What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

henrywillms said:
On the other hand only 10 days for a machine shop to true the hub on my rear wheel (RGS Corsa) in their lathe. The surface the brake disk bolts to was not true causing disk run out up to .012" at the out edge of the disk (.008 variation at the outer diameter of the hub).

Unusual to find a wheel that's out of true at the hub. Plenty of them are out of shape at the rim due to a rough life, but the hubs are usually spot on. Maybe someone has messed with it before.
 
Dellortoman said:
Unusual to find a wheel that's out of true at the hub.

??? I wonder ....... there have been cases of the rear rotor on RGS' snapping in half. http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,85032.0.html
Perhaps this is the reason.
 
Trimming down the inlet seats of the racer while the motor is apart for the new Carrillos. Not a job I willingly farm out. Inlets had become wide but not the exhausts. Very lucky to have friends with the right tools to lend me.
 

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??? I wonder ....... there have been cases of the rear rotor on RGS' snapping in half. http://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,85032.0.html
Perhaps this is the reason.
Have a bit of a theory on the cause.
In the past, I was in a situation that required me to use the rear brake more than usual, when I pulled up I found that the rear wheel was binding and the disc was very hot. On investigation I found that the pads unevenly worn, basically wedge shaped and surmised that the pads were causing the pistons to lock up. The problem was solved with new pads and I now make it a habit of rotating the pads on a regular basis.
Think this problem was recognised with the advent of four-pot calipers where the pistons are of different sizes.
 
"Think this problem was recognised with the advent of four-pot calipers where the pistons are of different sizes"
Most modern bikes have single piston rear calipers these days, often small "radial" mounted ones. I have never had uneven wear on pads with my 08 rear caliper.
 
Good for you Tippie. I have had uneven wear on mine and the problem was solved as stated.
 
YES,
I doid get my polishing parts returned yesterday, but now have insufficient time to be ready to ride today, and the robbing bastard wanted an extra 20 quid, which he didn't get!, they do look good though, virtually as new, there is a lot to be said about the longevity and durability of stainless exhaust, they just don't look as good as chrome, but it only last until you run the motor, these exhausts are probably 30 years old and going strong and still looking good for another two ton of dosh,
photos later,
CLEM
 
Picked up this little beauty this morning - nearly bought it a few years ago - It' a mad 728cc BSA M20 sprint bike - has got a V5 with it too  >:D >:D - Regards - Phil
 

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Spent yesterday in the Redax shed, rebuilt 880SFCK motor went in, bolted everything up.

Second stab of the button and she roared into life, idle jets changed, and we?re ready for a dyno run. Sounds crisp, and sweet.

Very pleased with the outcome, big thanks to Red. Will try and get a video on YouTube soon.
 
My rear wheel hub on my Corsa (with floating disk) may have got out of true when I had problem with the brake getting "stuck on" . I assumed it was hard seals on the piston that then caused the piston to stay out and warp/score the disk. I addressed those problems but then found the hub was out of wack. I am guessing the cause and effect but I don't know what came first....the chicken or the egg.








 
Well, I can answer one question - the egg came first.  Probably doesn't help solve your brake problem though.

You should talk to Drikko. Your RGS has too much rear braking. His has none. You should be able to come up with some kind of solution between the two of you.
 
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