Atlas Questions

The only issue I had was a 6.35mm wide sprocket was machining a groove in the output shaft much faster than a 9.5mm wide sprocket would. I have no problems with the 520 apart from that. As you say if the DPO had machined the sprocket at the chain circumference (as they did on the wheel sprocket) then it would not have made any difference.
Plate sprockets will be readily available at an engineering supply company and a machine shop will bore and drill it to the original specs.
 
Did I read somewhere here that 500 twins have had issues in the past with their countershaft and that sprocket fitment destroyed the spline?
 
AJ said:
The only issue I had was a 6.35mm wide sprocket was machining a groove in the output shaft much faster than a 9.5mm wide sprocket would. I have no problems with the 520 apart from that. As you say if the DPO had machined the sprocket at the chain circumference (as they did on the wheel sprocket) then it would not have made any difference.
Plate sprockets will be readily available at an engineering supply company and a machine shop will bore and drill it to the original specs.
Click to expand...
Gotrcha. Yeah, a 520 width sprocket on the 530 shaft would definitely be a bad idea. I found it quite easy to get my Lav 530 down to 520 using the angle grinder in the lathe technique.
 

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I ground mine at a right angle going back and forth. Lathe set at slowest speed running in reverse. Shaped the curve holding the angle grinder by hand using a flap disc. Great result
 
I am interested in running a tank bag and as both, the ones I have are magnetic and obviously won't work on the Acerbis plastic tank the Atlas has plus the bag needs to be not your typical flat-bottomed bag, the tank is hugely tulip-shaped plus it needs to be a strap on, it's a bit of a search. Another issue is the tank cap breather hose is badly in the way. The fix for that is Acerbis makes a lockable replacement cap with a built-in breather that doesn't need a hose. While checking out the local distributor's stock I also found these. Pretty handy to fix the easily blocked idle jet issue I have had, filters down to 40 microns. It sits under the fuel cap.

 
Tank bag sounds like a pain, what about soft panniers? If you can get a pair that fit nice and tight. I’ve seen tank panniers too, not sure how good they are but Andy Strapz has some.
 
The tank has a bad shape for a bag especially if standing, it's really heavily humped with a cap and breather hose right in its middle but without a bag, it's really well shaped for comfort. Probably better than my 3c which is a bit wide at the knees. But I am so used to having one and there so handy. I just need to find one big enough to take my usual crap, water and a hat being the most important in summer plus the new big phone battery I now have, it's about as big as a typical phone but twice as thick and probably 3 or 4 times the weight. But not too big as to get in the way of riding the bike. Handy as that needs a cable to the phone so a tail bag is out. I have a couple of options, Bagster made a few and so does SW- Motech but I need to physically try them on the bike for such a specialised fit. I have some soft panniers but they will rub the plastic, I have a set of semi-hard SW-Motech panners already but the mounts, that will also work for my soft bags are being modified to fit. I was trying to make these fit both my 3c and the Atlas, but the Atlas has a massive muffler on one side and that would be a huge compromise causing them on the 3c to sit way out and look really stupid. So there going Atlas only for now. BTW they don't look as odd as they do on this bike in the video, they blend in well. I got them cheap on an end-of-model runout special.

 
I have had a persistent weep from one of my fuel taps, the way they mount is there is a metal spigit from the tank that takes another spigit and between these is a cavity that takes a rubber O ring. I have replaced this on both sides with the correct fuel-resistant O ring type. This second spigot is what the tap screws to. I keep nipping both of these up, it stays dry for a day or two and then weeps again. I will be draining the tank again, it's the 3rd time and adding some fuel-resistant gasket goo. But what a need to know is whether it is worth using thread tape as well. This weep is so tiny it's hard to see where it's weeping from but leaving it with the tap closed for a couple of days has the whole thing including the hose wet with fuel to the touch.
 
Vince,
Plastic tank? Could be leaking from where the threaded insert is supposed to be bonded to the tank. Had this with my CZ tank, I fit a large washer gooped with gasket goo to span gap between insert and plastic. Not pretty but does the job.
IMG_2766.JPG
 
I am fully over this weeping and will go with belts and braces next time. That's why I was asking about thread tape. Good luck with yours as well.
 
One of the Victorians is a Plumber and a good while ago I asked this question before and got a thumbs down but don't remember why. Like I said this will be attempt 3 with a lot of nipping up as well, it's bloody annoying. I will go with the big washer like in the pic as well.
 
