piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Smicko, Marty!
What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?
- Thread starter CLEMTOG
- Start date
chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
Nice tidy up Marty.
martymoose
Hero member
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
Just did the 5km TT course, thing is fast! Twin plug is very torquey.
BlackJota
Senior member
- Location
- Sunshine Coast Australia
It is all orange body work, was in a local ford dealership on display a couple of years back. Sorry don't have a photo
of it any more.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
I'm mystified as to how the 6 plugs fit in there.
sideshow
Hero member
I’m digging the colour
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
I figured that was the plug arrangement from the inside Piet. But it must look a bit weird on the outside. Was thinking it must be a bit of a tight fit, especially around the cam chain tunnel.
Rob
Hero member
- Location
- Midlands, UK
Scabby photo of the original setup on my TT1 rep. Subsequently much tidied up with TEK twin outlet coils and copper cored silicone HT leads.
breganzane
Hero member
- Location
- NSW Australia
Makeover on the double plugger looks great Marty!
Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond
Hero member
- Location
- Cotwolds
Thomas aus LAU
Hero member
This is a good material, that is also used as a heating hose in Humvee's with a slightly larger diameter.
The empty shell of a silicone cartridge has exactly the same diameter, as the hole through the frame.
If you then work with two shorter pieces of hose, you can easily remove the fairing as the inner hoses do not have to be dismantled.
Thomas aus LAU
Sir Sidney Ruffdiamond
Hero member
- Location
- Cotwolds
Hi Thomas i used a bigger sleeve on the fairing end as the pipe i used is ID 38mm - its a push fit into around 7cm - holds it firm but should pull out easy enough - not taken the fairing off yet
Before starting to restore my 3C, I'd bought bits for it amongst which a side stand kit from Jota Joe.
The bike being finished just before summer I tried to mount the kit. There's a plate for the stand which is mounted between the foot rest mount and the rear lower engine mount. The holes in my plate wouldn't align, the footrest mount being several mm too high on the bike. In coordination with Joe, I made a card template reproducing the original steel plate. You can see that the footrest hole at the top is way out. From that though, I made a plywood template which matched up to the bike perfectly. I sent that off to Joe, he made a new plate and drilled it. I fitted it yesterday, perfect fit.
I'll now be able to modify the stops for the centre stand because it goes too far forwards and the bike is very difficult to roll off the stand.
Paul
The bike being finished just before summer I tried to mount the kit. There's a plate for the stand which is mounted between the foot rest mount and the rear lower engine mount. The holes in my plate wouldn't align, the footrest mount being several mm too high on the bike. In coordination with Joe, I made a card template reproducing the original steel plate. You can see that the footrest hole at the top is way out. From that though, I made a plywood template which matched up to the bike perfectly. I sent that off to Joe, he made a new plate and drilled it. I fitted it yesterday, perfect fit.
I'll now be able to modify the stops for the centre stand because it goes too far forwards and the bike is very difficult to roll off the stand.
Paul
Thomas aus LAU
Hero member
Hi Thomas i used a bigger sleeve on the fairing end as the pipe i used is ID 38mm - its a push fit into around 7cm - holds it firm but should pull out easy enough - not taken the fairing off yet
I modified that because opening the clamps directly on the inside of the panel or on the airbox is a job for a gynecologist or internist
Thomas aus LAU
That's what everybody is telling me Clem. I sent the original plate back to Joe who intends mounting it on one of his bikes. So, we'll see if it's the plate or the frame.
Paul
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Bit of time wasting removing cast iron from the clutch sprocket. Gave the 8mm carbide drill bit a hard time on that primary sprocket!! Those holes are more about a locking tool - could have gone 8 holes but didn't want to risk overdoing it - do not want the thing collapsing under the heavy loads it will be enduring.
Thinking of removing the middle rows of teeth on both these items - is there a secret method? Cast iron clutch sprocket is easy (but messy) and carbide lathe tools won't like those intermittent teeth whacking the shaez out of them. Primary teeth are hard as - can only think mounting the angle grinder on the tool post as an option (when you don't have Red up the road
).
Thinking of removing the middle rows of teeth on both these items - is there a secret method? Cast iron clutch sprocket is easy (but messy) and carbide lathe tools won't like those intermittent teeth whacking the shaez out of them. Primary teeth are hard as - can only think mounting the angle grinder on the tool post as an option (when you don't have Red up the road
).