20 50 mineral-based break in engine oil?

TeddyG

TeddyG

Hero member
Location
Portland Oregon
Not to start an oil debate, but I'm looking for the above for my 750 SF2 with brand new pistons- so far I'm having problems finding this since most in this category are either for cars, synthetic, the wrong weight, or not suitable for a wet clutch. Driven GP-1 claims it doesn't contain Moly that can damage a wet clutch, but I'm skeptical, and I'm waiting to hear back from Motul and Lucas.
Please only respond if you know of a brand- I don't want to hear your oil opinions or arguments, or off topic banter, thank you very much.
 
TeddyG said:
Not to start an oil debate, but I'm looking for the above for my 750 SF2 with brand new pistons- so far I'm having problems finding this since most in this category are either for cars, synthetic, the wrong weight, or not suitable for a wet clutch. Driven GP-1 claims it doesn't contain Moly that can damage a wet clutch, but I'm skeptical, and I'm waiting to hear back from Motul and Lucas.
Please only respond if you know of a brand- I don't want to hear your oil opinions or arguments, or off topic banter, thank you very much.
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I understand the brand 'Driven' has a good reputation with their fuel additives. Maybe contact them. See if they are worth looking into..
 
Thanks,
I’ve contacted Driven and claims it won’t affect a wet clutch and so far it’s the only choice. I want to use the proper break in oil to ensure the new piston rings seat in well. Driven recommends warming the engine to temp, dumping the oil and replacing with new break in, riding for 300 miles and then switching to synthetic. I had the previous mineral oil analyzed and was told its viscosity broke down and to use synthetic after the break in. Motor oil has advanced since 1974-
 
Teddy
I use Liqui Moly 20W 50 mineral oil in the customer engines I build, both to run them in and long term use

My race engines run on Lucas 20W 50 racing mineral oil which has added zinc
Is difficult to buy in Aussie but I don't wish to change so always find 2 x 20 liter drums somewhere for sale

Lucas is made in USA, you should be able to find it
 
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Summit racing seems to be your one stop shopping source for many break in oil options . Including total seal who I would consider to be an ultimate authority on this topic , total seal seems to offer only a 0w10 ? which totally freaks me out .
 
Break in oil is made up marketing BS. Just like oil made specifically for V twin bikes which costs more than regular oil.

In 50 years of motorcycles and more rebuilds on various types of bikes than I can remember, I have never used anything but regular motor oil and never have had problems with the pistons or rings breaking in on a rebuilt motor.

When your SF2 was built at the factory, it was shipped to the dealer with regular 20W-50 automotive motor oil in it.

I put the pistons in with everything dry. No oil on the cylinder, piston or rings. They will be coated in oil a few seconds after the bike starts.

You are looking for a solution for a problem that does not exist.
 
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Tend to agree about too much thinking going into 'breaking in' new slugs and rings. I've never pussy footed a new motor, never run anything but bog std 20/50 for initial few hundred km and made sure once the motor was warm that it gets some heavy throttle work, no low rev slogging and not to extreme in the revs department. You only have to look at race bikes - how many builders have the time or place to spend hours running a motor in ... and they aren't inclined to risk an expensive build either. Once I'm happy that the rings have bedded in I dump the oil and use an oil the name or type of which that I won't mention for fear of oil thread syndrome!

One particular oil I would never use was Castrol GTX.
 
Interesting discussion. I’ve had varying experiences over the years with varying outcomes. I’ve on some occasions religiously followed recommended running in procedures and still ended up with expensive engine rebuilds after only a few thousand miles, and on other occasions mercilessly thrashed an engine from get go and it’s stood up to all the abuse for years.
Generally, after some engine work I will fill up with some oil, sometimes with the same type as I intend to use longer term and other times with some cheap oil and just change it after 500 miles or maybe less with the cheap stuff. Doesn’t seem to have made much difference to the longevity or performance of the engine after that.
With my race/track bikes I’m changing the oil regularly anyway.
 
As I hate spending big on short-interval rebuilds, I tend to combine both ways to break in engines. First, 2 heat cycles for 20 minutes, varying engine speed to 5k with total cool-downs in between. Then a 1000 km using brisk acceleration to 5k, avoiding constant engine speeds and big hills. All this using high-grade 20W-50 mineral oil with plenty of zinc. Then an oil change, and after all that, ride it like you stole it. It's best not to dwell on what-ifs; shit is going to happen, so dont overthink it and keep your fingers crossed. I could mention a couple of disasters I had in the first 100ks, but as I said, worrying won't eliminate anything.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
Tend to agree about too much thinking going into 'breaking in' new slugs and rings. I've never pussy footed a new motor, never run anything but bog std 20/50 for initial few hundred km and made sure once the motor was warm that it gets some heavy throttle work, no low rev slogging and not to extreme in the revs department. You only have to look at race bikes - how many builders have the time or place to spend hours running a motor in ... and they aren't inclined to risk an expensive build either. Once I'm happy that the rings have bedded in I dump the oil and use an oil the name or type of which that I won't mention for fear of oil thread syndrome!

One particular oil I would never use was Castrol GTX.
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Maybe there's your 'break in oil'! Just quietly there is GTX in my engine, Shhh...
 
A friend of mine who ran an engine rebuild company that also did aircraft engines back to zero hours, explained the whole "break in" discussion as dependant on tolerances & clearances.
Whether your doing 30 mph on the road, or 330mph at 3000ft makes difference. There are no lay-bys at 3000ft !
Horses for courses as they say, but it's those small measurements that make all the difference !!
Basically you can use it like you normally would from the get go, just don't abuse it !
Over loading at low revs was an absolute "No no", along with bouncing it off the red line at the other end !
Change the oil after 500 miles & let that oil settle, so you can then have an examination for any metal particles or other debris.
But the important part is you need to try & choose an oil for how the engine is ultimately going to be used(y)
Fairly straight forward advice from a man with a life time's experience up to his elbow's in engines !!
 
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I forgot to mention, your bike left the Laverda factory with Total GTS 20W-50 in the motor. A regular petroleum based automotive oil. Not a "break in" or "motorcycle oil", just a regular 20W-50 oil the same as a car would use.
 
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1200ts said:
I put the pistons in with everything dry. No oil on the cylinder, piston or rings. They will be coated in oil a few seconds after the bike starts.
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Blimey, you're a braver man than me. That goes against pretty much everything I've read or experienced about engine building. I don't claim to be an expert engine builder, far from it. But I do know a little bit about what lubrication does and how it works. I've never heard of anybody (until now) assembling an engine bone dry and then starting it up, without having at least cranked it over without spark plugs to circulate the oil.
 
Dellortoman said:
Blimey, you're a braver man than me. That goes against pretty much everything I've read or experienced about engine building. I don't claim to be an expert engine builder, far from it. But I do know a little bit about what lubrication does and how it works. I've never heard of anybody (until now) assembling an engine bone dry and then starting it up, without having at least cranked it over without spark plugs to circulate the oil.
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The pistons, rings and cylinder are the only parts assembled dry. Everything else is oiled including the piston small end bushing. The theory being that the few seconds the motor is running before the rings see any oil, will break them in faster.
 
1200ts said:
The pistons, rings and cylinder are the only parts assembled dry. Everything else is oiled including the piston small end bushing. The theory being that the few seconds the motor is running before the rings see any oil, will break them in faster.
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😳 Clearly I’m not a mechanic or engineer, but, all those better mechanically edumacatered than me have told me otherwise.

Having said that, I get the instant breaking in theory ….. do you have trouble walking with the two bad boys you must have tucked away in your undies?
 
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