What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

took TOG down to the huntsmen pub for out local monthly meet, was testing a repaired hydraulic slave cylinder/sprocket cover, this started out as a horrible item having been welded twice (yuk chicken crap, still leaking) and also sufferred a broken top due to a busted chain, brought back from the dead and as an experiment for my own use, no bleed nipple and the hose straight onto the back of the cylinder, + zero possibility of fluid where you dont want it.
CLEM
ps next one I might weld up the hole for the rubber bung (done that before on cable types with the long lever) and also the hole in the top where the hose was previously
 

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Nice Clem.

Bleeding... A banjo bolt with integral bleed nipple would look a bit fugly, as they tend to be long and would stick out sideways.

To have a bleed point [which is a little better looking] could you just tap the banjo bolt head, say M5, and put a pretty little looking low-head srcew into it. Copper washer underneath the head. Then when bleeding, just let the fluid run down the case to be caught by a rag before touching the frame.
 
Fitted a new ignition swith to the SF, the old one had been grumbling for a short while, but gave up completely. A side benefit is that the DMC is now a lot happier with a regular voltage supply, the bike fels like it had a thorough tune up :)
Can highly recommend fitting a relay to feed your ignition system (kill switch, coils and ign box) - they will always be happier with the max possible voltage. AFAIC an ignition switch should just be an on-off switch, everything being wired to run as directly from the battery as possible.
 
took TOG down to the huntsmen pub for out local monthly meet, was testing a repaired hydraulic slave cylinder/sprocket cover, this started out as a horrible item having been welded twice (yuk chicken crap, still leaking) and also sufferred a broken top due to a busted chain, brought back from the dead and as an experiment for my own use, no bleed nipple and the hose straight onto the back of the cylinder, + zero possibility of fluid where you dont want it.
CLEM
ps next one I might weld up the hole for the rubber bung (done that before on cable types with the long lever) and also the hole in the top where the hose was previously
Good thinking and execution, Clem. Gee, those slot head screws look very 'old school British'!
 
Did a rego on a scooter today, the main bolt that holds the engine to the frame was half out, nut gone, rear shocks holding the whole show together. Totally amazing! Talk about a hinge in the frame! The L plate on the back gave the game away, the young girl had no idea there was any problem.......
Sounds like she brought it to the right bloke 👍
I trust you gave her a patient lesson on basic checks? I’ve generally found women to be very good learners, I’ve given my daughters and a couple of their friends a few lessons and now they don’t hesitate to change the oil in their cars, makes me very proud. Their various boyfriends on the other hand... they already “know” everything!
 
Had to pull the starter motor on my Zanè 750 Formula (after it stranded me out in the country ...)

Brushes worn down to the wires, and that in barely 18,000km since I last replaced them. Eeek!

Bits May 2021.jpg

Hey ho ... Wonders of the internet, found replacements in Germany. Hopefully now on their way, and I'll be good for another ... what? 18,000km? Should see me out.
 
Had to pull the starter motor on my Zanè 750 Formula (after it stranded me out in the country ...)

Brushes worn down to the wires, and that in barely 18,000km since I last replaced them. Eeek!

View attachment 56984

Hey ho ... Wonders of the internet, found replacements in Germany. Hopefully now on their way, and I'll be good for another ... what? 18,000km? Should see me out.
Did you just replace the brushes - is that a two brush plate ? Have seen some of the posts lately but these are the first pics
 
thanks Haggis, bleed nipple just not needed, I only had to loosen the banjo, and let it dribble a bit, then bleed using the one at the master cylinder end, just easy peasy, , the previous ones had a bleed nipple (well button head Allen bolt actually, in the same place and the hose in the conventional place (which still has risks even though it is an extended type), thanks for sourcing the bolt with minimul bleed nipple though, but it would needed in 10mm. the repair without the nipple and the hose bolting on externally was for my own bike and my own use, most would not want it like that, I love it because it 100% removes the risk of fluid in places where it is not supposed to be, but it can be done both ways, Ijust need to find some buggered covers to bring back, to life, they must be lying on peoples shelves somewhere.

I just wish I could get the rear brake up to TLS spoke wheel standards, next to try is a 5/8th master cylinder (15mm) and a P32 rear calliper the small ones as fitted to Zanes and later Duks, or maybe a PO5, which I dont have.

CLEM
 
I just wish I could get my TLS up to where it used to be. Plenty of shoe left just not much power.I think I have one of the link bushes flogged out so its a SLS. I am going to try lubing the cable and foot lever pivot and see how that works.
 
A bit stiff and sore as you would expect, ribs in back sore but don't think any broken. A long time since last (racing at Karlskoga) and that was not so good. Was enjoying such a good ride too. Ceriani fork legs are both damaged where it hit the armco posts, it slid under and a couple of blokes helped drag it out. I rode home - against the wishes of all the people who stopped to help.
 
Wore a Laverda hoodie to a pop-up Eat Street last night. A bloke accosted me telling me about the Yota he had when a young bloke....... he asked if I had a Yota ...... I said I’d had an orange one and a black one. He rolled his eyes and said the non orange one wouldn’t have been a Yota.

:rolleyes: Reckon he knows more than me......
 
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