years earlier.

Paul
 
Vince said:
I am a bit heavier than you, 90kgs to my 125kgs. Setting up these shocks is made more complicated by there multirate springs. In my case my weight would completely sack out the light section of the springs allowing a very harsh ride on the firmer section of springs. I trick I found is wiggling the rubber bump stop down the shaft as far down as you can, sit on the bike and then get off and the bumpstop will stop were the bike sags, set the preload so it sags with you on it at approx 1/3 of travel. Pull the bumpstop down again and go for a ride on bumpy ground, then look to see if there is a bit of travel left. Not having this to look at results in guessing. Do the same with the fork with a cable tie.
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Thanks, Vince, for the trick.  Knew the fork procedure, but missed seeing the rubber bump stop on the shaft (where are my glasses...?).  Good call. 
 
Paul Marx said:
I had a shock absorber rod break recently on the SF.
If I'd had an interlock thingy, I would have noticed it no doubt, 4 or 5 years earlier.
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Sorry Paul. I'm not following your logic. Maybe I'm missing something obvious, but what kind of interlock would warn of an impending shock absorber rod breakage?
 
Dellortoman said:
Sorry Paul. I'm not following your logic. Maybe I'm missing something obvious, but what kind of interlock would warn of an impending shock absorber rod breakage?
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I think he is being obtuse. Saying that you can't have microswitch interlocks for every possible fault. Just my reading of it of course.
 
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