Sag on all bikes is important if you want your suspension to work at its best and the bike to steer and turn at its best as well. It's what tells you if the bike has the correct spring rate for your weight. If after setting the sag to 1/3 of travel the bike itself unloaded sags beyond 15mm from fully up, the spring is too light or it sags less than 15mm it's too hard. That's long travel dirt bikes at 15mm, less travel roadys is a smaller dimension. Sure you can potter around on any bike set-up or not, especially if you are in the typical design range of 75 to 90kg body weight but if you ever try a bike set-up right to your weight it's amazing how different it is. Too much sag and the bike will steer slower, and take more effort to change line. Too little and it will steer quicker, maybe even be unstable, especially on bumpy corners. It's a pain in the arse but doing this is a 2 person job unless you have 2 mitre long arms. In my case with the Atlas, it sags 16mm too much in the rear now, BTW spring preload will do nothing to fix incorrect spring strength and that's effect on ride quality, in the long run, it WILL need at least a stronger spring. To early to tell if a shock will be needed as well. Here is a quick example, pre-Terry Hays setting up my modern Husky it was horrible in high-speed deep sand woops, you had to work hard not to crash poping the front up just before hitting each woop or it would try and kill you after Terry Hays you could pin it and shut your eyes. Light years better.
Atlas Questions
- Thread starter Vince
- Start date
I guess if you make a living on Utube you might be embarrassed about being Bald, my great inspiration was Andre Agassi after he pissed off the silly wig and embraced the No. 1 cut. I did the same and its very liberating to just be yourself. So today's mission was some way to get both wheels off the ground. I have a tripod type dirtbike lift but it was too high to fit under the bike and very complicated to circumcise shorter. So I did a google and found this, with wheels I hope it's good value and works as promised., love that word. It works with a 22mm socket and a rattle gun.
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Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
Those stands always look a bit precarious to me, with the bike perched up in the air. You wouldn't wanna swing a bit too hard on a spanner and bring the whole lot toppling down on yourself.
Cosi
Hero member
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- Kingscliff
He makes a living out of posting that bullshit? Crawling on his belly up the hill, Fck me…
Diablo Loco
Senior member
- Location
- Western Australia
I must say, Im very impressed with his helmet off/ hat on maneuver
After that, I couldn't take him seriously....
Yes. Where's the sense of adventure? For example, when approaching the crest one must always launch into oblivion. You know then you're truly alive (for possibly a short space of time).
Earlier I posted a link to a handlebar-mounted Navigation mini-tower. I was after somewhere to mount my phone plus a charging plug and a Volt Meter. I was looking at a similar Volt Meter to one on my 3c where I found it was overcharging, fixed with a new Regulator. So what I eventually found was a similar-sized gadget with an LED readout that also does the Time, I hate clock watching but I hate not knowing when the School Speed Zones times come into effect and the big fines that can happen, plus it displays Ambient Temperature and for $20 its a steal. The bad news is there is now a 2-month wait for stock on that Nav Tower.
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It was good to hear from one of the blokes on the last Tassie ride who had a standard Ambient Temperature display on his modern BMW that it was only 2c even with the deep snowy drifts roadside just before the TREE incident and that we were not risking Black Ice on that wet and horribly windy ride. They apparently come in handy if you ride all year.
Tippie
Hero member
- Location
- Dr?bak, Norway
A little bit misleading Vince. There can still be an almost invisible ice film on the road with a few deg above zero.It depends on the ground temperature. The ice warning in our car plings at 3 deg. At the moment here there is frozen meltwater lying all over the place despite most of the roads being dry, not motorbike conditions. I like having ambient temp gauge too, both for hot and cold extremes. That gauge is pretty neat.
DamhIk...
Crashed the Skoda into a ditch 20+ years ago. Dash thermometer showed +3°C, but the road before the intersection was like a skating rink for the last 300 metres. Doesn't help if you're at around 150km/h when you hit the ice, ABS is fucking useless...
Turned out wind chill had created the skating rink on the slightly raised road surface, despite the higher ambient temp.Vince, I have much the same instrument on the RGS, sick of watching out for church steeples with clocks when travelling (I don't wear a watch, clock on the GPS screen is too small for me to read...). Most restaurants here close their kitchens shortly after midday, if you turn up late, you go hungry. The voltmeter and thermometer features are also quite handy, not sure how accurate the voltmeter actually is though, deviates a fair bit from my Multimeter.
piet
The most annoying 2 words I hear regularly, Kitchens closed. So below 5c is the threshold. Drove to plenty of Oz Ski Resorts over the years and we don't Salt, my only Black Ice thing happened in The Perisher Resort car park wearing Ski Boots and walking to buy a lift ticket, no warning I ended up on my arse. Got up and went down again, I crawled off that Bitchamen area before I could stand up, it was like wet glass. Never seen similar in 30 years of doing that.
