What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Next phase in feeding clean air to the SFQ. Sure, loves an open stack or two, but I need the thing filtered for general road riding and I don't want pods straight onto the stacks (even if i could get some to fit, which would be impossible given the space under the already cut and shut frame rails). Oblong stacks are 62x67mm which I've sleeved up to take the 75mm ID flex, which connects to big 60mm ID intake DNA filters under the seat. My original silicone intake tubes were just too difficult to work with. It's a tight squeeze getting anything big in there.
 

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Fitted fuse box MkII. MkI had one power feed to spade terminal #1 then 5 loops from there to spade connectors #2-6. Now converted to one power feed and 6 outs. MUCH tidier - and more reliable (one of the loops broke due to bad fit of two wires into one spade terminal - lost my headlights on the way to the Vic Club meeting). The loops have been removed in pic 1 but they were attached to the left side of the fuses. in pic 2 the single power feed is covered by the rubber boot (a new genuine Laverda elec boot to boot!).
 

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CLEMTOG said:
you can buy 6.3mm spades specifically built to take two cables.
CLEM
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Not so easy here unfortunately - otherwise i would have bought some. Scoured the internet and from memory all the really good stuff is available in packs of 500+ and you have to be an auto elec to get an account. Basically, none of the places I found have products beyond the std spades, bullets and the like. Even the 6.3mm spades I got seem a bit bloody flimsy to me. i always used Utilux but have looked everywhere and visited various elec outlets all to no avail. They seem to have vanished from Australian shelves.

The 6 terminal vs 12 terminal fuse box is a far superior solution to my prob anyway.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
Next phase in feeding clean air to the SFQ. Sure, loves an open stack or two, but I need the thing filtered for general road riding and I don't want pods straight onto the stacks (even if i could get some to fit, which would be impossible given the space under the already cut and shut frame rails). Oblong stacks are 62x67mm which I've sleeved up to take the 75mm ID flex, which connects to big 60mm ID intake DNA filters under the seat. My original silicone intake tubes were just too difficult to work with. It's a tight squeeze getting anything big in there.
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That is what she said!!! LOL!!!
 
Interim solution while I wait for big DNAs to arrive from OS (Greece?) - been waiting 7 weeks+ for big bore gaskets from Andy Wagner so filters from Greece could be a long wait as well. Something seems to have fukt up with international shipping. Used to be very quick from UK and the Continent to Oz - getting close to 2 months is insane.

Anyways, pulled the FCRs off and checked and cleaned and made a few jetting changes. Did a late night run and I'm extremely happy to report that the bike by feel runs as well with my intake tubes and the Unifilters as it did with open stacks. Strong as buggery from 3500 all the way to 8000, which it hits very easily (still pulling hard but I'm using that as my redline - rev limiter set to 8200).

And this without having been able to resolve the issue of a retarded left cylinder (Right max adv 35 deg, Left max adv 30). It's out by around 2.5 deg at idle (base adv - can only assume the Ignitech Guzzi backing plate is off and the pickups aren't exactly 135 deg apart - half crank speed 270 crank). Doesn't explain why the discrepancy has doubled by 5000rpm. Ignitech have been able to offer zero advice on this. The Correction for cyl 2 has no effect, whther I advance the retarded cylinder or retard the advanced cylinder; even went to 10 deg cxn - zip. I've tried running cyl 2 from Adv curve 2 - that doesn't work either. I'm getting somewhat pissed off. I even set up my 2nd TCP-I4 box but still no good - gotta be either software or the Hall effect ;pickups.

Once the DNAs are on it I'll have it back on the dyno to hopefully confirm that it is actually possible to get close to the same performance with a good intake system and filters fitted as without. My dyno man Rex Wolfenden insisted it would run as rich as buggery if I fitted filters. With pods directly onto carbs I'd agree - but not with this setup.

During my midnight roll I managed to see the speed camera flash as I tootled along an empty 4-lane divided road, passing through a set of traffic lights. Broke my own rule of never exceeding the limit at controlled intersections. Silly me - probably 75 kph in a 60 zone. I'm really going to have to keep a lid on it with this beast. Far too much fun to give it the berries and far too easy to evaporate my licence.
 

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One of the reasons why I have my phone on the dash with GPS on is Speed and red light cameras. It's just so easy to forget and blow the beam. Today's ride I go past 4 just to get to the meeting spot.
 
I wish i could easily fit cruise control that is as simple to flick on and off as the one in my Skoda. It's not as if I wanted to ride at 75 in a 60 - let the revs wander 250rpm in 3rd and I'm 5kph over - too flippin' easy. The other solution is to stay the hell outa the city! Then it's mobile speed cameras and the fuzz.
 
Vince said:
One of the reasons why I have my phone on the dash with GPS on is Speed and red light cameras. It's just so easy to forget and blow the beam. Today's ride I go past 4 just to get to the meeting spot.
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No room for a tower, Vince :ROFLMAO: But seriously, I might look into it - and earphones in the helmet.
 
The phone in your pocket and earbuds connected to the phone does the wind roar and traffic alerts. You still hear the bike engine, sirens etc. BTW I almost got another even with that all working, the alert sound I chose was not unpleasant enough to get past my concentration of actually riding the bike, it's now really annoying and noticeable.
 
This is a prime example of exactly how this bullshit works. I just got a letter 5 minutes ago informing me I was caught by a camera 14 days ago exceeding the speed limit of 40kph by 7 kph that's 47kph in a 40 zone at 1.36pm so NOT a school zone just some 40k zone where I completely missed seeing any change of speed limit or fixed camera in the Sydney CBD and I now owe $128 and 1 point on my licence. That's what happens if you get lazy and don't set up and run your phone with camera alerts around where I live. Fucken bloody sucking arseholes.
 
Hey PB, long shot (in the dark…) but is it possible the pickup backplate is off centre? On a previous machine I did that on purpose to allow me to correct a disparity, perhaps the same is happening with yours in reverse? (although it sounds like the software should be able to correct it)
 
Andy said:
Hey PB, long shot (in the dark…) but is it possible the pickup backplate is off centre? On a previous machine I did that on purpose to allow me to correct a disparity, perhaps the same is happening with yours in reverse? (although it sounds like the software should be able to correct it)
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Interesting though Andy. It had actually entered my head, but I machined the backing plate on the lathe and used my indexing attachment to drill the holes so they're all concentric. And still doesn't explain why the error correction function in the software doesn't work. The Guzzi backing plate is smaller so is attached via those threaded holes in the the backing plate.

Ditto the ignitech supplied rotor with the slot for the Hall pickups - all machined on the lathe. But I might whack a dial gauge on it and check it - and put the backing plate with pickups in the lathe chuck and do same with them. It would explain a lot, particularly the doubling of the error from idle to 5,000rpm.

Also have a second complete setup for my original SF when I find time. to build it. Can check those parts as well.
 
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