Hey Vince. I've tried thread tape in exactly the same application (plastic fuel tank on my Benelli 900 Sei). I used the yellow gas and oil resistant variety, but it only made things worse. Actually, I'm not even sure if that yellow tape is fuel resistant.

The tape is some kind of Teflon material so it's quite slippery. Even when used sparingly, it bulks up the thread on the spigot and tends to stretch out the diameter of the plastic thread in the tank, making the fitting less secure. When you try to tighten it, it'll just jump the threads, which is not helped by the slipperyness of the stuff. Feels like a stripped thread.

I ended up putting a fuel resistant Loctite thread lock/sealer on the threads. It fixed the problem. It hasn't leaked a drop since then. You can get it in a little 6ml tube that won't damage your bank account. Ebay link bellow. I think the cost is less now than when I bought it about 10 years ago.

www.ebay.com.au

Loctite Master Pipe Thread Sealant 1050 KPA Hi Temp Fuel Resistant 6ml 56707 30079340567079 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Loctite Master Pipe Thread Sealant 1050 KPA Hi Temp Fuel Resistant 6ml 56707 at the best online prices at eBay!
www.ebay.com.au
 
I drained the tank and pulled the bits and found a broken brand new O ring. The face of the tank where it sits has a bit of a sharp raised edge so maybe it cut as it tightened. The manual after its translation called this O ring a Gasket OR 2075. I tried googling that and found a few references including Helicopter fuel seal and countershaft seal on Go Carts but no sizes. This O ring I recently bought are black and apparently pretty close to as good as Vitron for fuel resistance and even better at being less permanently compressible. I will replace it AGAIN with the same and coat it with Loctite MR 5923 Aviation grade Gasket sealer that's fuel resistant and cross my bloody fingers AGAIN.
 
Tef tape is no good with petroleum.......as Cam has indicated, plenty of Loctite products suited for the job!

Or i might have some Litharge and Glicerene in the shed..........now that would sort it :cool:
:LOL:
 
So I now assume the leak is from the bottom of the tank not from the connection between the fuel tap and the spigot exiting the tank, so I guessed wrong. Therefore, the thread sealant option does seem a more likely solution to the problem. Hope it works.
 
Dellortoman said:
Showing your age there Hooksey. I have some hemp and Hawkins in my shed. I dig it out when thread tape doesn't work on galvanised pipe fittings.
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Nah just started young mate....... my boss was in his twilight years and stuck in his ways!
i was the go to for mixing up a good paste, many a splice (pine lime) were consumed to obtain a good stirring stick :p..........little did i know, the other fellas just didnt want to be licking lead off their fingers whilst eating their lunch :oops:
:oops:
 
I went for a big drive around Sydney looking for Atlas bits, I want a fuel cap without a breather hose and was hoping an Aserbus lockable one would work as I thought I had seen that the tank was made by them. I was taking my cap to check it fitted BUT before I left I was looking at the cap and it had this written inside. FRAMA Bologna 122010 interesting. So after a 90-minute drive, the local Aserbus bloke says not there's. I needed to go get fuel tap O rings anyway. So I did some googling when I got home and found that FRAMA is a huge company making fuel tank caps for thousands of cars and tractors including Lambo and Ferrari. I tried searching but that part number and Laverda didn't click. So I finally found their email and hope they have what I want.
 
Is it possible to get rid of the hose spigot on your existing cap and fit a vent valve in its place? Something low profile like this:


Alternatively, and possibly a better solution for use with a tank bag (so you don't get liquid fuel venting underneath your bag): Chop off the hose spigot and plug the hole in the cap, then fit a vent valve with a 90° hose spigot in the tank itself, forward of the cap (link below). It might offend the rivet counters though.

shop.newton-equipment.com

Tank Mount Roll Over Valve, 7/16”UNF X Ø5.0MM (Horizontal)

TANK MOUNT ROLL OVER VENT VALVE, 7/16” X Ø5.0MM END FITTINGS. Colour - Silver, Red or Black Product Number - Silver CF-AA-029 (thv45), Red CF-AA-026, Black CF-AA-041 Weight - 11.5g View Full Specification PDF Please note: Pictures are for illustration purposes only and some etchings may vary.
shop.newton-equipment.com shop.newton-equipment.com
 
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