What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

I have a wobbly clutch lever; there is a recess around the pivot bolt that's pretty big, and I was thinking that's almost big enough to take a small bearing. With some googling, it looks like it takes a wave washer to reduce my wobble. Better check it's there, keeps me awake at night these catastrophic issues, a wobbly clutch lever is my most serious problem.
 
Dropped the old oil, last night, after I got home. Once I've finished my coffee, I'll be in the garage, dropping the exhaust to clean the strainer.
A fresh fill of Valvoline VR1 RACING SAE 20W-50 Racing Oil and it's back out there, turning petrol into noise.

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More likely turning petrol into ‘hot air ‘ down the pub 🤣
 
Made a tour with Eva my wife and my RGS to the Edersee which is quiet closeto my home, 40 ks, and we made the first sailing trip with Tante Motte ( Aunt Motte), our new sail boat. IMG_0326.jpegIMG_0327.jpeg
 
For those who haven't seen one of these, a very early steel clutch as fitted to my S.
The only anachronism is the slipper tensioner, it was a roller. Note the top chain guide.
I went in there because it had got impossibly heavy.
With a bit of coaching from Piet, I checked it all out.
Clutch itself was ok. As Piet points out, less wear prone than the alloy clutch.
A new cable better routed, a DAM kit and I found that the lever at the bars was pinched because I'd over tightened the spindle.
I now have a nice light clutch.
Paul
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Looking less and less pretty, but after passing an exam that required extensive study I feel I'm having my life back now :D
I was working on my wife's CB500 (PC32) with wonky indicators & general maintenance first as I needed the space, so I met up with my father last wednesday so my father could (and would like) do what he has been doing since 1980 or so. ;)

The 750 needed some overdue maintenance, including a new front tire that was really old and had dry cracks in it; but also valve clearance, starter coupling springs, instrument suspension o-rings, rev-counter in the engine was worn out, lube the cables, adjust the rear brake, etc. When I have swapped the tank cap & fuel taps we can start her up again and do a long overdue oil change so it's at least mechanically sound and driveable -then I'll think about the rest.

Hopefully soon and out-and-about post from me!

Jeroen
 

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In preparation for my trip to Italy for the ASI Motor Show in a couple of week’s time, I took the 3X/Baines Racing Formula for a vehicle inspection today. I’m getting the bike road registered to avoid the need for a carnet, and all the hassle that entails.
Pleased to say it passed. 😁
 

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A couple of days ago I replaced the primary chain and clutch cush rubbers on the Jota. Thought that I'd have a look at the oil strainer with my mobile phone laprascope. Poked it down the oil dipstick hole and to my delight found it, looks clean as. (See photo) Haven't removed it for over 25,000k. Looks like new. Only ever find the standard super fine black fluff on the magnetic drain plug magnet. Which is normal. Anyone ever found any metal in the strainer that was large enough to be retained by it's large mesh opening?
 

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My exhaust is such a pain to pull and refit, I haven't checked my stainer for years.
This is the strainer still inside the engine. I don't want to remove it either. Just wanted to see the inside of the jota for a look without any oil. I'm guessing that this is just a basic suction strainer for the oil pump?
 
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Apparently, yes it stops 10mm nuts from going through the pump. I change oil apox every 1500 to 2000 km. That's 3 or 4 full days riding.
 
And my 2nd question to those that know, if the static oil level is so close to the bottom of the primary drive oil hole. ( See photo) dipstick vertical, how does the primary chain,clutch, needle bearings etc get lubricated adequately?
 

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