3c right hand side crankshaft thread badly damaged

A Zane is a Laverda which was built Zane in the late 90th after Laverda Breganze was closed. Bikes are based on the 500 engine with 668 and 750 cc, two zylinder. Zane is close to breganze an other small town.
 
if you have non matching numbers it would be interesting to know what the actual engine number is as that would give Piet and myself more info to let you know what issues you may face when stripping the engine
All models suffered different fates especially in the cylinder head as the factory kept changing the head fairly well every model
76 and 78 all alloy heads are an issue as they crack a lot, 79 heads had an issue with recessing valve seats, 80 heads had a similar issue but made worse by incorrect valve springs letting the valves bounce on the seats, 81 and 120 degree heads no major issues
 
redax5 said:
if you have non matching numbers it would be interesting to know what the actual engine number is as that would give Piet and myself more info to let you know what issues you may face when stripping the engine
All models suffered different fates especially in the cylinder head as the factory kept changing the head fairly well every model
76 and 78 all alloy heads are an issue as they crack a lot, 79 heads had an issue with recessing valve seats, 80 heads had a similar issue but made worse by incorrect valve springs letting the valves bounce on the seats, 81 and 120 degree heads no major issues
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I will look sat when I pick the bike up and post , I’m told it’s a 180 3c with 4c cams
 
Not much use viewing a new aquisition through rose-tinted glasses...

Many here have experienced the pain and expense of purchasing a supposedly "freshly overhauled, top condition, good runner, etc, etc, etc" Laverda, only to stumble from one pitfall to the next. I (Keith, Red and others as well) see it every other week when a new owner brings in his freshly aquired pride and joy after it has given up only a few days/weeks after buying. Often quoting a good portion of the purchase price, or more, only to get the bike safe and roadworthy, let alone make it a good, strong and reliable runner, brings the previously high-flying owner back to earth pretty quickly. A lick of orange and some fresh chrome has mislead many in the past, and will continue to do so in the future. Shopping for a Laverda means doing your homework first, probably more so than for most other marques.

Laverda triples generally do not dissolve themselves, if a crank end is broken off (a pic would be nice!), it has seen very serious abuse in one form or another, be it through a ham-fisted backyard bodger or having been slid down the road on its side. I can assure you, a rattle gun will not snap the crank, the nut will give up long before. In addition, it can safely be assumed there will be far more damage to be found, the crank will be only the tip of the iceberg. Hence, the comment "while you're at it".

Still don't know what engine type we're discussing here. 1981 makes it a MkII, shouldn't be a nut on the RH end anyway... homework? ;)

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
Not much use viewing a new aquisition through rose-tinted glasses...

Many here have experienced the pain and expense of purchasing a supposedly "freshly overhauled, top condition, good runner, etc, etc, etc" Laverda, only to stumble from one pitfall to the next. I (Keith, Red and others as well) see it every other week when a new owner brings in his freshly aquired pride and joy after it has given up only a few days/weeks after buying. Often quoting a good portion of the purchase price, or more, only to get the bike safe and roadworthy, let alone make it a good, strong and reliable runner, brings the previously high-flying owner back to earth pretty quickly. A lick of orange and some fresh chrome has mislead many in the past, and will continue to do so in the future. Shopping for a Laverda means doing your homework first, probably more so than for most other marques.

Laverda triples generally do not dissolve themselves, if a crank end is broken off (a pic would be nice!), it has seen very serious abuse in one form or another, be it through a ham-fisted backyard bodger or having been slid down the road on its side. I can assure you, a rattle gun will not snap the crank, the nut will give up long before. In addition, it can safely be assumed there will be far more damage to be found, the crank will be only the tip of the iceberg. Hence, the comment "while you're at it".

Still don't know what engine type we're discussing here. 1981 makes it a MkII, shouldn't be a nut on the RH end anyway... homework? ;)

piet
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Maybe I should break it and sell it as parts , there’s nothing wrong with looking at something with the ambition to restore or make something out of nothing I’ve done this before with a lot of my older restorations
 
townsend846 said:
Maybe I should break it and sell it as parts , there’s nothing wrong with looking at something with the ambition to restore or make something out of nothing I’ve done this before with a lot of my older restorations
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That's true. But absolutely nothing in your first post implied you had any experience with older bikes, Laverdas in particular. Loads of blue-eyed newbies show up here, only to be quickly disillusioned by the scope of restoring/repairing these often neglected and abused machines.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
That's true. But absolutely nothing in your first post implied you had any experience with older bikes, Laverdas in particular. Loads of blue-eyed newbies show up here, only to be quickly disillusioned by the scope of restoring/repairing these often neglected and abused machines.

piet
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It can be rather daunting, unless you like canned worms.
 
