Where best to put the Witt igniton box on a 1200 TS?

S

stevepm2011

Hero member
Location
Cologne, Germany
G'day all,

I am in the process of fitting a Witt DMC2 to the 1200 TS.
Can anyone offer advice on where best to put the box?
At the moment, I can see a few options:
Under the tailpiece - should stay dry, but no great cooling airflow, long wiring runs
On the inside of the rear mudguard -  should stay dry, but don't want to drill the mudguard (corrosion)
Up under the tank somewhere -  stays dry, but tight space, too hot for electronics.
On the inside of the  RH battery bracket - maybe not quite dry, but the Odyssey battery doesn't need the room. Probably my favourite.
The New Zealand variant: attach it to the oil cooler using no.8 fencing wire, wrap it in sheepskin to keep it dry...

Any thoughts?

regards,
Steve
 
The way I mount ignition systems on Laverdas is on a separate tray that sits across the frame rails. No drilling holes in anything and it's easy to get at the switch on the underside of the box. Done it this way on a couple of bikes. It's easy enough to make the tray out of a sheet of aluminium. Cut-outs in the two forward corners of the tray are to accommodate the rubber seat buffers.

BTW. Drilling holes in the rear mudguard won't cause it to corrode. It's stainless steel.

Cam
 

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I mount mine in a similar way to Cam's.
However, the rear of my plate is bolted under the mudguard frame support and there is a supporting bracket under the plate as well.  The Sachse ignition box is fitted to the plate with velcro.
 

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, or wrap it up in a bit of bubble wrap and just throw it under the seat.  neatly.

ok, it's an IIS but the mounting method has worked for the last 6 7 years. but i might 'av replaced the rubber band.

underMissJ.jpg

 
All,

Thanks for the advice & photos!
Brian's version is closest to what I had in mind. The Odyssey battery doesn't need the space.
Mark's is impressively straightforward!
Tom's & Cam's look nice & professional....
And all work, so it can't be that critical.
I will fit mine & post photos.

@ Cam: my rear mudguard is good old fashioned rusty Italian steel. It weighs about the same as an entire modern 125. I had the rust blasted off and powder coated it. A stainless one would be nice!

Steve
 
Nice substitute to the steel and plastic mudguard of the TS and 120 Jota was this Ducati Pantah (I think) chrome one.Staying with the standard ignition at present Steve seems to work just fine with an acid battery now :)

Shaun
 

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It took no time to make my bracket - the folds are just made in a vice with a rubber mallet and a bit of offer up and see involved - it now looks like it always lived there..
 
stevepm2011 said:
@ Cam: my rear mudguard is good old fashioned rusty Italian steel. It weighs about the same as an entire modern 125. I had the rust blasted off and powder coated it. A stainless one would be nice!
Click to expand...

have carbon fibre rear guards in stock if you wish to shed some weight

 
Dellortoman said:
I didn't know they made them in mild steel. Only ones I've seen have been stainless.
Click to expand...

I had an interesting 'conversation' with a notable Laverda man about the front guard on my Jota 120.
He assured me that all the Jota 120 front mudguards were originally stainless and that my rusty one was some sort of fake. It was rusted all of the way through, the bike was taken off the road in 1989 until it was rebuilt a couple of years ago, so I was reasonably sure it was original.
DOC?

EDIT* I fitted a stainless one, modified from a series 1 jota original to the '120' shape at the front.

The more time goes by, the more I realise that the factory used whatever they had to hand at the time that suited the purpose. Even down to the colours of the paint!
I borrowed a NOS never seen the light of day red sidepanel from Slaters for my bike to get a colour/shade match and got it pretty much spot on. But some original paint scheme Jota 120's seem darker in shade (some are almost orange with age though).
 
The front mudguard on my 120 Jota was mild steel, painted as it rusted and cracked.
The NOS replacement mudguard I got from Wolfgang was also painted mild steel.

But it was clear that the factory often used whatever was to hand at the time, or to use stocks up.
Maybe also a post Luigi-Lunchbreak syndrome.
 
Just checked the original front mudguard on my 120 jota and it is mild steel still with the original paint job which now looks orangey red compared to when I first bought it in 1982 -the red seems to lose its pigment over the years if its allowed to live a natural life, ie. ridden regularly, not stored to look at.
 
Yip my 120 front guard is steel, I was able to contact the second owner who had the bike for 19 years and he sent me some pics of the bike and can see it change from red to patchy red/ orange to orange, which I call sunburnt orange as it reminds me of a triumph splitfire colour now. 
 
Alan said:
.. which I call sunburnt orange as it reminds me of a triumph splitfire colour now. 
Click to expand...
Topaz Orange according to the faded label - I sold the spitfire close to 30 years ago but only recently threw out the paint I had mixed up for it back when..
 
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