What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

sfcpiet said:
Only have hi-res pics of this bike with time/date stamps, so not really suited for the calendar.

I've now disabled this function in my camera...
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All "real" cameras embed information (like date taken and many other data) into the jpeg picture in the metadata region (Exif) of the file anyway.
 
Davo said:
Dare I ask, where do you wear your thong?
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Dare I ask ........ what kind of thong you're talking about?

51zy2VNWh8L._UX385_.jpg
 
Largely but seemingly not completely unbuggered my crappy carb balancing efforts from monday. Doesnt feel as smooth revving as it was before, but fingers crossed in the morning it proves rideable, as I'm heading north towards inverness to take it around the coast. Alternatively on the KTM if it's still buggered.

Rebuilt the brake light using a spare lens and a cojple of bits of m4 threaded bar. The old lens is scattered somewhere over the A303
 
Alexb83 said:
Rebuilt the brake light using a spare lens and a cojple of bits of m4 threaded bar. The old lens is scattered somewhere over the A303
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Wiltshire Laverda Spares to the rescue (again) ;)
Good luck for tomorrow - I?ll await the updates 8)
 
Martins just come back from Hebridean adventure 1,800 miles, Sky, Harris  etc on his 77 1200, Alex if you"de stopped at our ILOC meet on Sunday you"de have met him.
 
Alexb83 said:
Largely but seemingly not completely unbuggered my crappy carb balancing efforts from monday. Doesnt feel as smooth revving as it was before, but fingers crossed in the morning it proves rideable, as I'm heading north towards inverness to take it around the coast. Alternatively on the KTM if it's still buggered.
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how are you trying to balance these carbs Alex, with vacuum gauges ?
attach hoses to all 3 carbs using the vacuum ports provided on the Mikuni carb, you remove the rubber bungs that are currently installed
remove the carb tops on the outer two carbs, no need to do anything to the middle carb as it has no adjustment
start engine, I ramp the idle speed up to 1,500 rpm when doing the initial balance
manipulate the eccentric nuts below the Phillip head lock nuts to adjust the vacuum readings on the outer two carbs to match the middle carb

can be a finicky process as the middle carb will change as you bring the others into line as idle speed will increase and decrease depending on adjustment

 
redax5 said:
how are you trying to balance these carbs Alex, with vacuum gauges ?
attach hoses to all 3 carbs using the vacuum ports provided on the Mikuni carb, you remove the rubber bungs that are currently installed
remove the carb tops on the outer two carbs, no need to do anything to the middle carb as it has no adjustment
start engine, I ramp the idle speed up to 1,500 rpm when doing the initial balance
manipulate the eccentric nuts below the Phillip head lock nuts to adjust the vacuum readings on the outer two carbs to match the middle carb

can be a finicky process as the middle carb will change as you bring the others into line as idle speed will increase and decrease depending on adjustment
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That's what I was trying, Red - borrowed some gauges from A14RGS and set them up. But once I started tweaking Carb 1, Carb 2 went out of whack. Then it stalled. Then I couldn't restart it, and bugger me but I couldn't get it back to where I started.
The adjustment of the eccentric nuts is very fiddly.
Disassembled the whole rig, re-did them all by eye. Reassembled it and got it running again.

Tweaked on the gauges at a higher idle so that it wasn't as prone to stalling - they' were pretty well in line but it doesn't feel as smooth as it did before I started :(

Or at least in line enough that hopefully I can ride it over to see Rob tomorrow and he can have a more experienced crack at it!
 
Last night, I was thinking about my harsh forks ......... then I remembered when the bike burned to the ground, the plastic spring spacers (a hollow cone shape) had melted and I turned up some solid alloy spacers.

These would be about 90mm long, with just enough clearance to fit down the tubes. I may have inadvertently reduced my air gap by ............. shitloads.

Last year I found some on Ebay, I just have to remember where I put them.
 
I use plastic electrical conduit for preload spacers. The heavy duty orange stuff is best. It has a thick wall so the spring has a good end surface to bear against and if you get the right size (32mm I think?) it fits neatly into a 38mm fork. Seems to be resistant to fork oil too. Just square the ends off in the lathe and bob's your uncle.
 
Dellortoman said:
I use plastic electrical conduit for preload spacers. The heavy duty orange stuff is best. It has a thick wall so the spring has a good end surface to bear against and if you get the right size (32mm I think?) it fits neatly into a 38mm fork. Seems to be resistant to fork oil too. Just square the ends off in the lathe and bob's your uncle.
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What is a good starting length for a Ceriani forked 3c? mine has none at the moment :(
 
About 1/3 of travel or 30mm sag, that's how much the bike fork sinks from fully up to where the bike is with you sitting on it.
 
TC said:
What is a good starting length for a Ceriani forked 3c? mine has none at the moment :(
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If you have standard, unfucked with, 38mm Ceriani forks in good condition just find a weight fork oil that suits and otherwise leave them alone. Once you start playing with them you spend a heap of time and money for very little improvement.
 
m.o.t'd the Jota yesterday.......a little late unfortunately after its fork seal change and exhaust fettling but now happily back on the road..........Strangely my horn decided to stop working at the testing station?......but easily fixed by taking a wire off the second one!
allowing the other one to beep merrily.......very strange as they both worked before i left home and both worked again when i got home........how very peculiar that was. :D 
 
Told by some random bloke, have a good look at the horn and you will see 2 tiny drain holes, locate one at the bottom so water drains away and they don't rust inside, who knew that one other than random man.
 
Schurminater said:
Strangely my horn decided to stop working at the testing station?......
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I had exactly the same thing happen to me at a testing station. Pulled the spade connectors off the horn and gave them a squeeze with pliers - all good. Bike passed the test.

Some bikes just don't like being MOTd.
 
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