SF1 won't select 5th

That's I good idea, I did think to cut it off with an angle grinder but is is a bit uncontrolled. If the pullers don't work I'll buy a dremmel and cut it off.

Cheers Colin
 
A dremel is better than a grinder, but still a big risk of damaging the shaft. Fine if you already had one, but if you have to buy a tool for the job I’d suggest buying the right tool, as per Clem. The set he proposed is cheap and although not great workshop quality, it will still be adequate for most bearing pull jobs that you are likely to do.
 
If you have a new bearing there with the snap ring, you can try to use the snap ring to get a grip with a normal bearing puller. I recently did so with a RH crankshaft main. I used a hose clamp to hold the legs of the puller tight and used heat (paint stripper gun) on the bearing. It gave up on what was to be my last effort, bloody tight. I haven't got any fancy tools either.
 
allways great to see someone having a go, and learning on the job, (makes me sound like an expert but I am an amateur) getting stuff done without the right tools is best left to those with lots of experience, most things can be done more than one way, the bearing splitter will work, but as always care, patience and maybe a little heat, boiling water is good, so is the paint stripper heat gun and even a propane lamp, if used with extreme caution, heat can ruin the temper/hardness of gearbox parts quite easilly, use the splitter first, if it doesnt budge with a little force, get it warm. some very thin oil, eg penetrating fluid, is also a good idea to help the slide, sort of doesnt work with the heat bit though. You will feel what is good or not.
CLEM
 
Removing the starter side main from the crank is also tricky but a bearing splitter should definitely work - it has for me, both on gearbox and crank. Once it moves even half a mm you can tighten it down again and it gets easier quickly. Of course, if you have access to a workshop hydraulic press it becomes even easier. I always use heat, just requires common sense and caution so as not to overheat where you don't want excessive heat. Tippie's tips re hose clamp on std bearing puller is also a winner - and grinding the 'feet' tangs of the puller for finer access is also a good idea - within reason ... too thin and the feet break off!
 
Tippie said:
If you have a new bearing there with the snap ring, you can try to use the snap ring to get a grip with a normal bearing puller. I recently did so with a RH crankshaft main. I used a hose clamp to hold the legs of the puller tight and used heat (paint stripper gun) on the bearing. It gave up on what was to be my last effort, bloody tight. I haven't got any fancy tools either.
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Hi Tippie, I did try the snap ring from the new bearing. It didn't work but I didn't use a hose clamp and my puller is very old and worn. I am expecting a new set of pullers today. I will try again with the new pullers and and a hose champ and some heat. If that doesn't work I'll get a bearing splitter. Toolstation is close by and they have them in stock.
 
once my friend Bodo Bergmann told me how to do. Remove the cage and the outer ring and the balls. Take two balls and weld two threaded bolts with it.
Link those parts with the outer ring to the inner ring and pull it out with a standard pull tool.
 

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Interesting technique, seems like a lot of work? I have had to pull directly on the inner race previously, usually because the bearing was so worn it fell to pieces. Wouldn’t that be simpler?
 
The issue is how to pull the inner ring if you do not have the tool and no access to grab it behind the ring. You may use this technic and link the outer ring with the balls to the inner ring and pull it out, it is easy work and works well.
 
Very good, and another method which I will store away and hopefully remember when the time comes 😉
When there is no access behind the bearing I have been known to break off the outer race on purpose, then use a bearing splitter to hold the groove of the inner race. Also works well.
All roads lead to Rome etc 😁
 
Hi Folks,

Thanks for all the great ideas. I have now managed to remove the bearing. I bought a set of 3 legged pullers and used the snap ring from the new bearing to pull on. I used a large hose clamp to hold the legs in place, tightened it all up, the puller appeared to move. Haha success I thought, but no it was the end of the puller was bending. I then bought a bearing splitter from screwfix but it was too small. I had to use 6mm studding in place of the 8mm supplied. I ground down the jaws of the bearing splitter so it would at least start to move the bearing. After a lot of grinding and hammering the bearing came free.

Thanks to all of you especially Clem who suggested the splitter. Some pictures below for your amusement.

IMG_1334.JPEGIMG_1335.JPEGIMG_1345.JPEGIMG_1346.JPEGIMG_1347.JPEG
 
Andy said:
Cor, that puller needs to be thrown back at the seller!
Apart from that, you have now started along the never-ending road of manufacturing 'special tools' ;)
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yes I will be writing a stinging review on Amazon. It was cheap but I expected it to be a bit better. I have always been a believer in necessity being the mother of invention. Although this has led to some setbacks over the years:eek:
 
ColinJ said:
yes I will be writing a stinging review on Amazon. It was cheap but I expected it to be a bit better. I have always been a believer in necessity being the mother of invention. Although this has led to some setbacks over the years:eek:
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Amazon and China go hand in hand dancing down the road to dissatisfaction. :ROFLMAO:
As always
You get what ya pay for......
 
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And the seal sleeve/spacer next to the bearing doubles the load on the puller. By the look of the rust around the place, I expect you're going a bit further on this escapade? :cool::eek:
 
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