regulator rectifier series 1 Laverda 1200 180

I make my own - unfortunately the SFQ managed to break about three in its first few months due to a dodgy starter clutch, high comp and a tendency to kick back if I didn't hold the revs high immediately after startup (no choke, only a few squirts from the FCR accel pump, disconnected from the throttle). Probably a tad rich in the pilot system. I need to do some fine tuning but love riding it so much and it basically runs so strongly that I've been very lax.
 
As Quentin does, i did, bought imperial woodruff keys for inclusion in the iis alternator/ignition kits, slightly oversize ( over metric ) trimmed down for best fit, FWIW.

Temptation to start a motor without the magnetic flywheel will have you well challenged to locate the flung off woodruff key, do believe that these keys obtained escape velocity and remain to this day, orbiting the planet, for i never found one on earth... a grin here. j.
 
If we changed the 4-pole magnetic rotor to an adaptation of a Japanese rotor with 12 or 18 poles, would the power be improved?
 
The peak AC voltage will not change, ( though this depends on the magnetic flux density/magnitude ) the increased frequency ( also RPM dependant ) may help with more available AC current, though you can only draw more current with increase in output voltage, which may not change with an increase in magnetic poles. Fix one problem get nothing in return, novel that one. Internal magnetic rotor diameter will be crucial, TEAG. HTH j.
 
iis_iis said:
Rob, well done re photo's. That stator plate is an early initial type, with mu-metal shielding on the reluctor pickups. What concerned me also as to what to expect from the magnetic flywheel, inducing unwanted impulse signals into the ignition timing signal chain. Actually measured the interference signals on a running motor, for the mu-metal shielded and non shielded part that followed from later production types. Becomes somewhat tedious the outcomes, of those measurements.

For others, Notice there are 4 terminals on the upper coil ( lower assembly in the photo ), that is the "regulator", feeding the diode bridge which used to catch fire, hard to imagine there was enough grunt to cause a fire, yet catch fire they did, under spec'ed diode bridge. Low PIV rating i would think, not that it matters these days......

Around the same time i designed a low loss IIS RR which was very elaborate as a prototype, did work, though expensive to produce, quickly deleted once ex Kwaka RR SH530 from wrecked learner bikes were sourced, between Redax and myself we bought every available flywheel/stator/RR kit plus usable TEK reluctor pickups across Australia. Very cost effective once Red/Maxene and myself, bought entire kits from the wreckers, RR worked out at around AU$35. Riveting.... well actually it was, drilling out the hot pressed rivits in the Kwaka flywheel.... HTH j.
Click to expand...
Iils has mentioned drilling out fly wheel rivets, just curious but that appears to have been bordering on complex engineering, does anyone recollect this procedure, what was the necessity or outcome. Thanks
 
Appears a complete misunderstanding, The doner ND magnetic flywheel as fitted to Kwaka had the drive shaft taper reverse to the inverse design by Laverda for alternator design. The rivets were removed on the ND flywheel, the flange turned around and secured.

If in reference to the bosch oem flywheel, i use them for rust "influencers" here, similar to laughingly called social media profile of the ungifted herding up the planets sheep and cattle, the many have only two legs. Have a use yet seem to be useless at the same time..... j
 
Thank you Iils for your reply, your obvious experience confirmed what I had previously only guessed. I have, for many years, been involved with bikes and have never seen a magneto flywheel with the taper positioned at the outer end of the the hub.I can’t help but wonder why Kawasaki would choose such an assembly. Enquiry over, let’s all discuss real generators again.
Cheers, Take care everyone. Grandabob.
 
The ND retro fit for the 180 series 1 motors, later implemented by Laverda, the same basic ND alternator parts for the series 2 motors, 180 and 120 crank offsets. As an iis further upgrade project, used a doner Suzuki TL series alternator parts for some 400Watts or better system using FET true phase control RR. The later RR has been implemented by very capable folk on this forum.

As you mention grandbob, topic is wide and varied, will leave it at that. j
 
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