Dellortoman
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- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
Yep, I can vouch for that too. Some years ago, early one morning, I was riding my Jota up the Southern Outlet (a highway heading south out of Hobart - hence the name). I was heading north towards the city, gradually climbing from a couple of metres above sea level to the crest at 232m elevation, from where it descends steeply into Hobart. At about 1km south of the top (elevation around 150m I guess), cars started sliding all over the place on invisible ice. I got a bit of a sideways wiggle as the rear tyre lost traction, so I gently veered over to the narrow gravel shoulder beyond the wide sealed stopping lane. The level area of gravel was only about a foot wide in places, before it sloped off into a ditch, but that's more than enough for a motorcycle. There was good grip there, and I made it all the way to the top no problem, leaving the commuter traffic slithering all over the road behind me. I got a bit concerned about going down the other side because there was no gravel shoulder, just a kerb and a rough rock wall. I stopped when I ran out of gravel shoulder, wondering what to do. Then a bloke on a big dirt bike came up behind me, riding on the gravel shoulder as I had done. He stopped beside me and said there won't be any ice going down into the city because the morning sun is on that side of the hill. He was right. I guess he must be a regular commuter on that road, whereas it was a rare thing for me. I must have stayed overnight at a mate's place to be on that road early in the morning.
I dunno what the temperature was that morning. Temperatures below zero are pretty rare in the Hobart area, even in the depths of winter, but you can still get frost at a few deg above zero. That bit of road is in a valley where cold air settles if there's no wind.
That jacking platform lift gadget turned up today, it's pretty impressive especially the weight at 30kg. But I have a problem. It's driven by a 22mm bolt and I want to use my heavy-duty Makita Cordless to spin it up and down. It has a 1/2 inch chuck and will take the male end of a 3/8ths socket extension but not the female end, 1/2 inch extension won't fit either. I have a 22mm 1/2 inch socket but I need a very odd connection between these. I need either a 3/8th male to male or a 1/2 inch male to male or even odder 3/8ths to 1/2 inch male to male. Never seen either before so I googled it. There around on eBay, but I want it now so I rang around and got a vague confirmation from a well-known tool shop, I even know a bloke who works for them but not where I was heading. So an hour's return drive to a huge local industrial area and the 3 major players visited with zero interest shown, finger pointing to the socket wall at each and nothing. No wonder places go broke. Hardly any stock and what they did have was guess where made crap. 2 minutes on eBay and it's now on its way. So I wait a week.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
Blimey. There's gotta be a simpler solution. I/2" socket adaptors for drills are pretty common. I've got a set of these in the socket drawer of my tool cabinet. They've got them at Bunnings. I just checked on-line.
I've also seen them with a flexible joint in them.
I've also seen them with a flexible joint in them.
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Thats what the tool shop bloke said on the phone he had, but all I got when I arrived was blank stares. Not super keen on driving a big socket with a 1/4-inch drive even if it's not doing a big load. Anyway, I have a 1/2-inch male-to-male coming. Apparently, there used a lot in Toque wrenches.
Cosi
Hero member
- Location
- Kingscliff
Is it a drill or impact driver Vince? We use them all the time on impact driver 18/36 volt, the Bunnings stuff breaks after a while or you can buy hi tensile stuff From Sydney tools repco supper crap maybe, I’m not sure what sort of load your makita can handle but I’d guess you will fuck it pretty quickly trying to lift the atlas with it, air compressor rattle gun from super crap is about 50 bucks, you have a air compressor don’t you, 1/2 inch cordless rattle gun is the go but it could be a bit exy if your just using it for your bike lift
I have no idea yet what kind of load this screw-type jack stand rated to 500kg will need to lift a 200kg motorbike. They say all you need is a 300mm ratchet-type hand socket driver. My 12-volt Makita Cordless is a bloody heavy-duty one with Hammer action, way heavier than the usual 12-volt one I used all day regularly. I guess I will find out when the male-to-male socket adaptor turns up. I do have a compressor so if the cordless fails I will buy a Pneumatic one. I bought a set of crash bars for a Royal Enfield and some Pannier Racks that also need lots of cutting and shutting, so they are the next jobs happening.
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