Atlas Questions

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Greetings
Markus
 

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That's great, I was hoping they didnt go much higher than the luggage rack making another boot catcher. The bike really needs a grab handle back there to move it about like most modern Dirtbikes, you only have the rear plastic guard to grab now on mine.
 
Time for another screeching halt to proceedings. I thought I could just drill some clearance in the finned clamps, nope they are well-bent and don't fit at all. There is a recess in the back of the clamp that allowed the thickening ring on the header to recess into it and pull it up snug to the head, years ago I remember Keith saying it's not good to have these touch the head but they should be close to work right. Mine are so bent that cannot happen so the finned clamp will sit a good 5mm and more away from the head and not conduct head away. I have reached out to get a couple of Reds bilit finned clamps but that will take time to arrive. Buggar.
 
The saga continues, I tried to get a couple of Reds Bilet finned clamps like I have on my 3c, there are pretty sweet but they have too big a hole as there mainly designed for big bore headers. I tried to straighten mine by shimming them in a vice but no chance of moving that 10mm thick alloy, so at Red's suggestion I headed down to my Aluminium welders to attempt to press them straight, there is a possibility to snap them but I won't be worse off trying to do this. If they snap I hope Piet has them in stock.
 
Early on after getting the bike, I did a fork bounce while wheeling it about and felt some fork knock, so I thought loose steering head bearing. Today I was checking how much meat the brake pads have, plenty there, and noticed the bike has a fully floating front disc. I am now thinking that knock was floating disc play in the bobbins. They things you miss seeing right in front of you.
 
Vince said:
The saga continues, I tried to get a couple of Reds Bilet finned clamps like I have on my 3c, there are pretty sweet but they have too big a hole as there mainly designed for big bore headers. I tried to straighten mine by shimming them in a vice but no chance of moving that 10mm thick alloy, so at Red's suggestion I headed down to my Aluminium welders to attempt to press them straight, there is a possibility to snap them but I won't be worse off trying to do this. If they snap I hope Piet has them in stock.
Click to expand...
I had some seriously warped exhaust clamps on my SF2 that I put a new exhaust on recently. To the point that they were bottoming against the head and had the mounting problems you describe with the studs not going through easily.
I skimmed the clamps flat in the lathe and all's well.

Obviously, they're less beefy, but I think that they'll last another couple of decades yet.

Paul
 
I am keen to keep the finned clamps to dissipate as much heat as possible with all day running in summer I expect that's a good thing to do. Those alloy finned clamps are pretty bulky and I expect would absorb heat a lot. Anyway, I will know by tomorrow morning if the straightening works, the shop doing it closes for Christmas at Lunch time. Fingers crossed it works, if not no Atlas riding till I get replacements. Paul my clamps have a circular recess in their back that allows them to get really close but not touch the head, my OCD has me trying to utilise the way they were designed to get the best result. I am pretty anal with my bikes.
 
Hey vince,
If I was in your situation Id go for a ride or a drive and go and see Yogi.
As you know he has two of those bikes, probably some spares, and probably knows quite a bit about them.
He's only about an hour up the road and would no doubt love to see you.

Just a thought.

Cheers.
 
I texted him after it arrived, he has a Dosier on them that he is lending me to get printed. It's way too close to Christmas to go blundering in so I will wait a bit to head up to his place. Who knows I might ride the Atlas up there. It's a difficult time of year for a lot of people so it's best to travel softly.
 
Finaly after 4 days, well my days aren't very long, the exhaust is on. It fought me to the last. The Aluminium Welder, actually a Toolmaker straighten the finned clamp very well. But they still only went into the recces on the clamp on one side cocking the clamps off square a bit. That was ok but the real pain was the inner left side stud was a good 3mm shorter than the other 3, it didn't look like it was cut either and it didn't allow the nut to get a grip, so I tried winding it out, no chance and I wasn't snapping it in the process. Not having the finned clamp slide into the header pipe ring completely made it too thick by 3mm, the approx thickness of a new copper O ring. The only thing left to do was use one of the flattened used copper O rings and push the finned clamp over to off square as possible and that allowed JUST enough thread sticking out to get both nuts on. What a Fuck around. The rest was typical exhaust stuff, thankfully Malcome had allowed enough room to have the CAST, crazy Ha a cast collector for the 2 into 1 bit, to move back to get it onto the headers. Lots of slow tightening and banging on lumps of timber and an hour later it all fits finally. BTW I lightly greased all the joints to allow them to slide together a bit. I hope I NEVER have to do it again, maybe. So 30 minutes more assembly and tomorrow I will try starting it and do a ride around the block, hopefully. BTW if anyone else has to do it, make sure you get the finned clamps to recess fully or it won't be worth even trying. The best fix would be mounting these clamps in a 4-jaw chuck and making slightly more clearance in the outer edge of the recess, they must be flat as well. Reds crankcase oil draining plate with incorporated Magnetic oil draining bolt just arrived, it's just so SEXY. I wonder what Chris K would make of it, it kinda resembles . Well, I better not go there.
 
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I couldn't wait, I just tried to start it. It has fuel from the taps, it has spark from the right plug but Nard in the firing. Not even a pop. I tried Either as well. Nothing happening other than strong spinning over, and what I think is the starter relay started smoking a bit and was very hot. So time to stop fiddling. So I think it sat at Andy's for a good while, I think but I don't know if it had fuel in the float bowl for that time, and it's been on a boat for 2 months with zero fuel in it. I might wait a while for it to cool that relay and try again, might try knocking the carb a bit, the float might be stuck, wishful thinking as it didn't overflow. I have no idea where to start with that Dual Throat Delordo, doesn't even look like it has a float bowl.
 
These black gadget with the 2 thick cables is what got hot. One goes to the battery and the other cable goes into the engine around what looks like the starter motor. If its a starter Relay why would there be 2 cables?DSCN0477.JPG
 
Hello Vince,

4 wires go to your starter relay (the 2 thin wires control the coil, 2 thick wires supply the starter) - see the wiring diagram on the relay.
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Caution - very high currents flow when starting, both through the relay and through the starter motor - both become warm/hot!
So do not try to start the engine for too long at a time.

Engine turns with starter motor, ignition works, but engine does not start:

Open the air filter box and remove the air filter, then spray brake cleaner from a spray can into the air filter box, preferably during the starting process.
You will see that this will revive tired engines.

Regards
Markus
 
Hello Vince,
I let all my motorbikes with carburettors "run dry", i.e. if I don't expect to use them for more than 2 weeks, I close the petrol tap while driving to the garage and let the engine run out of petrol.
BUT I don't do that with the Atlas any more, because once the Dellorto car carburettors were "dry" it took what felt like an eternity for the Atlas to run clean again!
Regards
Markus
 
Hi Markus, I tried the spray into the airbox, we have a product in Oz called Start You Bastard, Ether in a can. A Godsend for Lawn Mowers. It did nothing which surprised me A LOT. I will delve deeper tomorrow. I managed to pull a High Tension lead and added a spark plug to the right side with the tank still on the bike and it sparked but that doesn't mean the plugs in the bike are firing. I just had a look in the parts book and it's not mentioned, what spark plugs are standard, NGK B8es? Its been sitting around so I expect its blocked Idle jets.
 
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