Anybody Printing 3d Parts?
- Thread starter MotoV
- Start date
sideshow
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Here’s a comparison , I use ASA over ABS for certain jobs because everything I do is in a marine environment with humidity and UV. ABS might be easier for you to print.
Also look up Olson Ruby and see if they do a nozzle for your ender. You can get in the states a HIPS with grapheme and carbon nano tubes which you can do all sorts with. Polish it, sand, paint what ever you want. I’m waiting on my next spool to arrive. It’s sold out in europe. But plentyfull in the Us.
ASA offers high impact resistance, toughness, and weather resistance.ABS offers high impact resistance, toughness, and ease of use.
Also look up Olson Ruby and see if they do a nozzle for your ender. You can get in the states a HIPS with grapheme and carbon nano tubes which you can do all sorts with. Polish it, sand, paint what ever you want. I’m waiting on my next spool to arrive. It’s sold out in europe. But plentyfull in the Us.
ASA offers high impact resistance, toughness, and weather resistance.ABS offers high impact resistance, toughness, and ease of use.
While i can appreciate the new engineering production processes, and very clever folk using them, being a confirmed Heretic over my life time, it is a process ( 3D printing ) that will elude me. Standing in front of a vertical mill or lathe with actual metal flying around is all and more for sympathetic emotions, suppose the "printers" have the same feeling as the plastic worms and snakes upon the x-y platform.... then i did shove ( hide ) a microprocessor inside Laverda/Moto Guzzi/Ducati engine(s)... heresy in the day, the akin 3D printing for the modern persons.... the materials discussion i find illuminating. j
when my cnc mill is running I can't use my lathe, so I might as well have another machine I don't need to watch. But when I run the lathe that feeling of control is satisfying...
Since a new hot end is in my future I will make sure that it is capable of printing abrasive materials... What machine are you running?
sideshow
Hero member
Im using a Raise 3d idex dual-head printer, its smallish, and it can print 330x240 x 240 mm which is as big as I need to go. The beauty of an Idex printer is that you can print duplicate copies at the same time, or right and left handed objects at the same time side by side. I did a run of 40 top hat bushings and the left hand extruder printed 20 while the right hand extruder printed 20, which is very time efficient.
When it is time to upgrade, I will only do it, when I can get an Idex printer that prints peek. That isnt about yet. The Idex printer is really good as the extruders are completely independent. I often use them together by printing something with the shell being one material and the infill in another material.
Cosi
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- Location
- Kingscliff
It’s just easier John, diy cnc to blunt, no offence chaps I know it is more involved than that,,,
Nothing wrong with learning something new.. if you want to
That was my next guess...
What material?Here's a freebie - Carb float adjusting tool
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5587423
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5587423
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lawrence
Hero member
- Location
- Idaho, USA
Nothing there ... yet.
You may have to sign up for Thingiverse...not sure, but I did get an "end of the internet" situation...maybe try again
sideshow
Hero member
An almost 37 hour print , not long started
The screen on the printer shows nozzle temp , print bead temp , time of print , time left etc.
this is HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). Nothing like polystyrene that packages get sent in or the filling of bean bags
The screen on the printer shows nozzle temp , print bead temp , time of print , time left etc.
this is HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). Nothing like polystyrene that packages get sent in or the filling of bean bags
Attachments
I had printed out a several samples of the top half where the bulb housing goes, to get the fit right. Last night I printed the whole piece - about 4 hours. The model is not an exact copy of the original. I now have to open the middle for the wires.
I'm using PLA - Which I'm not particularly happy with...I have some bridge material under the top ledge that's hard to get rid of. I bought an enclosure to try and print the ASA. The original material is a form of rubber and I wonder if making a silicone mold would get me closer...just thinking.
I like the specs of the Raise3D printers. Do you get a finished part off the printer or is there still a lot of clean up? Do you use the second head for support structure?
I'm using PLA - Which I'm not particularly happy with...I have some bridge material under the top ledge that's hard to get rid of. I bought an enclosure to try and print the ASA. The original material is a form of rubber and I wonder if making a silicone mold would get me closer...just thinking.
I like the specs of the Raise3D printers. Do you get a finished part off the printer or is there still a lot of clean up? Do you use the second head for support structure?
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sideshow
Hero member
You could try printing in TPU, depending on the percentage of infill you use you can get a hard rubbery texture.
I do use my second print head for printing supports, mostly for supports I use PVA filament.
In regards to finished prints, yes you can get finished prints off the printer, but finished depends on if you want it painted or not. With some supports that are printed, you almost always need to do post-processing work. Even with 3 d printed metal, there is actually a larger amount of work required.
It really takes a lot of experimentation to get prints just right, and when you start with a new material it's a new learning curve. Sometimes you can get lucky, sometimes you need to do multiple prints with a lot of tweaks to get it just right
before you buy an expensive machine, make sure you are ok with putting all that money into it, putting 4-5 K into a printer is great if you are cashed up, but it can leave you pissed off if it doesn't end up working for you. Prints still fail no matter how much your machine is worth, expensive machines just give better resolution and a few more functions
On the subject, you may find this interesting;
Protiq are a subsidiary of Phoenix Contact, those in the electrical/electronic world will be familiar with them. A few years ago, they invested millions in a high-tech 3D printing facility with the ability to take peoples 3D files uploaded online, quote and manufacture in a number of materials from plastics, to ceramics, through to metals. It's a really good system. How cost effective it is though, depends on the availability/cost of the parts!
Protiq are a subsidiary of Phoenix Contact, those in the electrical/electronic world will be familiar with them. A few years ago, they invested millions in a high-tech 3D printing facility with the ability to take peoples 3D files uploaded online, quote and manufacture in a number of materials from plastics, to ceramics, through to metals. It's a really good system. How cost effective it is though, depends on the availability/cost of the parts!
My first ASA print was not good...it appears to have started fine but warped and came off the bed. I've made a bunch of changes and we'll see how #2 goes. I'm heading out to help a friend with a Laverda build so before I leave I'm printing a short part to see if the changes help. The part finished and it is much improved but still have some tweaking - gap between infill and perimeter... I must say that there are a lot of online resources to help with the tweaking, however without a lot of changes I went from a part that was unrecognizable to an item that could be used.
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There are a variety of companies 3D printing. I had some parts done before I knew I could refine STL files and they came out s***ty. I think the support is better these days, fortunately the parts I had made didn't cost an arm and a leg...Many places have free online quoting and I tried a metal printed part ... it was almost 7 kilobux for the short signal stem shown above 8-(
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