Zane 650 sport cutting out but not dead

O

oldbiker55

New member
Location
Uk
Hi Forum
My 650 has a fault when run for a few miles.
This is what happens:-
Ignition on, dashboard OK, pump primes for about 6 seconds,
Press the stater, bike fires no problem.
Let it warm up, take it out and it runs fine until I get about 3 or 4 miles down the road when it starts to miss fire and sort of stutters to a halt.
Then turn the ignition off, leave for 30 seconds, turn it back on, pump primes, bike fires and runs again no problem for another 3 miles and fails again. This process can be repeated several times until I get home.
It feels like a fuel issue but I have not done any serious dismantling yet.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
oldbiker55
 
Probably the hose to the filter inside the oil tank having perished over time, breaking down and debris blocking the in/outlet, clearing enough once the pump stops then doing it all over again - and again. Not a fun job fitting new filter and hose but reckon that'lll be your issue.
 
Thanks for you reply. I had my suspicions it might be that or in that area. I've only had the bike for a few months and is has been off the road for a number of years.
Looks like I'll be taking the fuel system appart- all new to me.
I'll report on my findings.
 
you should only need to attend to the filter and hose - the big part of the job is getting thew tank off/out. yeah, sitting idle ... with hoses soaking in fuel will tend to perish the rubber!! Good luck with it and do report back. Is there a Zane group you can join for more specific advice on your bike?
 
piranha-bro2 said:
Probably the hose to the filter inside the oil tank having perished over time, breaking down and debris blocking the in/outlet, clearing enough once the pump stops then doing it all over again - and again. Not a fun job fitting new filter and hose but reckon that'lll be your issue.
Click to expand...
Assume "oil tank" is fuel tank? There are grades of flexible fuel lines, external and internal, for use internal the outer sheath is full time fuel grade rated, external flexible fuel line is fuel rated internal hose though external sheath is not, it is the outer sheath that can be used internal though degrades and fails in time. Had this issue on the two Suzuki FI bikes i repaired some months back. Incorrect grade of fuel hose for internal use.

3 Bar is the usual FI line pressure, garden variety fuel pumps EFP007 etc, pump to 90psi or better, the reg reduces that to the 42psi working rail. Fabricated inline fuel pressure gauge to confirm correct rail pressure, worth the effort to make certain of rail pressure, when chasing FI problems. Learned to rebuild "007" fuel pumps also when clogged or jammed along the way.
HTH j *** quickly stopped engine is usually ignition, a slowing erratic motor, fuel, as a general guide.
 
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If you’re going to the trouble of having all the gubbins out of the tank to renew pipes and filter it is worth considering fitting the fuel filter externally under the fake fuel tank cover, so it’s easier to access in the future. It also stops the thing flopping around inside the tank when the fuel level drops. One other thing to check is the side stand relay, make sure that isn’t cutting in and out. The cam sensor failing can also give similar symptoms.
 
I worked for a gentleman that had an almost new Ford Fairlane that had similar symptoms. After the Ford mechanics replaced the complete fuel system, from carburettor back, including fuel tank. The problem was rectified.

The tank was turned upside down, and out fell a gum tree leaf. It would float around and get sucked onto the pickup tube, starving the fuel system.

Not everything is as it seems. Good luck.
 
I know nothing about Zanes but worked on a GS BMW with similar symptoms. It finally stopped and wouldn’t restart. Turned out wires inside tank to pump were under strain due to settling pump mounts and no slack. Seemed to be losing connection when warm and finally gave up.
 
Pump etc out. Picture tells the story. Hoses disintegrating, rust from the pump body had clogged the mesh filters and probably wrecked the pump.
Now waiting for new parts.
Didn't need to take the tank out. Bit of a fiddle to get the pump and filter out as the hoses are like concrete. Hoping for easier re-assembly.
Keep you posted
 

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Has all the effects of external grade fuel hose being used internal, misapplication. Internal fuel hose is expensive than external appearance identical to the naked eye. Pump internal will free up if it can be partially dismantled, and mechanically moved and lubed. HTH J
 
New pump ordered, not worth taking a chance on the old one and it doesn't look like it is servicable. Plus all that that pulling appart again if it fails. Proper submersible hose ordered which is more expensive than ordinary fuel hose.
 
oldbiker55 said:
New pump ordered, not worth taking a chance on the old one and it doesn't look like it is servicable. Plus all that that pulling appart again if it fails. Proper submersible hose ordered which is more expensive than ordinary fuel hose.
Click to expand...
Prudent to use new where it is a nett gain, though have redeemed 4 pumps now, with partial disassembly ( have a very good home workshop and tooling ) matter of most effective considered rectification, one replacement pump was in excess of $300, rectified seized original remains working to this day. Granted, the pump in the photo does not appear to lend itself to rectification process of any merit.

Did on my TLR move the internal inline filter to the outside of tank, using a higher quality filter element, for just the reasons you intimate, access and improved reliability.

Not so aligned to the premise of "Rust" comment, more the matter of modern fuel soup interacting with the metal and plastic parts submerged in fuel, producing a surface adhering sediment which can produce free floating particles that contaminate filters, primary on the pump intake and the secondary post pump to fuel rail. The primary filter contamination will cause the pump cooling to reduce and possible failure, though i have not seen a thermally damaged pump yet, by way of dry running operation as the control system shuts down the pump or the motor stops working due to lack of fuel pressure. Nice workshop BTW, HTH j.
 
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If you are able to reattach the line from the output side of the filter (or pump if you relocate the filter outside the tank) to the rear of the outlet plate at the front of the tank then please share with us your technique. I've never been able to secure that piece of hose inside the tank without taking the tank out so that the outlet plate can be removed.
 
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