Yes, I have seen those rear stands, reminds me of using a race stand on your own, so scary to me. I am so happy you're loving it. You hear the dont meet your heroes and they're so expensive they convince the market. One day, I hope to try one. Very sensible mods that bypass real-world issues
750 dual throttle cable conversion
- Thread starter TeddyG
- Start date
The Sock
Hero member
- Location
- London, England
Last edited:
The ones that come down from behind the rear wheel require somehow holding the bike up while using the stand right behind the rear wheel. There are 2-man jobs to be sure the bike doesn't tip over. And it's the same once the bike starts. I think I remember seeing a Vincent centre stand that was in the middle of the bike but had a long vertical hand lever that swung rearward, making it incredibly easy to use.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
I don't quite get the mods on that Vincent, Hamish. I can't imagine what the rider looks like on it, legs contorted in some sort of yoga pose gone wrong, with about 2 inches between pegs and saddle!! The term 'rearset' takes on a whole new meaning when the pegs are almost on the rear axle! Is what's called 'ergonoNics'? Maybe the owner is a cross between Tyrion Lannister and Michael Jordan? A very odd thing to do to a Vincent IMHO.
That's a series D stand. I tried one last weekend. Very easy. I've picked one up for when I get old.
Paul
You can pick up a good Vincent for the price of some new cruisers.
Paul
Clem had he been with us would have told us about his old friends Vincent with 600 000 miles on it.
Paul
TeddyG
Hero member
- Location
- Portland Oregon
Problem solved for the Tomaselli Daytona dual cable throttle- the bores in the throttle body just need to be carefully drilled out @ 1/8” deeper w a 15/64 bit, which gives just enough cable slack to the carbs. it’s a well made unit and far superior to the splitter since each cable routes directly to each carb w no uneven tension from the splitter.
Now the throttle freely snaps back when released.
Since the old ignition pod wouldn’t fit I installed a small push button ignition switch next to the instruments, along with a gravity kill switch should the bike ever tip over while over while running and cause a fireball. I tried fixing the leaking gas cap with a rubber donut on the gas tank flange but it will still leak. Modern bikes come w a gravity kill switch which is a good feature (sorry Laverda purists).
Now the throttle freely snaps back when released.
Since the old ignition pod wouldn’t fit I installed a small push button ignition switch next to the instruments, along with a gravity kill switch should the bike ever tip over while over while running and cause a fireball. I tried fixing the leaking gas cap with a rubber donut on the gas tank flange but it will still leak. Modern bikes come w a gravity kill switch which is a good feature (sorry Laverda purists).
One of the local bikes had a similar ignition switch; it was a pain in the arse. If the bike stalled in traffic, you couldn't just pull the clutch in and thumb the button with your right thumb while using the throttle. You needed to put the bike in neutral and hit the button with your left hand so your right could apply the throttle. The latter was so annoying and pertinently dangerous as it had you mucking about like a dead duck. Worth a think,
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Wowza - that's quite some complication you've introduced for a perceived problem, Teddy. I hope it all comes together well for you.
Gerald
Hero member
Quentin,
I don't think that Teddy would have gone through all that if he had been able to solve the issue with a 2-1 splitter.
Had the same issue on the '71 SF. Tried alloy and plastic body splitter, routed umpty ump different ways under the tank, zip tied, just didn't work for me. Sourced some correct length SF1 throttle cables, installed dual cable throttle and never looked back.
SFC Replica Bitsa came with dual cable throttle, which has been on the bike since '86. Zero problems with carb synch.
Probably be less of an issue if the splitter was located in a rigid location ala Triple frame choke splitter.
Perhaps someone can show a pic without tank of how the bikes left the factory with 2-1 throttle splitter.
Gerald
I don't think that Teddy would have gone through all that if he had been able to solve the issue with a 2-1 splitter.
Had the same issue on the '71 SF. Tried alloy and plastic body splitter, routed umpty ump different ways under the tank, zip tied, just didn't work for me. Sourced some correct length SF1 throttle cables, installed dual cable throttle and never looked back.
SFC Replica Bitsa came with dual cable throttle, which has been on the bike since '86. Zero problems with carb synch.
Probably be less of an issue if the splitter was located in a rigid location ala Triple frame choke splitter.
Perhaps someone can show a pic without tank of how the bikes left the factory with 2-1 throttle splitter.
Gerald
I used Guzzi throttle cables on my S, with a Tomaselli twin pull.. They'll never break. You could pull a train with those.
Paul
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Good points Gerald. While I never had a prob after I went the other way (SF1 twin cable to SF2 split) I can accept that it isn't for everyone. My comment was more about relocating the starter button-kill switch. There were alternative ways to retain the ND switch shown on here. Failing that there are other narrow start-kill switchblocks that could have been squeezed in to enable use with the right hand still on the throttle. Not my bike so doesn't matter anyway.
motoddrob
Hero member
- Location
- S/W Australia
