What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Unfortunotely I have a bare frame and I am getting ready to get the engine. It's getting the frame held securely whilst stretching the xprings with the puller I have.
In that case, it might be easier to first mount the springs to frame and center stand and then fiddle the mounting screws in. If you turn the frame upside down (hope it's still in bare state) and rest it on some foam, it should be relatively easy to do, potentially with some slight force/support from a second person...

Good advise by Andre to also mount the sidestand (if existing) also right now...
 
In that case, it might be easier to first mount the springs to frame and center stand and then fiddle the mounting screws in. If you turn the frame upside down (hope it's still in bare state) and rest it on some foam, it should be relatively easy to do, potentially with some slight force/support from a second person...

Good advise by Andre to also mount the sidestand (if existing) also right now...
That's worth a try, once I get back from the 🇮🇲🏍️🏁 (y)
 
Did you try the washer technique? If so, you might need bigger washers, or lighter springs?
Don’t forget to put the sidestand on before you fit the engine, if you haven’t already 👍
They're brand new springs supplied by Thornes or Motalia..can't remember whom off hand. Side stand is already fitted (I was bitten twice by the infernal spring).
 
Struggling to understand the problem here. Washer technique works every time for me. Bolt stand to frame. Clamp one end of the spring in the vice, bend spring to insert washer between coils and then bend t'other way to do the same (keeps the spring straight). Rinse and repeat between all coils. Fit extended springs to stand and frame. Remove washers. No skinned knuckles, no swearing!
 
After investigating the rando noise emanating from somewhere in/on my motor during my mountain shakedown ride I was pretty convinced it was the starter clutch trying to seize and destroy my starter motor. I'd had to hand grind the crank-to-freewheel taper using valve grinding paste after the errant ignition and jerking caused crank nut to loosen and said freewheel to come off and break the key a week ago. I had i thought had enough sideplay in the starter sprocket but TBH didn't give it much thought. When I checked after the 300k ride it actually had virtually no clearance. Skimmed off about 0.5mm on the lathe and took the bike out for a late night test run in the cold night air on empty roads. It appears to be cured - I'll keep an ear out before I say definitively it's cured but looking promising. Very lucky not to blow the starter motor sky high! Been there, done that many decades ago after fitting a new starter clutch and not checking the side clearance.

Bike is absolutely flying.
 
After investigating the rando noise emanating from somewhere in/on my motor during my mountain shakedown ride I was pretty convinced it was the starter clutch trying to seize and destroy my starter motor. I'd had to hand grind the crank-to-freewheel taper using valve grinding paste after the errant ignition and jerking caused crank nut to loosen and said freewheel to come off and break the key a week ago. I had i thought had enough sideplay in the starter sprocket but TBH didn't give it much thought. When I checked after the 300k ride it actually had virtually no clearance. Skimmed off about 0.5mm on the lathe and took the bike out for a late night test run in the cold night air on empty roads. It appears to be cured - I'll keep an ear out before I say definitively it's cured but looking promising. Very lucky not to blow the starter motor sky high! Been there, done that many decades ago after fitting a new starter clutch and not checking the side clearance.

Bike is absolutely flying.
You have the ear and feel for the engine which is good! I ride mine without earplugs every now and then just to make sure.
 
New speedometer cable fitted this morning to the Jota, excellent fast service from Venhill 👍 also engine oil changed using 20W/50 mineral, pity about the weather (North Yorkshire) ☔ photo from a better day under "Roseberry Topping"
Does the Venhill cable fit and function?
Paul
 
Does the Venhill cable fit and function?
Paul
Yep fitted well, following installation I couldn't get the speedometer to function spinning the front wheel by hand but by disconnecting at the drive end and using a cordless drill to drive the inner cable to achieve a faster rotation the speedometer immediately registered speed. Didn't road test due to the appalling weather!
 
Yep fitted well, following installation I couldn't get the speedometer to function spinning the front wheel by hand but by disconnecting at the drive end and using a cordless drill to drive the inner cable to achieve a faster rotation the speedometer immediately registered speed. Didn't road test due to the appalling weather!
I hope it functions when the rain stops.
Venhill hasn't got the best of reputations and they couldn't even supply a 500 clutch cable to the correct length.
Paul
 
Got back to work on my burnt 3C, Dude's old one, since I got the chrome bits back from the chromers.
Next week, I'll start on the bottom end with new gearbox bearings, a rinse of the shafts and drilling a hole in the bottom case between the gearbox and the primary case to get more oil in there.
Paul
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"Yes, Jon, all our clocks were MPH, in the UK."

not so hamish, plenty of bikes were imported new with KM clocks as the primary (or only) calibration, and that includes Slater bikes, probaby off loaded by another European dealer having cash flow problems? but many AS STANDARD did not have the MPH as primary in their speedos and that includes all, 1200TS's, Jota 120's and RGA's. take a look at the very next RGS speedo that you come accross, primary calibration?
CLEM
 
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