Don't forget that you are being given worst case scenarios here. There's also every chance that the bike/motor can be fettled into fine working order without massive outlays of money and stress. Post the engine number and at least that will tell you the KNOWN issues that could afflict your bike, IF the necessary rectifications haven't already been done. Then you can delve a little deeper and hopefully get a reasonable idea of what needs attention. If you are handy with spanners and have pulled plenty of motors down, you are in a much better position to save yourself on external labour. The heavy duty lifting (if required) can be farmed out to the trusted sources who can be found on here.
 
townsend846 said:
Hopefully goi to get it up on my bench at the weekend and dial gauge the crank end, if there’s a runout I’ll have to strip it .was just looking at scozia’s website and he seems to be the man for lavy cranks but he’s a long way from me in London. Would also love to know how this has happened as there’s no impact damage.
many thanks for your reply
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Hi townsend846,
Hopefully you have taken the comments so far as helpful and constructive, which is no doubt how they are intended.
Keith in Glasgow is indeed your man, he is very meticulous and knows his stuff inside out, I cannot fault the work he did for me (and I am further away - near the channel tunnel).
He loves for the owners to ride their bike home from Glasgow, which is what I did and what a lovely trip it was.
There is no way he will let a bike out of his garage that hasn't had a thorough check of everything and faults rectified, unless of course he is overruled.
 
engines come apart for all manner of reasons, but whenever I take one down, I always replace all gaskets and seals, (including valve guide seals) valve springs and piston rings/light hone as the minimum, PLUS the gear selector drum detente spring (a 50p part that costs so little, but is so hard to get at) and of course whatever you are needing to strip it for, usually there are cam chain tensioner and guide issues, as well, any chain can be done without stripping the motor, and the service intervals for them, printed in handbooks and manuals do not work for me. Special tools are needed in some areas and advisory in others, the ILOC has a tool loan scheme which includes pretty much everything (clutch plate alignment excepted ) but many manage without that! its fiddly but can be done. Do not be tempted to undo or more importantly do up the jesus nut on the crank, LHS, without the locking tool, a loosened nut can cause you to need a new left hand crank end and they are in short supply (very short) My "while you are at it" comment is very real, its seems that one always finds things that need attention, but (currently) are not impeding forward motion, it might be the valves need lapping in, or re-cutting, maybe even new seats, it's a wear thing, not a design fault, the fourth gear bush might be slack, the cams binding due to them being slighty not straight etc etc

CLEM
 
sfcpiet said:
That's true. But absolutely nothing in your first post implied you had any experience with older bikes, Laverdas in particular. Loads of blue-eyed newbies show up here, only to be quickly disillusioned by the scope of restoring/repairing these often neglected and abused machines.

piet
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Then shurely as a club administrator you would encourage a new member not shoot him down in flames
 
piranha-bro2 said:
Don't forget that you are being given worst case scenarios here. There's also every chance that the bike/motor can be fettled into fine working order without massive outlays of money and stress. Post the engine number and at least that will tell you the KNOWN issues that could afflict your bike, IF the necessary rectifications haven't already been done. Then you can delve a little deeper and hopefully get a reasonable idea of what needs attention. If you are handy with spanners and have pulled plenty of motors down, you are in a much better position to save yourself on external labour. The heavy duty lifting (if required) can be farmed out to the trusted sources who can be found on here.
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Thanks for your reply and I do understand worst case scenarios god I’ve had enough of them restoing old vintage British bikes , I pick the bike up Saturday afternoon and after going my local pub for a pint or 2 ill post engine number and photos
 
CLEMTOG said:
engines come apart for all manner of reasons, but whenever I take one down, I always replace all gaskets and seals, (including valve guide seals) valve springs and piston rings/light hone as the minimum, PLUS the gear selector drum detente spring (a 50p part that costs so little, but is so hard to get at) and of course whatever you are needing to strip it for, usually there are cam chain tensioner and guide issues, as well, any chain can be done without stripping the motor, and the service intervals for them, printed in handbooks and manuals do not work for me. Special tools are needed in some areas and advisory in others, the ILOC has a tool loan scheme which includes pretty much everything (clutch plate alignment excepted ) but many manage without that! its fiddly but can be done. Do not be tempted to undo or more importantly do up the jesus nut on the crank, LHS, without the locking tool, a loosened nut can cause you to need a new left hand crank end and they are in short supply (very short) My "while you are at it" comment is very real, its seems that one always finds things that need attention, but (currently) are not impeding forward motion, it might be the valves need lapping in, or re-cutting, maybe even new seats, it's a wear thing, not a design fault, the fourth gear bush might be slack, the cams binding due to them being slighty not straight etc etc

CLEM
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Thanks clem all good advice,and are you the fella that runs the kent laverda owners meet at the pub,if so would like to come down on a club night and meet you guys
 
Simonr501 said:
Hi townsend846,
Hopefully you have taken the comments so far as helpful and constructive, which is no doubt how they are intended.
Keith in Glasgow is indeed your man, he is very meticulous and knows his stuff inside out, I cannot fault the work he did for me (and I am further away - near the channel tunnel).
He loves for the owners to ride their bike home from Glasgow, which is what I did and what a lovely trip it was.
There is no way he will let a bike out of his garage that hasn't had a thorough check of everything and faults rectified, unless of course he is overruled.
Click to expand...
Yes thanks Simon,Keith in Scotland seems to be the man if I need crankshaft work ,I’m so hoping I can do as red said and drill and tap crank end if it all runs true and wind a bolt in and machine a suitable washer
 
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