What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

helicopterjim said:
Polishing some fork legs today. Only -2 out so good time for outdoor work. Weird how after polishing it gets bigger ......!!!!!

Jim

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My wife caught me washing it in the shower, she was shocked, then I said
“I’ll wash it as fast as I like, thank you”

Nice job Jim
 
Laverdalothar said:
Steve, if you have an ignition installed with the pickups still there, you might run into that problem again sooner or later. I had a lengthy discussion with Uwe Witt about it and unless the pickups are PERFECTLY set and aligned, this can cause unsteady ideal which can cause issues on the starter sprag clutch. mine had even the plate broken that holds the rollers in place...

Also, if the starter sprag clutch is damaged, you might want to give the starter a service, too. Sometimes the clutch remains engaged if worn and pulls the starter with it, which results in worn contacts and bearings. I had that on my 1000 SFC... (actually found that the starter sprag clutch was worn after the starter did not want to turn the engine... Called OCT, Roger asked me how many kilometers the bike had on and recommended I bring it in for a starter clutch service/repair; saved me from another starter repair...). So - if you face starter related starting issues in the future, this might be the root cause.
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Hi Lothar,
Good advice, thanks!
I replaced the sprag clutch about 11 years ago, when I bought the bike, so was surprised when it quit so early.
I should look at the pickups, as they are original (the bike has a really old Witt). Maybe I should fit new a Witt DMC 32...
The starter should be OK, is an SJCE and relatively new. If not, I have a spare somewhere.
regards,
Steve
 
Ordered a couple of new tyres for the triple the other day so currently have bike jacked up and both wheels off ready for when they get here.
While they're off have been trying to get at all the nooks and crannies for a major clean up but haven't had any polishing luck discussed above:(
(I also have no f***ing idea how some keep everything so clean and shiny without taking everything apart after each ride............ )
 
Shajota said:
Ordered a couple of new tyres for the triple the other day so currently have bike jacked up and both wheels off ready for when they get here.
While they're off have been trying to get at all the nooks and crannies for a major clean up but haven't had any polishing luck discussed above:(
(I also have no f***ing idea how some keep everything so clean and shiny without taking everything apart after each ride............ )
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Maybe they aren't ridden much and only short distances in fair weather?

Paul
 
Took the 1200TS for a run to figure out whether an intermittent power loss had been fixed after cleaning the carbs. Ran like a dream for 100+ Kms and just as I was within 5k of home the power loss re-occurred, again intermittently. Got it home, checked the wiring to the coils, took it out again and it soon stalled and would not start - battery flat, and this a battery which is pretty new and lives on a trickle charger in the garage. Checked the amperage from the rectifier to the battery and got solid 1+ to 6+ amps when the bike is running and revved, so the alternator seems to be doing it's thing. So what is the issue - are the two linked, the flat battery and the loss of power periodically...Upshot is that the 1200 won't be going to Dalgety as it did 4 years ago; this time it'll be the Jota. :confused::rolleyes:
 
That's exactly why I love those dashboard-mounted voltage gauges, you very quickly see if you have a hidden problem before it strands you on the roadside. It's probably the Regulator but that's a guess from my experience. If it shows less than at least 13volts at cruising revs you are slowly draining the battery instead of charging it.
 
Vince said:
That's exactly why I love those dashboard-mounted voltage gauges, you very quickly see if you have a hidden problem before it strands you on the roadside. It's probably the Regulator but that's a guess from my experience. If it shows less than at least 13volts at cruising revs you are slowly draining the battery instead of charging it.
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I'm was following some advice which stated that to test whether you are getting 'good' charging current from the rectifier/regulator to measure the amperage between the rectifier/regulator's +ve output and the +of the battery...I realise this is becoming a technical thread so maybe I should post it there
 
ngiles said:
Took the 1200TS for a run to figure out whether an intermittent power loss had been fixed after cleaning the carbs. Ran like a dream for 100+ Kms and just as I was within 5k of home the power loss re-occurred, again intermittently. Got it home, checked the wiring to the coils, took it out again and it soon stalled and would not start - battery flat, and this a battery which is pretty new and lives on a trickle charger in the garage. Checked the amperage from the rectifier to the battery and got solid 1+ to 6+ amps when the bike is running and revved, so the alternator seems to be doing it's thing. So what is the issue - are the two linked, the flat battery and the loss of power periodically...Upshot is that the 1200 won't be going to Dalgety as it did 4 years ago; this time it'll be the Jota. :confused::rolleyes:
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Battery dropped a cell……..it happens, even on new batteries. Shithouse QC on gear these days☹️☹️
 
Loss of power is the electronic ignition not liking the voltage drop from the battery…… vibrations from engine at particular revs and rough roads can influence the duff battery cell shorting out intermittently!
 
Tippie said:
Always check both volts and amps. Like Vince says, voltmeter immediately shows up a problem.
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It's not clear what you're suggesting an amp check for Lee. Charging amps can vary quite a bit depending on battery condition and revs as Hooksey discovered. It doesn't really tell you much when diagnosing a charging system fault, unless there's no amps at all.

I reckon Vince is on the right track with a dash-mounted voltmeter. Even if it's just a temporary measure to troubleshoot a particular problem. It should be somewhere around 12 to 12.5V when the motor isn't running, and up to about 14V with the motor running. If it drops below 12V as you're riding along, you know immediately that it isn't charging.

If Hooksey's charging system was working ok when checked in the garage, but the battery ran flat while on a ride, then there may be an intermittent fault. Maybe vibration is affecting one of the electrical connections in the charging system as the bike is bouncing along on the road. Is the battery moving in its tray and pulling on one of its cables for example?

I had exactly that problem with my Benelli. The bloody thing ran the battery flat while out on a ride. It actually did it a couple of times, but it always checked out OK in the shed. So I went through the charging system from start to finish cleaning and tightening all connectors, re-crimping crimped connectors, making sure the battery wasn't jumping about in the tray, check that the fuse was making good contact etc. I dunno what connection was actually the culprit, but all my tweaking fixed it because the problem went away and hasn't come back. I also installed a dashboard voltmeter while I was at it, so I'll know immediately if the charging system goes AWOL again.
 
After sorting the charging issues I had on the Motodd I fitted a voltage meter for a 1000km trip to Perth and back. While riding the display was all over the shot showing anywhere from 12.9~ to 14.5~ whether at a Constance 3k or 4k rpm or hooning up and down the rev range.
That from a ZZR250 alternator to shinigen sh530 RR to Lithium battery. Now the charging system is doing what it's suppose to I'm about to remove the voltage display and it's another thing to look at and it ugly mounted on the top triple clamp.
 
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