What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

ozijotati said:
Air miles count for for us in OZ Andy, fucking long ride otherwise 😂😂
Tom
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It’s only taken a family from Somerset 4 months to get to Oz without using a plane (except for a little section at the end, otherwise they would have missed the wedding they were travelling to). And in any case, I thought you Aussies were used to long rides…😜
 
Herman bent and TIG welded some pipes for me, Wazza machined some billet alloy stuff
I machined some bar stock and we have this, very first swingarm 180 profile wheel combo on a Breganze Laverda ever
Just have to work out the rest of the set up now, looking good though for my race bikes
Rim is a 5.5", way cool for a 180 profile


180 tyre start
 
redax5 said:
Herman bent and TIG welded some pipes for me, Wazza machined some billet alloy stuff
I machined some bar stock and we have this, very first swingarm 180 profile wheel combo on a Breganze Laverda ever
Just have to work out the rest of the set up now, looking good though for my race bikes
Rim is a 5.5", way cool for a 180 profile


180 tyre start
Click to expand...
Do you need such a large disc on the rear of a race bike, or is that just what came with the wheel?

cheers,

bazzee
 
I guess it’s a bit down to breaking style. Modern brakes are so powerful that often you have to be careful you don’t face plant. I tend to think if your back end is in the air you haven’t got much control of where the bike’s going, so a bit more back brake and a bit less front helps keep both wheels planted. I suppose a comparison is when you accelerate hard and the front comes up, which tends to have the effect of you moving forward slower than if both wheels are on the ground.
However, I might be wrong and some wiz-kid scientist can prove, via some very clever formula, that a small disc on the rear, with such-an-such calliper/brake pad/master cylinder etc, is the optimum set-up.
 
bazzee said:
Do you need such a large disc on the rear of a race bike, or is that just what came with the wheel?

cheers,

bazzee
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17" x 5.5" rim makes it look large, Rotor is actually 250mm diameter

Matt was saying with the Thumb brake we run he uses the rear brake anywhere between 40% - 70% of the time around a track, depending on which track we are at with Mac Park and Broadford being the highest usage and Phillip Island being the least used due to the flowing nature of the track
Trail brakes into the corners even after front brakes are released, again on the rear brake as he accelerates out of a corner to stop the bike wheel standing, generally uses the rear brake to settle the bike
It gets a lot of use
 
Took delivery of some shiny 3C parts, back from the polishers. Spokes should be on their way from Italy soon.
Rear hub is already shiny (thanks Piet) so just the rear rim to do and we're ready to build them up.
 

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My wheels looked like that once for about 6 months. I thought about adding one of those 20mm wide leather straps loosely around the hub that pushbikes use to keep it shiny, zero chance after assembly to get a polishing finger in there, just didn't happen. About once a year mine get a solid Autosol, but slowly over time, they end up not so nice. The hub looks great without those spoke witness marks.
 
chris78jota said:
Took delivery of some shiny 3C parts, back from the polishers. Spokes should be on their way from Italy soon.
Rear hub is already shiny (thanks Piet) so just the front rim to do and we're ready to build them up.
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Couldn't you find spokes in the UK?
I wouldn't dare ride a bike that shiny.
Paul
 
chrisk said:
What callipers will you be using with the seriously thick rotors? Kenworth?
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:) observant as ever Chris. Its the cush-drive element that holds the rubbers. There are so many bits to this rear hub it weighs a ton, and is proving very expensive to overhaul.
It won't be seeing rain if I can bloody help it...
As you know Paul, the rear hub needs two types of spoke head angle. Rather than faff about trying to source them on the UK I've just requested them from Riccardo Oro. I had a free wheelbuilding tutorial on this very type of wheel the last time I visited, so I thought it only proper I should order them from him ;)
 
Cut off 103 links of M106SL and replaced the O'ring drive chain that had seen better days.
Love the smooth action and feeling of lightness of these chains. Definately more mechanically sympathetic.
To paraphrase (or bastardise) - Lighter, Stronger, Faster :cool::p
 
IWIS Rob and yep non O'Ring. The one Andychain recommended when he used to post here.
I had one on the triple for a while a number of years ago and loved it, but just went back to readily available O'Ring in recent years.
Most discussion back then was people worried about more maintenance on long rides so stayed with O'Ring, but I never found that a problem.
 
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